944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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'83 944 V8 LT-1 swap

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Post  laptop_geek on Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:01 pm

Doing a little looking online. Anyone know if I can buy just one set of rings (or ideally just one ring)? All I'm finding is a set for all 8 cylinders. I'd like to avoid that if possible.
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Post  cfgioja on Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:23 pm

The only way I know you could do that is if you had a set and needed them to replace a messed up part. You could always go to your local auto store and swap a ring and return the set but thats just crooked, not that it stops people form doing it everyday.
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Post  944-LT1 on Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:25 pm

Personally, I would just lightly hone it out. A 3 stoned honing tool from autozone is pretty cheap. With a honing tool, youre not gonna take off much at all....its pretty safe. All you want to do is take away any ridge that the scrape left. You can still see cross-hatching within the scrape so its not that bad. If you ran your finger nail across the scrape, can you feel any ridge?

As far as one ring... youd have the best luck with NAPA. They sold me one ring for a 1962 MGA once and thats a rare part to have at all.

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Post  laptop_geek on Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:14 pm

Thanks for the advice LT1. We have a NAPA warehouse here in town so I'll stop by there and check it out tomorrow. Yes I can feel a ridge when I run my finger across the scrape. I do have a hone. I'll get that done then get back with some pictures.

After looking up on NAPA's website here's what I found.

Piston Ring (Single Cylinder)

Thanks for the tip. Its even the same one (same part number even) as the one that I have.
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Post  laptop_geek on Sun Jan 30, 2011 12:29 am

Well after a little honing I got it to look like this. The ridge is gone and all that is left are two little dips. I don't think I want to go much past this though because it is starting to affect my piston ring gap. It doesn't seem too be as bad as it looks. More good news is I can take back the Harmonic Pulley installer I got on loan from autozone (ended up not being able to use it anyway) and that'll be about $65 back.

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Post  944-LT1 on Sun Jan 30, 2011 1:52 am

It'll be fine. Go ahead and finish her up!

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Post  bluehellfire666 on Sun Jan 30, 2011 8:26 am

yeah you'll be fine, my motor had a couple of light scratches like that, the also looked worse than they were...and i'm not burning any oil anymore (after replacing the valve seals that is!)
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Post  ALFAPU on Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:22 am

Don't do it!!!!!

1) If you can feel the scratch or if it catches on your fingernail, it's too deep.

2) The crosshatch pattern of your honed cylinder is too shallow, you need an "X" pattern between 20*-30* in relation to the deck (or ~45* to each other). Your cylinder appears to have an extremely shallow crosshatch pattern which means your new rings are going to bounce off the cylinder walls with each stroke and will never seat properly. BTW, too steep of a crosshatch pattern and your rings will pump oil up the cylinder walls.

I recently rebuilt my LT1 and since my pistons were perfect and the cylinder walls were pretty good, I honed the cylinders then used .05 over piston rings from Total Seal (part number CR6264 5)

At the very least you will need to use a ball type cylinder hone with lots of lubricant so that you can get the proper crosshatch pattern on your cylinder. Otherwise you will always have problems with that cylinder and will eventually have to tear the motor apart to fix it right.

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Post  laptop_geek on Sun Jan 30, 2011 4:48 pm

I did notice that my cross hatch wasn't very good. I'll go fix that today.
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Post  laptop_geek on Mon Jan 31, 2011 5:28 pm

Cleaned up the intake a little bit. Just used a soft wire brush on a drill. I'll probably end up painting it once its all said and done, but first I've got to find a way to clean those corners. I've also got some new rings on the way. I had to special order them, hope they get here soon.

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Post  laptop_geek on Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:17 pm

Got the scratch all fixed up and the piston back in. NAPA had to special order the rings, then couldn't fine any. So after much looking I found them at summitracing.com. Ended up being $36 after shipping.

After I got that done I was putting it back together and could only find one of the connecting rod bolts. So I spent a day looking for that. My mom finally found it (shes pretty good at finding lost tools/parts).

I got the heads on yesterday with the help of my girlfriend. She also cleaned the intake and water pump. So as it turns out she's pretty handy to have around. Today I got the push rods and rockers in. With every day its getting closer!

My parents have also sold our house with in the past week. So I now have two months to get this in the car, after that I have only limited access to a shop lift. If I need one I know people who have offered to let me use one. However I can't leave the car over night, and hauling the car isn't much of an option as the trailer is moving with my parents down to LA. I'm hoping I'll have the time to work on this with school and everything. I'm thinking if I can get it set in the car for the last time I should be fine. I'll probably take it to a shop to get the muffler work done, unless I can find a better solution that I can do myself. The wiring should be easy enough to do so I'll probably leave that till later. Any ideas or suggestions are always helpful. I'll get some pictures of the engine up later.

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Post  laptop_geek on Sat Feb 12, 2011 6:14 pm

I just took the old girl out for a spin. It'll be the last time before the new engine is in. Got some videos of the engine for when I sell it. Hopefully I'll start pulling it out soon!
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Post  laptop_geek on Fri Mar 11, 2011 1:24 am

Alright, time for an update and some pictures. Got the engine out early this week. All went well with the pull, and I noticed that the PO did take good care of it and replaced whatever went bad with good quality parts (has a good SACHS clutch, new looking timing/balance belts, ect). That made me very happy. Got all the clutch parts in, now I just hope they will all go in with out too much trouble. The UPS guy has been here every day or every other day for the past week. He asked me what I needed all the parts for and I told him about the swap. He seemed very interested and said he'd like to see it after its done.

Now some pics of the pull.

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I also got the stock oil pan cut up and welded back together. Thankfully my little brother was able to do all the welding so it came out well. Still got to do the final leak test, then I'm going to finish sealing it up with some high temp sealer, get it painted and on the engine. If all works out okay I might write up a quick how to if anyone is interested. Here's the pics from that.

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I got my engine upright from Eric at TPC early this week and they look/fit great (without the engine in the car anyway). I test fit the engine to the cross member, then tossed on the long tubes to get an early idea of what will need modified. They fit better than I expected them too, but they will still need major modifications. I can see right now that they will need to be moved out of the way of the a-arm, need to be pulled closer to the block, and might need to be angled so they set in the tunnel a little better (kinda thinking of doing what eric did with his headers for the LS engines). I'm to solve the clearance problem by moving them closer together (in the tunnel).

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Got most of the clutch work done. All of it is fitting together pretty well. Last thing to do is make the pilot bearing adapter. I found a new pilot bearing at NAPA and am going in the morning (well, later in the morning) to pick one up while looking at apartments. Just a note, for those of us who don't have a mill and need to cut the reliefs in the bellhousing. An angle grinder works wonders. Best thing is after the wheel fills up with aluminum dust and it wont cut anymore you just throw it away and use a different one (I only used one cutting the bellhousing). You might also be able to make the changes to the HTOB in the same manner, I used a bench grinder however. I wish I would have thought about this earlier because now I have to try and clean some of the dust out of the wheels on the bench grinder.

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I think thats all I have for now. I'd like to try and test fit the engine tomorrow just too drool at it in there. But I do have a few more things to get out before its ready to go in for good. I've got my little brother working on cutting the brake booster adapter out and will post up some pics and a drawing if all goes well.

Couple questions.

1) Any idea how to get the A/C lines out from the car? Looks like it goes back into the firewall and I don't want to have to tear the whole dash apart to get them out.

2) Do I need to reinforce the firewall in any way or will the brake booster adapter plate be enough?

Sorry for the long post. I've been meaning to post earlier in the week but haven't got a good chance. Also, if some of my spelling/grammar is off please forgive me. Its late and I'll fix it later if I need to.

Behold the mighty SBC!!!

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Post  Admin on Fri Mar 11, 2011 7:14 am

Everything looks good, although I don't think your headers are going to be any good to you. They look to be wrong in all the right places! Shocked

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Post  laptop_geek on Fri Mar 11, 2011 9:48 am

Admin wrote:Everything looks good, although I don't think your headers are going to be any good to you. They look to be wrong in all the right places! Shocked

They're gonna be fun! But I think I can pull it off. I'm still kinda deciding how I'm going to go about moding these headers, any ideas are very welcome. That's really the next thing I'm going to dive into. But (hopefully) that will be the hardest part of the swap and after that's done it should just get easier from there. After I get the engine in I'll drive it and start looking at suspension and brake stuff.

And guess what! Its 9:48, hope thats good luck!
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Post  laptop_geek on Sat Mar 12, 2011 9:32 pm

Ahh, well I tried putting everything together but the bellhousing doesn't cover my pressure plate! I've got about an inch to an inch and a half before it will even think about it. I'll get some pictures posted tonight. Any ideas on what I should do? Anyone else had this problem? I'm using a flywheel from JEGS, and a PP/clutch from autozone (same brand anyway). I'm using the 11 inch/168T set up.
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Post  laptop_geek on Sat Mar 12, 2011 9:49 pm

As promised.

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If I use the manual bellhousing will this take care of the problem or do I need to move down to a 10.5" set up?
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Post  laptop_geek on Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:44 pm

After doing some research I think I'll be able to use the Manual bellhousing and keep my clutch set up.

Got the engine in for a first test fit today. Here are some pictures.

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Here is the passangers side. Looks like I'll have plenty of room here.

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This is the drivers side. I might have to do some more work here. I'll remove the A/C hoses and I might have to massage the frame a little to make get everything to fit comfortably. We'll see I guess.

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This is where the torque tube engages the pilot bearing. It doesn't look like I have full engagement. I guess I'll have to see if I can move the TT further forward.

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Everything looks good underneath. Nothing that is binding so far and plenty of room everywhere.

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Here is the modded oil pan. Fits quite nicely. I'll probably repaint it after I take it out.

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Let me know what you guys think. I'd love some more feedback. Always good to get others opinions. One question. Do you guys normally put the bellhousing in, then the engine/clutch, or put the bellhousing on the engine first? Looks like the second would be easier while putting in the engine, but that one bolt on the upper left and side of the bellhousing looks like its gonna be a PITA trying to put in. I tried setting it in with the bellhousing on first, but was having some problems getting it to fit (needed a 1/4" or so more room). I was putting the engine in from the top, is this how most of you go about it? Sorry for the stupid questions, just wondering what the easiest thing to do is.
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Post  xschop on Fri Mar 18, 2011 6:57 pm

Your TT shaft can stay put (no rear coupler notching) if you put in a 15x35x14 pilot bearing and ensure that the clutch disc splines are a few mm's over the TT splines when bolted up. You can do this off the car by measuring the flywheel face to crank face height. Then measure the Clutch disc face (flywheel side) to rear spline distance. Add these two dims, they should be 2-3mm larger than the crank/flywheel face to the begging of the spline dimension.

The 2-3mm overage is critical because as your clutch disc wears the splines will move forwards towards engine and off the tt splines.
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Post  Admin on Fri Mar 18, 2011 8:11 pm

Install the bell housing in the car then install the motor with the clutch assembly on it. Why not use the 153 tooth flywheel and a 10 1/2" clutch assembly? I had problems with the stock transmission staying together rather than the clutch slipping. 10 1/2" works for tons of drag racers!

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Post  laptop_geek on Fri Mar 18, 2011 10:41 pm

xschop wrote:Your TT shaft can stay put (no rear coupler notching) if you put in a 15x35x14 pilot bearing and ensure that the clutch disc splines are a few mm's over the TT splines when bolted up. You can do this off the car by measuring the flywheel face to crank face height. Then measure the Clutch disc face (flywheel side) to rear spline distance. Add these two dims, they should be 2-3mm larger than the crank/flywheel face to the begging of the spline dimension.

The 2-3mm overage is critical because as your clutch disc wears the splines will move forwards towards engine and off the tt splines.

Hmm, Now that we've caught the TT wear issue would you recommend using the LS style pilot bearing adapter because its longer by 0.4". Seems like if I were making/buying a pilot bearing adapter and using the larger pilot bearing I would want to make/buy the longer adapter.

Admin wrote:Install the bell housing in the car then install the motor with the clutch assembly on it. Why not use the 153 tooth flywheel and a 10 1/2" clutch assembly? I had problems with the stock transmission staying together rather than the clutch slipping. 10 1/2" works for tons of drag racers!

Yes, I realize this. In all honesty the 11" set up was cheaper and I figured why not? Guess that's what I get for going with the cheaper of the two rather than with what I need.
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Post  Admin on Sat Mar 19, 2011 9:49 am

I thought you were installing an LT1 in your car? Shocked
You have to use the adapter that was made for your motor , you can't interchange the two, Use what is designed for your car........
How can the 11" parts be cheaper than the 10 1/2" parts? Especially when you have to keep buying more parts to make that work.

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Post  laptop_geek on Sat Mar 19, 2011 1:40 pm

Admin wrote:I thought you were installing an LT1 in your car? Shocked
You have to use the adapter that was made for your motor , you can't interchange the two, Use what is designed for your car........
How can the 11" parts be cheaper than the 10 1/2" parts? Especially when you have to keep buying more parts to make that work.

You're correct, but since xschop suggested using a longer pilot bearing and that was just a thought.

Don't ask me. If this bellhousing would have worked I would have saved money doing this. Now I'm breaking even with the 10.5" set up, and I'll have a two piece bellhousing. Not too bad of a deal.

Unfortunately I'm moving this week so this project will come to a halt until I get settled down and get a shop set up. I'm not too worried about the wiring or the plumbing. I'm not looking forward to these headers though. We'll have to see what happens.
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Post  laptop_geek on Sat May 21, 2011 12:14 pm

This is why rice must never be allowed to be near our cars.

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Post  laptop_geek on Sat May 21, 2011 12:25 pm

Getting back up and working on this project. I moved back in early April and then had finals and now I've started a new job, so I haven't had much time to devote to this project lately.

Question, have you guys been keeping the crossover tube on the back of the heads? Its hard to see in the pictures I've been looking at.
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