944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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944-LT1
cfgioja
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Post  Jim7 Sun Sep 19, 2010 4:37 pm

I couldn't think of a better title. I think I got the brakes, suspension, driveline right and yesterday mated the LS to the car. However even after modding the oil pan to the point the crank almost rakes the bottom I still don't have clearance between the the LS6 intake and TB to the hood and so I'm resigned to do something I didn't want to do. That is put a bubble in the hood, that or drop the crossmember, and I like that even less.

On the bright side. This past Wednesday at a lap day at Mosport I had the opportunity of riding along in a 7 litre ZO6 and I was blown away with the adhesion and acceleration. Folks familiar with my project suggested taking notes because thats where my project is going. Anyway nice to be back.

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Post  cfgioja Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:01 pm

I know that dropping 1/2" on the cross member seems scary, but what is the reason you dont want to? cant you just build the suspension to compensate for the body lift in the end?

I am not knocking your idea I just was wondering the reasoning?

Buldging the hood wont be a breeze, but it can open up a new way of getting a clean air induction.
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Post  944-LT1 Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:13 pm

Welcome Jim! Where ya been?!?!

Whats the clearance between the oil pan and the crossmember? I had to cut my uprights and reweld them. As is, they caused the clearance to be close to an inch point five. So, after cutting them, I got the clearance down to 1/4".

Then, I spaced the crossmember down 1/2". Now, the throttle body clears nicely; but not my fuel rail covers. Laughing Also, check that the drivetrain is not sloutching back by checking the angle of the CV joints and the tbas on the torque tube and torsion tube. I noticed while mocking up my uprights that when I jacked up only the front of the car, the drivetrain slouched back on the soft tranny mount causing the engine to sit higher due to that angle difference on the uprights.




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Post  spence Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:19 pm

Mosport in Bowmanville? You're from Ontario?
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Post  Admin Sun Sep 19, 2010 8:09 pm

Which oil pan are you using? If you are using the Moroso, you have to space the cross member down 1/2" and then you throttle body might still need a slight grinding to get the clearance we like to see.
If you are using the moroso pan and you think you don't have to space the cross member down, Well you've been miss informed.

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Post  Porch Sun Sep 19, 2010 10:02 pm

A friend of mine has an LS7 c6 Z06. I'm sorry to say that my car will never be half the car that it is. :/
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Post  Admin Mon Sep 20, 2010 7:24 am

Maybe he meant to say "Wouldn't cost half as much" !

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Post  Jim7 Mon Sep 20, 2010 8:03 am

Thanks for the advice. First, I'm in Burlington Ontario. The oil pan started as a Moroso and I channeled it down at the crossover to 1.75". The clearance issue as I see it is steering box and the rack mounting points. At this point I have a 1/2" between the OP and the crossmember. As far as the hood, I can probably remove a piece of the centre brace on the hood and that will find an inch of clearance. As far as dropping the crossmember I believe i'd also have drop the rear control arm mounts too?

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Post  cfgioja Mon Sep 20, 2010 8:15 am

Alot of us have dropped the front crossmember and havent had to deal with the rear. But I know the rear can be adjusted without dropping. Talk to Eric/ Admin. He is doing alot of these conversions for people through Texas Performance Concepts and he has alot of experience piling up for it.
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Post  Jim7 Mon Sep 20, 2010 8:20 am

How does dropping the crossmember affect the steering rod. Doesn't that have to grow to equal the distance of the drop? EDIT. I have custom control arms with spherical joints and a custom castor blocks and there's no give to them so if I drop the member then so goes the rear mounts. No big deal though.

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Post  cfgioja Mon Sep 20, 2010 12:34 pm

As far as the steering rod goes, it still fits, It wont go anywhere once you have the cross member back in place. I drove about 200 miles and it didnt move.

I dont know how the custom front will affect the rear. Thats beyond my knowledge.
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Post  Porch Mon Sep 20, 2010 5:35 pm

I don't think it's possible (read: reasonable) to NOT drop the crossmember. The throttle body would be .5" up into the hood at the least. You would have to put a bulge on the front of the hood, and cut all of the structure from the front center of the hood.

The back of the car doesn't require any changes for dropping the front. You're welcome to reinvent the wheel, but the crossmember drop is pretty much required if you ask me.
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Post  Jim7 Mon Sep 20, 2010 6:20 pm

I had a good look at the problem today and I agree the crossmember has to come down. Right about now I'm patting myself on the back for going to the tubular control arms with heim joints. I have the engine suspended on a brace I had from the 944 days and tomorrow I'll cut some spacers to discover how low it's gotta go.

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Post  cfgioja Mon Sep 20, 2010 6:47 pm

the kits all come with 1/2" spacers, are you going to try and keep below that or you just cutting 1/2"
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Post  Porch Mon Sep 20, 2010 8:55 pm

I made this modification to make up for the 1/2 drop:

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Pretty easy to do, except for the welding part (that cost me $50).
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Post  Jim7 Mon Sep 20, 2010 9:36 pm

Thanks, Im having a problem placing what I'm looking at.

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Post  subterfuge Mon Sep 20, 2010 10:38 pm

That is the lower corner of the crossmember, the hole is where the front of the control arm attaches.
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Post  Jim7 Tue Sep 21, 2010 8:07 am

Got it.

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