944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Post  subterfuge on Sun Sep 19, 2010 4:09 pm

It has been a long time coming. I am on my 4th 944. I actually got my 3rd, an 88 NA, with the intention of doing a V8 swap. After much conversing with 944-LT1, I was convinced I could do this, and not have to sell a child. When I got the 88 NA, it had 250k on the broken odo, somehow it ended up lasting another 3 years. In the mean time it was salvaged due to a blind pizza delivery boy. The DMV managed to lose the new title, my inspections, smog cert, etc. After the nightmare that it was to get it registered last year, when they told me they had no record of it being registered since 07 this year, I was pretty bummed.

I bought an LT1 (84k miles, 4 bolt main from a 94 corvette) in the spring, with the help of my tax refund. My original plan was to use a 5.3 truck engine, but I found out that is not allowed in CA. You also cannot use an older engine than the car you are putting it in, and you have to migrate the entire emissions system. For this reason, the 94-95 LT1 was going to be the most economical and easiest, since I am doing this myself (a big thanks to Dawgz for the the knowledge). I decided to to write the 88 NA off. I'll pull my manual rack and stereo and use the wheels. When I started looking for rollers, I knew I wanted either a turbo or 968- I figured I might as well get the more robust brakes and suspension right off the bat, so I can put off those upgrades, at least while I get it running.

I found a decent mileage turbo- 97k. It had a nos system installed, which made me a little wary. After looking at it, I saw it needed paint, but the body was OK, not perfect. I liked the color, diamond blue metallic, and it had an all black interior... it took me 4 tries to get one with a black interior. I bought the car in August, I've been shooting pics of the progress. I decided to start this thread now that the main removal is complete.

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Status as of 8/21/10. The cam tower, intake manifold, and head were in the back of the car when I got it.

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A 13mm bolt was sucked into the turbo at some point.

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Status as of 9/1/10. Got everything out of the front.

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Pile of stuff I got off that day, V2 Rocket came to help a bit, too. Removed fans, sway bars, etc.

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Status as of 9/15/10. Exhaust and everything else on the sides is removed/detached, the exhaust bolts were fused. Some just had to be broken. Others were the wrong size. Talk about frustrating. Also removed the brake MC. The farthest line from the firewall broke right at the MC, the line must have fused with the bolt.

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Removed 9/15

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Status as of 9/18, AM. Everything that is necessary for engine removal but the bolts on the bellhousing and the bolts on the crossmember have been removed. The radiator, intercooler, header panel, oil cooler are gone.

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Removed 9/18, AM

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Status 9/18, PM. The old engine is out. I still need to get rid of the brake booster, and figure out which hoses and and wires can be removed. I wanted to get as much out at once as possible, so I dropped the engine with the crossmember attached. Used the engine hoist to lower the old engine to the ground, then lifted the front of the car up with the hoist and slid the engine out from below.

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Next up, lots of cleaning. I have a feeling my 2 older sons are going to be helping quite a bit.


Last edited by subterfuge on Mon Sep 20, 2010 1:06 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : clarity)
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Post  cfgioja on Sun Sep 19, 2010 4:58 pm

Thats is the easiest part of it all. Depending on how you want to do it you can strip the bay and paint it now or wait until you get it all laid out and then strip it and paint. But keep us posted.
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Post  944-LT1 on Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:05 pm

Great start! Youll be amazed how clean you can get that engine bay. Paul just camped out in the middle of the bay with a box-o-rags and some cleaner and made it look new. Im in love with this stuff called "Simple Green." It says to dilute it, but I just go with it as is. Laughing Decent scrub brush and this stuff will kill all grease....then let it sit, spray it off, and..... wow.




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Post  modenas on Sun Sep 19, 2010 7:39 pm

cn do the same with mean green, twice as strong, and best work i seen cleaning motor with massive amounts of grease
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Post  subterfuge on Mon Sep 20, 2010 12:02 am

You can see a part of a bottle of simple green in one of the pics, along with some other orange degreaser.

I don't think I am going to bother with painting the engine bay right now. I am going to get it clean, strip the underside of the hood, etc, but paint is a ways off.


Last edited by subterfuge on Mon Sep 20, 2010 1:07 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  948 on Mon Sep 20, 2010 12:09 pm

You'll probably find that the paint is in quite good condition under all that grime. As Michael said: I was able to get the shine back with just simple green, a few rags and several different sized brushes.....
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Post  xschop on Mon Sep 20, 2010 12:19 pm

For the tough baked-on grease on aluminum parts, I use Dollar store "Oven-Off" then shoot with water after it sets awhile....
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Post  firehawk67 on Tue Oct 05, 2010 3:03 pm

Save yourself some time and headaches and replace the Optispark while the engine is out of the car and there is virtually no coolant in the engine. Those things aren't too receptive to water.

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Post  subterfuge on Tue Oct 05, 2010 5:39 pm

replace the Optispark while the engine is out of the car


Thanks for the tip, will do-
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Post  Dawgz83948 on Tue Oct 05, 2010 6:07 pm

Yes, and if you never want to replace another optispark again get the MSD opti. 4 years and 0 issues.
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Post  Porch on Wed Oct 06, 2010 12:23 pm

Looks great!
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Post  firehawk67 on Thu Oct 07, 2010 7:33 am

I forgot to mention to replace the waterpump as well. It's cheap insurance since they are pretty inexpensive. You don't want one to go out considering the weep hole pours coolant directly onto the Optispark. Found that out the hard way. Laughing

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Post  Porch on Thu Oct 07, 2010 9:40 am

Yeah--a NEW (GM) waterpump and a NEW (or aftermarket) optispark is the way to go.
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Post  subterfuge on Thu Oct 07, 2010 3:09 pm

Thanks guys. Looks like I'll have some time this Saturday to finish cleanup- as well as I am going to anyway. I had visions of a eat your dinner out of the engine bay clean, but... I just don't like cleaning that much. Still have to get the brake booster out. In the old days I would have done it the hard way (like with my master cylinder replacement), but this time I just decided to save the time up front and removed the drivers seat.

I found a source for my EGR tube and all the smog/AIR equip- the guys I got the engine from in the first place. They are called vettepros, they post stuff on ebay from time to time.
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Post  944-LT1 on Thu Oct 07, 2010 3:24 pm

...but this time I just decided to save the time up front and removed the drivers seat.

Laughing Exactly. Work smarter not harder! Plus, you may find some cool things under the seat like money, keys, or a funky new species of mold! Laughing

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Post  subterfuge on Thu Oct 07, 2010 3:27 pm

No kidding- in fact, the PO must have used the space between the tunnel and seat as his piggy bank, I found about $8.00 in quarters down there.

DAWGZ: I can't find the thread, but I'll bet they have the manifolds you are looking for. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
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Post  Dawgz83948 on Thu Oct 07, 2010 4:40 pm

Thanks, I found a Vette fuel rail already.
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Post  subterfuge on Thu Oct 21, 2010 3:24 am

Finally got around to getting a few things done. I got the brake booster out. I also removed the manual rack from my 88NA and cleaned it up. It fits perfectly in the Texas Performance tubular crossmember- at first I was a little nervous that the intermediate shaft was going to hit the upright, but there is plenty of room. I did realize that I messed up by not sending Eric the whole tie rod assembly- the manual tie rods have a different connector, but I didn't realize it was the wrong one until I pulled them off of the rack tonight. I am hoping he can figure out a solution for me.

Rack in TPC crossmember
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intermediate shaft clearance
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Doh!
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Eric, you've got a PM on the way!
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