944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Tubular cross member update

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money pit 951
fliermike45
Jim7
oldbiff
Hiroller
zeusrotty
modenas
mmacias2
RedHardTop
cfgioja
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Tubular cross member update Empty Tubular cross member update

Post  Admin Mon Mar 22, 2010 3:51 pm

I just finished the first of many LSx tubular cross member. This is the final version that uses the standard set back plates. The next version will use a different set back plate to clear the AC compressor. Should have it done by the end of the week. Prices will be posted on my website by the end of the week. You guy's can thank Samsdad for being the first to purchase/ push me to get this done........... Yes this will allow the use of the stock Camaro oil pan, Corvette pan has not been test fit yet....
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Post  joeytoad83 Mon Mar 22, 2010 3:57 pm

looks great.

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Post  Luke714 Mon Mar 22, 2010 4:35 pm

Sweet! Shocked

nice job, what's the joint in the middle of that straight piece for? Or is that not a straight piece.
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Post  Admin Mon Mar 22, 2010 4:36 pm

Not a totally straight piece.

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Post  cfgioja Mon Mar 22, 2010 6:58 pm

that looks nice. On those uprights, will having a two support interfere with any of the lines?

I know you were saying that you are making one to fit the A/c and stuff. Just curious.
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Post  Admin Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:45 pm

Tons of clearance,

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Post  RedHardTop Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:54 pm

Nice work. I will be interested in the LS1 version. Thanks.

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Post  mmacias2 Mon Mar 29, 2010 3:35 pm

any update on pricing for the ls1 versions? i could not find it on the website

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Post  modenas Fri Nov 05, 2010 10:47 pm

i dont want to bring this back from the dead, but does this let you use the 5.3 truck pan?
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Post  Admin Fri Nov 05, 2010 10:53 pm

I have not test fit it with one, I have only used the Camaro pan. Check the front pan depth dimensions and see if they are close to the Camaro pans.
It's not a dead issue, It's just on the back burner, Business has my attention in other areas at the moment. I have a new engine mount and set back plate design that I am working on, I want those to be finished first then I'll re work the cross members.

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Tubular cross member update Empty LS1 cross member with AC

Post  RedHardTop Mon Nov 08, 2010 11:16 am

Still interested in the LS1 cross member with AC.


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Post  zeusrotty Fri May 24, 2013 3:03 pm

Me too.

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Post  Hiroller Fri May 24, 2013 9:34 pm

It's been 3 years since you started this thread, have you tested the crossmember with anything other than the Camero pan? Are the crossmembers available for purchase? The more I look at my 85/1 the more I think it's time for a Corvette LS1! I also have a C5 Corvette that I love. It's been in the paint shop all week and I hope to have it back by this time next week. Driving it, experiencing the power of the LS1, I can only imagine how much better my 944 would be if I had one in it. I've already got the 944 in my garage on 4 jackstands doing other work, It is a perfect time to drop the NA 4 cylinder in favor of 5.7 liters of american muscle.

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Tubular cross member update Empty wouyld like one too

Post  oldbiff Wed Jul 03, 2013 12:03 pm

Need to know how to get one of these crossmembers.

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Tubular cross member update Empty Suspension tuning

Post  Jim7 Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:14 pm

Reading up on old posts on 'bump steer' worried me and I dug a bit deeper. There's lots of info on the 'net' on this subject.  There's more to bumpsteer than the angle of the tie rod though.  The references to keep in mind are, 'centre of gravity', 'roll centre', and 'bump steer'.   Lowering the crossmember and slamming the suspension will lengthen the roll centre and will cause positive toe on the inside wheel on turn in and unless the springs are stupid hard, as in no suspension travel.  Very bad, and it can hurt you. What will happen is a very twitchy car that on the road will make it very exciting and possible uncontrollable.  The fix for that, apparently, because I didn't do it yet is to re-locate the A arm mounting point a distance equal to the thickness of the crossmember spacers.  The best I got to fit the engine was 1/2" spacers so my plan is to drill holes at least 1/2" higher up on the cross member to get the A arm parallel to the ground, and that's the goal of a tuned McPherson Strut suspension. The final part will be lowering the Tie Rod ends to be parallel to the A arm. That is my best understanding of the problem and the solution.

EDIT: subject covered (search) , (drill crossmember)


Last edited by Jim7 on Fri Jul 05, 2013 10:59 am; edited 1 time in total

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Post  Admin Fri Jul 05, 2013 7:41 am

You need to read more post , That has been done

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Post  fliermike45 Fri Jul 05, 2013 9:43 am

.


Last edited by fliermike45 on Sun Jul 14, 2013 7:19 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  Jim7 Fri Jul 05, 2013 12:39 pm

Excellent.  I hadn't searched 'crossmember', but now I found the references. Thanks, another load off my tired brain.

EDIT: I like those adjuster blocks. Great idea, simple and robust.

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Post  money pit 951 Wed Jul 10, 2013 11:37 pm

You do realize that those blocks aren't going to fix anything related to bump steer, right? Those tie rods could be U shaped or a figure eight, the physical points of the steering system haven't moved. Bump steer has only to do with the the relation of the inner and outer tie rods in relation to the A arm.

fliermike45 wrote:As Admin states, it's all been covered in detail before on this site. Here is a pic of xschops adjuster blocks.


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Tubular cross member update Empty Thrown for a loop

Post  Gutterboy Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:14 am

K that last post really throws a newb like me for a loop. After reading many threads with the advanced search I am at a loss for finding a consensus on how to fix the bump steer issue.

It would be nice to know whether I need the adjuster blocks from xschop to get the a arms parallel again or if I need an aftermarket crossmember which seems to be a work in progress with Eric or if something needs to be done with the tie rods as per the last post.

What's the latest greatest bolt on fix for this or is it the classic 'it depends on what you're going for and what you are trying to do with the car'. My application is street only but I don't want scary steering and handling when I go to push it a bit.

If it's truly something with tie rods what does bothering to get the a arms parallel again after crossmember spacer'ing do other than possibly prevent early failure due to the angle?

Totally lost even after all the digging in this forum. pale 

I look forward to your responses so that the last question mark on the shopping list can be finalized. Very Happy 
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Post  Admin Thu Jul 11, 2013 7:41 am


It's not a work in progress, It's been done and is no long being done.
So think about something else......
To fix bump steer you install a bump steer kit......Shocked 

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Post  fliermike45 Thu Jul 11, 2013 9:36 am

.


Last edited by fliermike45 on Sun Jul 14, 2013 7:21 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  Jim7 Thu Jul 11, 2013 10:32 am

fliermike45 wrote:Now I'm confused, U/Figure 8 tie rods???

My cross member has been lowered 3/4", the A arm inner pivots have been raised 3/4" thus i assume that the A arms are now in the stock position.
Doing this has lowered the steering rack by 3/4", to keep the tie rods at the correct position with respect to the ball joints I used xschops blocks along with early 944 tie rod ends.

I would welcome a sensible explanation as to why this will not work for road use. I can see that the racers may want an adjustable set up to get optimum handling.

We're on the same page and I'm confused too. AFAIK if the control arms and the tie rods are parallel that would eliminate a bump steer bias caused by lowering the crossmember. Because as you write the A arms are re-located back to the original height by re-drilling and the tie rod blocks compensate for the lowered rack everything would again be parallel. What am I missing?

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Post  Rich L. Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:49 pm

I think moneypit is right. Even if the rod is parallel again with a step in it from that block, the arc traced by it is still centered at the pivot point at the rack. Bump steer occurs when that pivot point is not aligned with the pivot point of the a-arms.

That said, bump steer isn't the end of the world, especially on the street. And if you stiffen up the springs, reducing suspension travel, the effect is minimized.

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Post  948inVA Thu Jul 11, 2013 3:27 pm

Just keep your crossmember at the stock height.  On my car the spacers were not needed.. I just trimmed the hood brace and filed down the hump on the top of the throttle body.  

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