944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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BMW M62B44

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BMW M62B44 Empty BMW M62B44

Post  reclaimer Sat Feb 13, 2010 3:39 pm

Started the conversion on New Years weekend, pulled engine from parts car and stripped out everything that looked like it might be in the way.
My progress will be slow on this, I'm old enough to know better, guess I'm just trying to recapture some of my youth.

Anyway, first snag to overcome, flywheel bolts. I need to find something that used a M12x1.5x36-40mm internal drive flywheel bolt. Trying to find triplesquare or something like it to reduce the size of the relief cuts in the 951 flywheel. Pictures of my sort of button clutch flywheel are in my gallery.

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Post  reclaimer Thu Feb 18, 2010 10:01 pm

I thought mating a BMW automatic flywheel to a Porsche manual flywheel was a bit of a pain, but bolting it to the crankshaft turned out to be the larger problem.
Finally got some bolts I can use, not what I wanted, but they'll work... with a little grinding. Now, on to the next small problem, pulling the Porsche torque tube from the parts car to make a plate so it can be bolted to the BMW bellhousing.

reclaimer

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Post  robstah Fri Feb 19, 2010 12:12 am

All I can say is good luck with the tuning. I would have headed this way (was actually thinking of a turbo M42B18), but not only is that beyond an insult to Porsche (German rival's motor in their chassis?) but tuning and a lot more custom work would be involved. Not only that, but I am looking for low end torque, which the M42 would have brought a reliable, but close to identical powerband to the original motor. The M62s seem to have a decent amount of torque, but no where near what a chevy V8 can bring to the table, not to mention cheap mods and the likes.

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Post  reclaimer Sat Feb 20, 2010 7:29 pm

Pulled the torque tube from the parts car this morning, figured it would be much easier to work with that way. Bolted the rear suspension back in with only a couple of bolts on each side so it could be pushed back out of the shop. This is starting to turn into work. LOL

reclaimer

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Post  v2rocket Sun Jun 27, 2010 8:16 pm

a BMW v8, many times ive walked past those in parts yards thinking "if only"...are you doing this is a 924/944 or a 928?

v2rocket

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Post  a951 Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:37 am

cool swap, pics?

a951

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Post  reclaimer Wed Jun 30, 2010 11:20 am

V2, I'm using a late 944 to work all the mounts and what not, then I'll bolt it into an early 944 which is my daily driver.
a951, there's a couple of pictures in my gallery but it's not much to look at.

reclaimer

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Post  v2rocket Wed Jun 30, 2010 12:21 pm

i didnt think that the M62 would fit, DOHC i thought it was too wide

v2rocket

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Post  xschop Wed Jun 30, 2010 12:32 pm

Will the starter clear the footwell? and how does the Throttle body look near the hood line?


I like how it looks in there.... It looks shorter longitudinally...If MattB can get the Ford DOHC in this car, then the Beemer looks like cake.
xschop
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Post  reclaimer Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:26 pm

It's not cake, far from it. Lubrication will have to be dry sump because of the huge front sump and chain driven oil pump... hood clearance is still to be determined. Just depends on how my oil pan turns out, as in how flat I can make the pan and still get the oil out. I have no intention of moving the suspension/cross member.
All in all, I feel the exhaust is going to be the most time consuming, but it's far enough down the road that I try not to think about it.

reclaimer

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Post  v2rocket Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:48 am

how big is this engine physically? length/width/height? i am considering a dohc as well...

v2rocket

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Post  reclaimer Mon Oct 11, 2010 5:31 pm

v2, there's a couple of pictures of the engine lowered into the engine bay in my gallery. It's tight, barely a finger's width between the heads and body structure.
Weight... It's not heavy, but I can't tell you the actual weight. I won't know the real numbers until the car is scaled after it's in. My guess is around 350, it's a simple design and all aluminum.
Regardless, I would not recommend this engine. The mods needed to get it to work is going to be extensive. Exhaust manifolds will have to be built from scratch and lubrication will have to be dry sump. I personally do not care for GM, but you will not beat the dollar/power/physical size of an LS series engine. Plus, the guys on this site have already solved or resolved any fitment issues.


Last edited by reclaimer on Mon Oct 11, 2010 5:32 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : spelling)

reclaimer

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Post  xschop Mon Oct 11, 2010 8:55 pm

You know you can do surgery to the strut towers and get more room there. Do you have a pic of the pan?
Also the BH on that engine looks to have the tranny input concentric to the Pilot bearing and the 944 TT flange is smaller than the tranny centering bore= easier to build adapter plate.
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Post  v2rocket Mon Oct 11, 2010 10:15 pm

xschop - how much material do you think i could take off the strut towers without affecting structure?

v2rocket

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Post  xschop Mon Oct 11, 2010 10:41 pm

They can be chopped and re-boxed with the same gauge sheet metal. I even welded thicker gauge sheet to the frame rails and I welded to the towers without blow thru. You could notch an inch or two and get more DOHC motors in the fofo. After running the pushrod V8, I wouldn't do OHC unless the powerplant were FREE and tuning didn't cost you a ROTH acct. Shocked
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Post  reclaimer Tue Oct 12, 2010 11:56 am

Bell housing is from an automatic and the hole is concentric, BMW pilot bearing has same input shaft diameter as 944.
To get the engine as far back as possible, I'm going to shorten the torque tube housing and re-index the flange. The actual shaft requires no mods and when inserted the correct depth in the pilot bearing leaves the driver side cylinder head very close to the firewall.
I did have to machine the holes, but the 951 flywheel has the same number of bolt holes as the BMW. After lightening the flywheel, I stacked the 951 manual flywheel onto the BMW flex plate.
I then cut the center part from a 944 bell housing and machined away everything but the clutch fork shaft holders. This piece sandwiches a simple aluminum adapter plate that bolts to the bell housing. Machined lips and steps on the plate centers everything.
This setup uses all the stock 951 clutch, pressure plate and release bearing. Factory rated horsepower of the BMW engine was just under 300 horses. I don't drive like a teenager, so it should hold just fine.

reclaimer

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Post  xschop Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:19 pm

So after all that you are going to use a puller pressure plate and clutch fork like the factory 951?
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Post  reclaimer Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:03 pm

Yeah, it fits nicely, external hydraulics and no stack height or alignment issues. Besides, BMW uses a heavy dual mass manual flywheel.

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Post  xschop Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:22 pm

I bet there is a lightweight Fidanza flywheel out there that could be modded to fit. Twisted Evil
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Post  reclaimer Wed Nov 02, 2011 5:10 pm

Finally got in the mood to work on this again, I've had the torque tube standing on end beside my tool box for the past year.
Anyway, I sold the engine from the parts car quiet a while back... now I need a measurement that I can't get without pulling the engine from my daily driver.

If anyone still has their Porsche engine and could take a measurement for me, it would be much appreciated.
I need the distance from the flywheel friction surface to the release bearing guide tube mounting surface.
Alternately, as long as it's from the friction surface, any point from something in that area would do just as well. like the clutch fork rod or the surface the torque tube bolts to.

I've figured out where I think it should be based on wear and witness marks on a couple of release bearing guide tubes... I'd just like to be sure before I cut any more material off my adapter plate. It's kind of tough to put all those little curly pieces back on.

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Post  Marky522 Thu Nov 03, 2011 10:35 pm

Hey man, awesome project! Your not far from me at all, im in Fuqay Varina, It would be great to check out your car some time!

Mark

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Post  reclaimer Fri Nov 04, 2011 11:30 am

Mark, you are welcome to anytime, but honestly, there's nothing to see at this point.
I have a parts car behind the shop that I'm using as my guinea pig... it looks like any other old ratty parts car. My daily driver is completely stock... and it looks like any other old ratty daily driver. LOL

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Post  reclaimer Sat Nov 12, 2011 6:44 pm

Well, my daily driver was due for belts... again. Freaking timing belt that's only good for three years. Anyway, flogged it hard today. Pulled everything down and replaced the belts and a front cam seal. Then got the measurement I needed so I could finish up my adapter plate.
Should anyone else ever need this... for whatever reason. the distance from the torque tube mounting surface of the bellhousing to the flywheel mounting surface of the crankshaft is 5.781 inches.

Marky522, did you get my pm?

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Post  reclaimer Tue Jan 31, 2012 5:45 pm

This project is done. I'm throwing in the towel... I got rear ended and now the car I wanted to put this in is totaled. If the fever ever flares up again I'll just go beat my head against the wall for a while.

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Post  acorad Wed Feb 01, 2012 8:47 am

reclaimer, really sorry to hear this.
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