Tilton Dual MC Setup

Don't throw away the 944 PS pump tensioner rod. It works perfectly as a brace between the housing and the strut tower. I just welded an M8 x 1.25 nut to the tower and drilled a hole in the Dual MC housing, It eliminated ALL the firewall flex (I had little over 1/8" deflection when I mash down hard on the brake pedal)
It has left and right-hand threaded eye bolts that adjust all the slack out of the firewall by turn of a wrench....

Got a pic?

With the MC assembly now tied to your strut tower; are you not worried that the whole assembly, and your firewall, will move back and forth as the car body flexes through turns and over bumps?
You could test this out by installing the rod when the car is jacked up on that side and then compare the fit when that front tyre is loaded from being jacked up on the opposite corner......

I think the firewall reinforcement plate would be a better bet though.....

No, I'm not worries about tower flex, It's the firewall flex to MC pushrod flex that gives somewhat a spongy feel. Mine was not bad at all really at a tad over 1/8" and I counteracted the flex direction/vector of the housing at the exact angle ( @ 45*) from the end of the housing to half way between the 2 rear strut bolts.
What I'm more concerned with is I think Tilton sent me in a "small" direction as I believe I need a Larger MC for the front Lexus brakes as IT is very easy to press the pedal and stop, the throw seems too long for the smaller dia. MC in relation to the Larger diameter MC for the rear brakes. I am going to try a larger volume MC for sure.

Not getting a warm and fuzzy for my dual master setup, if you are getting that kind of flex. What year is your 944? Thanks,

Anyone ever look at how much deflection a factory power brake setup makes?

My ride is an 85.5

I dremeled a slot in the top part of the adjustment screw ( easier than adjusting the supplied Tilton knob)
and adjusted the bias towards the rear some. I took it out on the street and almost did a stoppie without the rears locking up. I'm gonna run around like this and test this setting out for awhile.
There is almost no flex in the firewall now, as I had the neighbor kid come over and push on the brake pedal hard a few times.

According to Dawg, his firewall was flexing like crazy where the housing would come over and almost touch the tower! IIRC his was the EARLY car which may have thinner gauge firewall sheetmetal.... This mod would definitely fix that problem too....

I'm gonna get a new camera phone soon, but here's exactly what I did to put a stop to ANY flex....
Not in diagram, but I have a 1/2" spacer between the housing alloy and the eyebolt at that end...

on this setup do you not cover the firewall hole at all or does it stay open to the bay? I figure for a track car it wouldnt matter but on a street model you would want it covered?

You can't see it but I glued a rubber disc to the inside...works like a charm.
I readjusted the pushrod because I noticed the brake light switch is staying on after I get out of the car, gave me more throw and pushes the switch to turn brake light off.

I installed the 13/16" Master last night and bled the front LS430 calipers (again). Took it for a spin, came back and adjusted the bias a little more towards the rear Mazda RX7 calipers...... This thing stops on a nickle!
I always thought that Tilton told me to go with too small of an MC for these Monsters. The set-up feels more like a boosted set-up with more control....

I'm gonna leave good enough as is.

So final answer is 13/16" Wilwood MC on the Lexus LS430 calipers/ Boxster-S (318mm) rotors with 225/40/18's tires on the fronts...
and....
1" Wilwood MC on Mazda RX7 calipers/ 944 Turbo (300mm) rotors with 285/30/18's on the back.....

Gonna go hit the streets....I'm calling into work, I'm feeling a little sick.... LOL

Time and the weather were agreeable today and I got the dual M/C mounted. I need to order a 14" braided SS hose for the rear M/C. Two things I had to do to make this work for me. Since I am using the higher than .75" relocation point, I had to grind some metal by the brake pedal mount, the brake clevis was hitting it. Not much metal removal was required. I'm using the Wilwood dual M/C mount, and with it I had to space it towards the engine to keep the pushrod from hitting the mount and binding. I'm using wasjers for now, will put in aluminum spacers soon. Deciding where to mount the resorvoirs in the next step. Does anyone know if you can mount a Wilwood upside down? I don't see why not. For those of you who are using the Wilwood clutch M/C, did you remove the helper spring? Her's a picture of the setup, I still need to cleanup the hoses and wiring.

You mean mount the master cylinder upside down? ....after you bleed it all. maybe. But if it leaks at all, its right above your header = FIRE! ......So maybe not. I think theres a 914 guy that mounted 2 wilwoods upside down. Not sure though.

Looks great though!

What kind of fittings are those on the firewall the stainless line is connected to? how did you fabricate that? I looks much cleaner than connecting to the end of the stock lines.

Thanks LT1, it will look a lot better in the near future as I clean up the wiring and paint.

Those fittings are Earls -AN bulkhead fittings. Mine are -3 AN on both sides, I have a T joint that will mount out of sight for the front brakes. The rear brakes will go through a proportioning valve mounted under the dash,connected with braided SS hose, then back out to the hardlines behind the firewall to the rear brakes. I'll see if I still have the part number.

As for mounting the M/C upside down, I've talked myself out of that. The reason I was considering it is that I could mount all 3 resevoirs just in front of the coolant resevoir. Looks pretty cool! The problem with this approach is the front M/C would be a little bit higher than the resevoir. I need to check that again, if the resevoir is full, and the full line is higher than the M/C I'm OK. Most likely they will get mounted on the firewall behind the engine.

yeah 87, you can mount it any which way but loose, the wilwood caps are sealed with o-rings and clamps over the caps. I have my Clutch MC mounted sideways. Actually if it were to leak it could also leak at vertical position if you forgot the o-rings anyways....Set-up looks good
Firewall behind engine is the highest spot and you can just use 1 of the large reservoirs for all 3 MC's

question...How far is the bottom MC away from the nearest header?
When I changed MC sizes the other day, I took it for a little trip and came back and checked the bottom MC and it was warm and I could touch it with my fingers so I am not even bothering with the heat shield after all.

Hi X,

The bottom of the lower M/C is 2.5 inches away from the 3rd from the front header tube. I didn't measure the last tube to M/C clearance. I'm really happy how this is turning out.

BTW, the HUGE spark plug wires are from Taylor, they are their race wire series called 409s, for GM truck LS engines, which means the are .409 inches in diameter or 10.4 mm. Better pics of them are in my gallery, now that I'm back at the project I will post more gallery pics. I can't work in 90 degree weather and high humidity, which is what we have had all summer.

I hope to be on the road in the next few months, I better or I will lose it! Been 3 years this month that I decided to do the V8 instead of the 968 engine I was planning, this is much better!

Are those truck coils and racks? I thought they looked more compact than the LS coils. either way the dual mc clears.
Took me a year to build mine, I had to develope some stuff for this G-ride, but it was worth it. My wife asked me the other day why I haven't been riding my streetfighter. If she only knew how the morning commute plays out, she'd probably worry less if I was on the two wheel street menace....

Yep, brand new truck coils I picked up on ebay last fall, they look so much better that the GTO coils, and from what I have read, a bit more spark!

V8 instead of ... 968 engine ... is much better!

Yup!

I'm glad I went with the truck motor. Everything is half what they want for the Vette stuff. Definitely need a new acronym....
POFB3.0

Good thing is I have a super low mileage 968 engine, 22.8K, which I have in pieces and will start to part out. I'm hoping to generate some cash from it, the cylinder head, cams, and crank get good money for those who want them.

Heck, I was happy to get $150 bucks for the engine block, old control arms, ac/alt bracket and various other alloy crap at the junkyard. No joking, the crank was still in the block and Paco let it fly. I wonder how that batch of alloy's gonna turn out...lol
Just checked your gallery...love the valve cover scheme....

Almost forgot to post a real pic of the mod....