944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Post  Admin Sun Jan 17, 2010 6:48 pm

This just the start of the brackets, just thought ya'll might want to see.
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Post  Dawgz83948 Sun Jan 17, 2010 7:17 pm

Nice, you know what I need. Sold early mounts that will owrk on early and later transaxles.
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Post  Admin Sun Jan 17, 2010 7:49 pm

Do you mean solid trans mounts? If so send me some dimensions or at least a good picture.
My cross member should be close to complete by weeks end. I am hoping to get the motor to sit low and the suspension back up where it belongs.

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Post  gt1scca Sun Jan 17, 2010 7:55 pm

Awesome Eric!
Then I won't have to make these damned spacers NO MO...

Razz


Last edited by gt1scca on Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:34 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  Dawgz83948 Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:05 pm

Admin wrote:Do you mean solid trans mounts?

Yes, but I want one that can bolt to all trannies. The early tranny has extra bolt holes, whereas the late is missing one.

Maybe I'll buy one and send it to you.
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Post  Admin Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:21 pm

Which mount are you referring to? The cross member That I am working on is the front one under the motor that holds everything in. If you need a solid type mount for your tranny, I have an 84 na that I will be taking a part real soon, I can make a solid copy of that. If that is what your wanting, Got pictures?

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Post  Dawgz83948 Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:28 pm

Admin wrote:Which mount are you referring to? The cross member That I am working on is the front one under the motor that holds everything in. If you need a solid type mount for your tranny, I have an 84 na that I will be taking a part real soon, I can make a solid copy of that. If that is what your wanting, Got pictures?

Yes, I want your crossmember when your done, and yes a solid tranny mount for an early would be what I'm refering to, but try to make one that will bolt to a turbo transaxle......
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Post  Admin Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:36 pm

I only have an NA car here at the moment, I am in the process of buying a couple more and I might get lucky and get the turbo tranny. If not , if you can round up a spare stock mount I'll duplicate it in all steel for you.

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Post  944-LT1 Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:16 pm

Wow! So this means no more spacers, no more cutting/welding oil pans and no more special engine mounts/set back plates??

Looks like its gonna be heavy???
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Post  Admin Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:23 pm

Shouldn't be much heavier than the stock cross member with the uprights bolted on. You will still have to use the set back plates on the LSx motors, but not on the LTx or gen I blocks. Very Happy
I hope to be able to eliminate the leaky oil pans and relocated oil filters. No more spacers under the cross member or the struts. I have to get it all to gether to see what kind of problems might come about in the tie rod areas. Hopefully not much.

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Post  xschop Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:25 am

Hey Eric, the inner crossbrace at the ends should be angled upwards more away from the Control Arm Pivot bolt. If the end user (or yourself) drills the control arm pivot bolts higher, that brace will interfere with the control arm in tight corners where the control arm/strut is about at max compression....
Other than that, looks like a good set-up and a great idea.
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Post  Admin Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:33 am

Unless you plan to do some 20ft jumps there is more than enough clearance for the control arm pivot. I am designing these on the computer and not just in my head.
I have put a lot of thought into these before I even made the first cut or weld. I did not just start drilling and welding. These have to be identical geometry to the factory mount locations and that is what they are.

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Post  Dawgz83948 Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:36 am

Admin wrote:Unless you plan to do some 20ft jumps there is more than enough clearance for the control arm pivot. I am designing these on the computer and not just in my head.
I have put a lot of thought into these before I even made the first cut or weld. I did not just start drilling and welding. These have to be identical geometry to the factory mount locations and that is what they are.

Aww, I make 30' jumps on my weekend job. Very Happy I really can't wait for you to be done and look at the final product. Are you going to make the center section removeable?

Now our car really isn't all Porsche anymore......


Last edited by Dawgz83948 on Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:44 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  MN944S Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:41 am

I figured one of you guys would tackle this at some point. I'm really glad this is coming together.
Could never sell myself on the spacers.
If your intention is to make these in quantity and sell them, I'm down for one.
I know once I start buying parts there'll be no going back!! Very Happy

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Post  xschop Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:58 am

I just ran into the fact that the inner bracing on the stock CRAPLOY x-member "MAY" interfere with the control arm, especially since I was about to drill it upwards exactly 1.25". What you are doing there is the way to go, awesome....

What, no SMS modeling.....oh sorry ERIC, forgot you are not an RH employee Razz
Seriously, a 1-off X-member will solve some problems. The Steering rack still has to be dropped at least 1" in relation to everything else, and to get a stock 5.3l truck pan to fit without touching it, the back side of the crossmember should be angled down some, not so with a factory Moroso 20140. Wink
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Post  Admin Mon Jan 18, 2010 10:23 am

39' jumps it will be able to handle, you'll just have to clearance it a little. As far as strength, I say go for it! Shocked We want pictures.........................

As far as a production of these , you betcha! That's what it's all about. My car run and drivers. I really don't need it. I just want it.... Well it'll drive as soon as I get the last of the brackets made to get the Camaro rear end to bolt up. YES I SAID BOLT UP! The thing nearly bolts right in.

Not worried about the stock LS pans fitting as much as just pans that we don't have to mod. We seem to not be able to find people that really want to work. Sad

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Post  948 Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:09 am

Looks very nice.....how much do you suppose this would cost?
Not that its a big deal; won't the weight will go up quite a bit, steel is ~2.5 times denser than Al?
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Post  Dawgz83948 Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:59 am

948 wrote:Looks very nice.....how much do you suppose this would cost?
Not that its a big deal; won't the weight will go up quite a bit, steel is ~2.5 times denser than Al?

The aluminum piece is pretty thick to make it strong, probably can use thinner steel so maybe it'll be a push. We'll see when he's done. Don't forget to drill and tap 3 holes for the under carridge tray thingy.....
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Post  ykalinin Fri Jan 29, 2010 1:05 pm

Shocked that looks great, not that I'll be able to afford it anytime soon but just seeing it makes me feel better...

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Post  stu wright Fri Jan 29, 2010 5:25 pm

where i work at we have a computerizd mg burner and a laser cutter i bet i could get the diminsions and cut out the front and back of the cross member and leave a section to put in our press brake and fold the top and bottom.less pieces to weld .could make out of 316 ss.the laser makes very nice cuts.it can be programed to cut bolt holes .any laser cutter or mg plasma burners can be programed with the dimensions to make such a part and the compensation for the drop to clear oil pan can be accomplished.i make large industrial fans at my shop.all of our components are cut with these types of machines which are very precise.it would be much more stronger and corrosion resistant in stainless steel and a lot stronger .like exshop stated the rack would need lowered and it wouldbe nice to use maybe a aftermarket rack and with tubular control arms you could use different ball joints spindles ect.posibilitys are there for extreme durability.
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Post  Admin Sat Feb 06, 2010 7:55 pm

Finished first Prototype. I already have the second version being cut , parts are due to be picked up on Tuesday. Right now the factory cross member weighs in at 15lbs with the up right on it. My new cross member weighs in at 16.53lb. The prototype 2 should weigh considerably less. The cross member is in my personal car, I installed a brand new factory oil pan WITH NO MODIFICATION! As you can see I can get a hand between the rack and the pan. The motor is in the exact same place that it was before. I have not moved it up or down. The rack is moved down just a bit. Yes I have the prototype bump steer kit on it's way too. Other than the bump steer kit , there is no shims and no pan modification, and there will be a lot more room for the headers. Yes I will be making this for the LSx motors as soon as I get the 2nd prototype
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Post  stu wright Sat Feb 06, 2010 8:39 pm

nice job looks good
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Post  Vorsche944 Sun Feb 07, 2010 1:32 pm

great work, can't wait to see the LS1.
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Post  ghostcloak Sun Feb 07, 2010 6:45 pm

Just what we needed. Excellent! Twisted Evil
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Post  gamman Sun Feb 07, 2010 11:11 pm

So, this saves a new pan $? And potentially upgrades to the rack/cntrl arms? And maybe save ~5lbs? If it is as strong, SWEET!
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