944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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1984 Gen IV 5.3 Swap

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racertomtom
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Hotrodz of Dallas
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Post  superman22x Sat Jun 11, 2016 5:47 pm

So, I've been posting questions and such, but it's time to finally make a thread. I started this project about 9 months ago when I bought a 2008 5.3L off craigslist. Aluminum block, 243 heads, flat top pistons. It was a good start. I didn't even have a car yet. A few months later, my friend offered to sell me his 84 944 with a bad engine. The car has been sitting in a barn for a number of years, and is in OK shape. Seats have no rips or anything. The car just picked up a little mold in the barn. It cleaned up pretty well. The outside is still a mess. It's been repainted at some point, and the updated paint isn't holding up well. That's not a problem for me though, it's a great mule platform for this swap. If I really like it, I'll repaint it or get a different car and carry my parts over. I've repainted a few bikes now, can be a long process, but I've had good results.
Onto the swap. The motor I have is a gen IV engine, so I needed to get a 58x controller to match. I originally opted for an e38, and I was going to just use HPTuners on that. Since then I have changed to an E67 and plan to use a GMPP calibration. To do this, I had to rewire my E38 harness to match the pinouts for the E67. I also had to order the 56 pin blue and 73 pin grey connectors for the E67 -mouser carried these. Rewiring was easy then. I used LT1Swap and the wiring diagram for the GMPP crate engines to do this.
I have the corvette fuel filter installed in place of the original 944 filter. I reused all the Porsche fuel lines and bought some 10mm swagelok to NPT fittings for spots where I cut the line. On the engine end, I cut the line and used the same swagelok fitting with a -6 JIC/AN fitting and used a stainless braided line to the inlet of the fuel rails (billet eBay models).
For brakes, I am using the mustang hydroboost setup with the stock Mustang hydroboost master and a wilwood prop valve. I used the mustang mounting plate, but drilled four new holes and welded in three studs on the plate, and then one stud to the car. So one nut can be put on in the engine bay while I crawl under the car and connect the push rod. For the pushrod to brake pedal, it was nearly lined up from the get go, but I needed to move it about 1/16” so I was real happy. I did this by sanding a small amount off the plastic bushing that sticks out the end. This seems to line up well visually.
For the clutch I used a wilwood master and welded a 5/16-24 hex coupling onto the stock Porsche clevis.
The only thing I really have left at this point is to get my manifolds from TPC and install them. I also have a few wiring odds and ends to wrap up once I find the place for the O2 sensors and such. I just built my intake duct yesterday, so I can wire my MAF up now.
With all that, here’s some pictures:

The car shortly after it arrived:
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Engine when I first got it and removed the heads:
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The engine first installed. Surprisingly easy to fit it in. I used the summitracing oil pan and pickup. It’s a copy of the Moroso pan.
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Master cylinder to valve cover clearance. Tight, but I was able to fit three coils in the stock location. One is on the strut tower (stock wire used).
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Intake duct made. It’s only 3” tubing. Just tacked together for now. K&N sells a 4” diameter by 6” length round filter that I think will just fit about the headlight. I’m hoping it’s not all too restrictive. My main issue is that with the LS6 intake and 4bolt TB, I have to run a ¾” thick spacer. Removing that might allow me to run 3.5” or 4” tubing up to the MAF. I’ve seen a company that cuts the 3bolt flange off the LS6 intake and installs a 4bolt one. Maybe doing that and shortening/turning the flange would be a good option for us 944 folks.
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I did some rough trimming of the hood latch. I need to do a little more and make sure there is nothing sharp touching the intake. It would be easy to move the hood latch over ½” or so I think too.
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superman22x

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Post  superman22x Sat Jun 11, 2016 5:51 pm

One thing I wasn't sure about is A/C. I don't plan on installing it right away, but eventually I think I will. So before I cut the stock Porsche lines, where have you all cut them? Or just removed and tossed them? I'm not sure how to disconnect them at the firewall side either... Any tips?

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Post  matt889 Sun Jun 12, 2016 9:51 am

superman22x wrote:One thing I wasn't sure about is A/C.  I don't plan on installing it right away, but eventually I think I will.  So before I cut the stock Porsche lines, where have you all cut them?  Or just removed and tossed them?  I'm not sure how to disconnect them at the firewall side either...  Any tips?  
if you unplug ur ac unit's you should always plug the holes with plastic plugs to insure you don't get anything inside the underdash radiator sector and for the hoses also just put duck tape on them I removed all AC parts and blocked them . As for the intake ull have to test it on the road for restriction problems shouldn't happen

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Post  superman22x Sun Jun 12, 2016 11:49 am

What's the easiest way to get at the hoses where they attach to the under dash HVAC system?

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Post  matt889 Sun Jun 12, 2016 8:47 pm

If you wanna. Block them it's on the firewall under the heater core hoses

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Post  superman22x Sun Jun 12, 2016 9:34 pm

They are disconnected from the engine bay side? I didn't see anything to disconnect them. It looked like they just went into the firewall.

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Post  matt889 Mon Jun 13, 2016 8:56 am

superman22x wrote:They are disconnected from the engine bay side?  I didn't see anything to disconnect them.  It looked like they just went into the firewall.
I have a late model 1986 maybe it's different

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Post  superman22x Fri Jun 17, 2016 2:07 pm

Ended up cutting the 15mm line. In the future, I'll braze/weld/swage a fitting on there to run a line to the LS AC pump. The other line I forgot remains, and runs to the stock 944 canister in the front driver's side corner of the engine bay.

The other thing I have 99% done is my powersteering system. I ended up using the stock Fbody pump, removed the reservoir, and put in a 1/4" NPT bung using none other than JBWeld. This has a 90* brass hose barb fitting. This will run to the stock 944 Powersteering reservoir on the passenger side of the engine bay. The low pressure from the hydroboost will Tee in at the reservoir here as well.

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Post  superman22x Sat Jun 25, 2016 9:37 pm

Looking like it's unlikely that the LS6 intake with 3 bolt to 4 bolt spacer is going to fit here... Might have to swap to an LS2 intake. Bit of a downgrade, but that's ok. I'm going to try and fit the hood tomorrow.

I also am supposed to be getting the headers from TPC this week (the budget headers). Looking into the best way to install them. I am thinking of suspending the engine with the torque tube bolted up, and dropping the cross-member. I think I should be able to install the headers from below then. Has anyone tried this?

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Post  superman22x Sun Jun 26, 2016 6:34 pm

Got my heater hoses hooked up today. I kept the stock porsche lines in place, cut the smaller diameter one just past the firewall in the engine bay, and used a 90* coupling there. The heater valve is then sitting right near the two ports at the water pump. I used the recommended part numbers I saw on here. Although, I don't think they were all needed really.

The bad news is that my intake and throttle body does not fit. I am going to have to switch to an LS2 intake I think. The hood hits the mouth of the throttle body itself.

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Post  matt889 Sun Jun 26, 2016 10:05 pm

The hood hits or the hood reinforcement brackets hit?

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Post  superman22x Sun Jun 26, 2016 10:38 pm

Reinforcement bracket. But it looks like the hood needs to drop another inch yet before closing. And I have 1/2" cross member spacers in already. I think it's just the combination of the 3 to 4 bolt spacer and large ls3 throttle body. Not a big deal to switch to an ls2 intake I suppose.

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Post  FrostedFlakeJake Tue Jun 28, 2016 1:40 pm

superman22x wrote:Reinforcement bracket.  But it looks like the hood needs to drop another inch yet before closing.  And I have 1/2" cross member spacers in already.  I think it's just the combination of the 3 to 4 bolt spacer and large ls3 throttle body.  Not a big deal to switch to an ls2 intake I suppose.

Hard to tell from your photo but I would suspect the throttle body spacer.

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Post  matt889 Tue Jun 28, 2016 5:59 pm

If you have a spacers on ur throttle body for sure it going to hit the hood it passes tight as it is with a 3bolt TB I had to trim mine down

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Post  superman22x Mon Jul 04, 2016 9:42 pm

Well, got everything nearly plumbed up now. Tried to fire the car today, but I am not getting spark or fuel pressure. I jumper wired the pump, and still was unable to get the pump to push any fluid up unfortunately. The spark problem, I'm not sure about. I have 12V at the coils during crank. It's a GMPP controller. I'll have to verify wiring at the crank sensor tomorrow. I'm not sure what else it might be.

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Post  superman22x Tue Jul 05, 2016 2:06 pm

I found that I had the cam sensor wired wrong. I had pins A and C reversed. Easy mistake, as there were two different style connectors in the 4th gen LS engines, and I must have used the wrong diagram. However, there is still no spark... I'm going to use my roommates computer to check codes next.

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Post  superman22x Tue Jul 05, 2016 8:42 pm

Good news! Fired it up just now. Turns out, the spark issue was due to a bad ground... Or rather, a ground I forgot to attach. I was only able to fire it on ether for now. But the fuel issue is a separate thing at least. No DTCs before it was fired at least.

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Post  erioshi Tue Jul 05, 2016 10:37 pm

Nice. Progress always feels good.
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Post  superman22x Wed Jul 06, 2016 7:46 am

Before I spend the money on an OEM 944 fuel pump, what have you guys found the limitations of the oem pump to be? I am thinking maybe an aftermarket pump would be a better choice to protect for future upgrades.

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Post  matt889 Wed Jul 06, 2016 7:40 pm

superman22x wrote:Before I spend the money on an OEM 944 fuel pump, what have you guys found the limitations of the oem pump to be?  I am thinking maybe an aftermarket pump would be a better choice to protect for future upgrades.  
im going to use a walbro 255Lph gsl392 model i was planing on using my stock NA pump but i heard it wont last long.

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Post  sharkey Wed Jul 06, 2016 9:56 pm

a bosche 044 pump should be enough pump for what your doing. not 100% sure but i think it will bolt in place of the stock pump.

ive got an aem 380lph pump on my swap, its a little overkill at the moment however id hate to run out of fuel under boost.

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Post  Rich L. Thu Jul 07, 2016 10:29 am

OEM pump is working fine for me at 389 whp right up to red line. My plan has been to go to that Walbro pump too, but 4 years now with the LS1 and the original '87 n/a pump is still going strong.

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Post  superman22x Thu Jul 07, 2016 9:52 pm

Hmm. Seems the Bosch 044 is a nice choice. But I also saw in my searching a pump called company called CNT that has decent reviews and makes a 300LPH Bosch 044 replacement pump for $50. I think I'm going to give it a shot. If it fails, not a big loss. But it seems to be semi decent from what I have read.

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Post  matt889 Fri Jul 08, 2016 8:41 am

Rich L. wrote:OEM pump is working fine for me at 389 whp right up to red line. My plan has been to go to that Walbro pump too, but 4 years now with the LS1 and the original '87 n/a pump is still going strong.

Rich
do all the NA pumps work for this application? I have a 86 and didn't wanna push it to far it's the original pump from 1986

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Post  superman22x Thu Jul 14, 2016 6:43 am

A little more progress yesterday. Got my LS2 intake installed, it fits much better. I think it moved the throttle body back by an inch at least, and it's a little lower too I think. I didn't refit the hood yet, but I think it will clear. I'm hoping I can get rid of my crossmember spacers even, maybe with a little trimming to the hood support. My new fuel pump arrived, but I just ordered the inlet fitting I need yesterday, so it will be a few days until I install and test that.

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