944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Clutch bleeder line bad?

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Clutch bleeder line bad? Empty Clutch bleeder line bad?

Post  948inVA on Tue Dec 29, 2015 5:43 pm

Just wanted to run this by you guys and confirm that it makes sense. Something happened the other day and I suddenly couldn't shift gears. Still had decent pedal pressure but the clutch wasn't disengaging. I swapped in a new wilwood master cylinder today and tried to bleed it but was having a lot of trouble. It seems like air is getting into the system somewhere but I'm not losing fluid. The bleeder line is looking a little rusted and I noticed it was wedged between the hood and firewall accidentally last time I closed the hood. Plus, the line has been sitting over the passenger side header for a few years now. Does this sound like a bad line or should I be looking at the HTOB?

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Clutch bleeder line bad? Empty Re: Clutch bleeder line bad?

Post  bluehellfire666 on Sat Jan 09, 2016 10:26 pm

Hopefully it is the bleeder, but I had identical symptoms on my 951 when the clutch disk spring center decided to make itself multiple pieces...

Can you physically/visually inspect the clutch assembly without major dis-assembly? If so, have someone push the clutch pedal while you watch for TOB movement...if it ain't moving and you just bled it then something in the hydraulic system is bad...if it moves a decent amount, try bleeding again, if it moves a lot...well let's not go there yet.

Good luck,
Ethan
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Post  948inVA on Sun Jan 10, 2016 8:04 am

I managed to remove the bleeder line and pressure tested it - seems to be good. The line from master to slave also looks good, so I'm pretty much resigned to pulling the torque tube at this point.

When I tried to bleed the system, it seemed to be pulling air in on the return stroke of the pedal. When pushing the pedal in there would be no resistance until about halfway through the stroke, even after multiple bleeding sessions.

New C5 slave is on order, and I'm looking to switch back to a stock-type clutch as well. I was using the TPC clutch disc with a Centerforce PP - a little harsh for daily driving.

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Post  xschop on Sun Jan 10, 2016 8:48 am

On the new MC, try pre-filling it on the bench before installing, then continue bleeding.
I had to do this on the 948 and 928-LS swap and it worked.
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Post  Rich L. on Sun Jan 10, 2016 12:23 pm

2nd on pre-filling the master, had to do that for my brakes. Installing a SpeedBleeder on the clutch bleed line was what finally got all the air out of my clutch master/slave. Good luck.

Rich
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Post  scryfst on Sun Jan 10, 2016 4:32 pm

Did you check the clutch disc before install to make sure the hub was not projecting past the friction plate? Or check your Pilot bearing depth before assembly?

The hub can friction weld itself to the pilot bearing causing symptoms similar to yours. Pulling your torque tube will be a PITA if this is the issue.
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Post  948inVA on Sun Jan 10, 2016 9:02 pm

I did bench bleed the new master before installing it. This is my 3rd wilwood compact master - first one died an early death due to the angle on the firewall being slightly off. When I put the 2nd one in (less than a year ago) I tried to correct the angle - haven't checked that one for piston wear, it might actually be fine and my problem could just be the HTOB. Never had any problems bleeding the first 2 master cylinders so I knew something else was up when I couldn't get the pedal feel back.

scryfst wrote:Did you check the clutch disc before install to make sure the hub was not projecting past the friction plate? Or check your Pilot bearing depth before assembly?

The hub can friction weld itself to the pilot bearing causing symptoms similar to yours. Pulling your torque tube will be a PITA if this is the issue.

Good point, I actually did not check this when I first installed the clutch 3+ years ago. Eric had sent me a clutch disc and I guess he did not check it first because the hub was indeed making contact with the pilot bearing. I had to pull everything out and grind the hub down. Hasn't been a problem since though. And I won't need to pull the torque tube, just slide it back a bit once the trans is out.
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