First post

Hello to all I have been lurking around the board for quite some time but this will be my first post.  I finally got my project running.   It started and then when I tried to cut it off it did not shut off.   I think it has something to do with how i wired the key on wire from pcm.  I ran it to a constant 12v.  Would this cause it not to cut off when the key is switched?  I had to disconnect the spark plug wires for it to shut off.  

The second problem is that when I went to press my clutch I think the interior of the braided line burst because fluid started coming out of the line.   I changed the line and as I was trying to bleed it the bleeder screw I think I've read it wrong and stripped the slave cylinder so my question is how do I change the slave cylinder do I have to remove the transmission to pull the torque to back to get the slave cylinder off and then I've been reading different post on the board and there's a question about making sure that the torque to this line. With the bearing so is there any way or best way to do this and is that the proper way taking the transmission off or do you take the engine out I hate that I would have to do all of this just to change a slave cylinder but can someone help.

Thanks for that

Can anyone help

Not sure about the shut off issue. The slave cylinder can be removed by dropping the transaxle and sliding the torque tube back. You have to clear the dog ears on the torsion tube to get it back far enough. Maybe you can salvage it by tightening the tube to the slave cylinder. I doubt the braided line broke, if it was new.

In the back of the repair Manuel (Haynes) is where you will find the wiring diagram, get use to looking cross eyed at that. I used a painless harness and it was painless, came with everything and labeled. Depending on the year my 87s has a red/yellow wire in the 14 pin connector that goes to the pink wire to PCM (this is info you will find in the wiki) . I cut that wire as to not go out in the engine compartment and ran it across to the computer. The computer will get constant power separate from the switched ignition - you would already have that if car is ruining. Connecting to the red/yellow is what shuts it off with the key. I test lighted every thing before connecting again verify on your own

Well no one wants to be the bearer of bad news. If it is stripped then one or the other has to happen because the slave cylinder is like a donut and the drive shaft goes through it. (mounted to the adapter plate between torque tube and bell housing it is). I have a remote bleeder that is mounted at the strut tower so I don't have to go there. you have to decide to pull trans and torque tube or unbolt the motor and swing it forward. the one big thing about trans and torque tube removal is that the drive shaft is a MUST to go back exactly the same depth into the pilot bearing and would be very particular to verify. Painting the union on the shafts in the trans would be one way but you would be on your own.