944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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New clutch slipping!

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New clutch slipping! Empty New clutch slipping!

Post  kelleysj Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:50 am

Hello everyone i in the last month finally got my project fired up and moving im down to finishing up the exhaust and the air intake. My issue now is on the first test drive it seemed I wasnt getting as much power as i should be, I believe it to be the clutch i put it in 3rd gear and let the clutch out and the car did not die. I have made small test drives at about a mile each time i never smell a clutch burning smell at all. Im at a lose in my eyes the hydraulic TOB is in the right place but maybe im wrong. Here are some pics of my TOB if anyone has ran into this let me know i want to get this corrected asap. (warmer weather in Indiana this week)

Thanks Kelley

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Post  kelleysj Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:50 am

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Post  kelleysj Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:52 am

also I'm using a centerforce pressure plate and clutch disc.
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Post  Admin Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:31 am

Did you put a Motor plate between the bell housing and the block like I had suggested?
If you look close you can see that the Throw out Bearing is bottomed out , it has no where to retract to. The only thing it has left to do , is push on the Pressure plate fingers, which in turn releases the final pressure on the clutch.
This is the same thing that happens to every SBC/LT1 install that uses the C5 bell housing and adapter plate. No one ever puts in the motor plate.....
If you had check the dimensions before assembly you would have seen it then.
The rule of thumb Measure twice, cut once!


Here is a picture of what you need.
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Post  kelleysj Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:43 am

This is something that i was never aware of for the build and i guess is rarely spoken of on this forum. I guess because the LT1 and SBC are a thing of the past. How much spacing do i need between the TOB and the Pressure plate? I read alot of other threads out there that say its normal for the TOB to touch the fingers and when i inspected them they all felt pretty loose like no pressure from the TOB was on them.
kelleysj
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Post  spence Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:50 am

Follow this link... You need around 1/8" - 1/4" of space for the T/O bearing to work properly

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Post  xschop Fri Jan 11, 2013 9:57 am

Hey Kelley, your pic tells the story. The TOB plastic bearing retainer is bottomed out on it's alloy base. You need the engine plate Admin posted, or to make it an easier task, you could add 5ea shims between the Bellhousing and the adapter plate, removing the M10 x 1.5 bolts individually.

Ensure that the shims are the exact thicknesses.
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Post  kelleysj Fri Jan 11, 2013 9:59 am

what is 5ea? What do you think for size of shims.
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Post  xschop Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:06 am

Do you have the 0.600" pilot adapter installed?
If so you should not shim it back more than 3/16". If you did, you need to ensure that at least half the TT shaft tip is still inserted into the pilot bearing. I would start with 1/8" shim washers (they are precision ground and mic out exactly 0.125" the entire circumference of the washer). You can find these at local hardware stores/Fastenal. It would be alot easier than removing everything to install that engine plate. This thread should be a "stickky" to anyone doing an SBC or LT1/4 swap.
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Post  kelleysj Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:09 am

All great advice but i believe the easiest would be the washer shims instead of dropping my Transaxle again. Thanks Xschop.
kelleysj
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Post  kelleysj Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:10 am

I bought mine from Eric so whatever he sells is the adapter i used.
kelleysj
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Post  xschop Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:15 am

We're on the same page. Just remember if you had to go up to 3/16" shims, then you have the 15x35x14 pilot bearing option. Since you would have to drop the clutch to replace it, you would want to make sure that the clutch disc you are using has at least 1/8" distance between new pilot bearing and the rear clutch disc hub.
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Post  kelleysj Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:20 am

xschop wrote:We're on the same page. Just remember if you had to go up to 3/16" shims, then you have the 15x35x14 pilot bearing option. Since you would have to drop the clutch to replace it, you would want to make sure that the clutch disc you are using has at least 1/8" distance between new pilot bearing and the rear clutch disc hub.


Ok
kelleysj
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Post  kelleysj Mon Jan 14, 2013 8:40 pm

I shimmed the bellhousing and adapter plate 1/8 inch now runs like a champ. Amazing how much 1/8 inch can make thanks everyone.
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Post  Wild Bill Wed Feb 13, 2013 9:59 pm

Hey I ran into that problem! but I didn't have the engine installed yet.
Fabbed my own solution.

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