944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Post  zeusrotty on Mon Mar 12, 2012 11:33 pm

Transmission seems to have a few possible issues. Runs like a raped ape though. The LS2 is ridiculously fast and I am loving it. So here goes... Its like driving a Cobra. Unrefined. Nothing but brute force and (in the famous words of Bill Cosby) PIIIIIIPES!


It has a spec clutch, with an LS7 flywheel, short shift linkage and modified rod. Also a NA 5th gear and a solid trans mount.

Clutch is tough and engage and it engages pretty low to the floor. I am used to an Audi S4 where engagement is really high... Is that normal? Is there a way that I can bring the engagement up a little? a good 3 inches or more would be great.

Problems are occasionally when I go to shift into 2nd, it grinds terribly, buy then sometimes its just fine. Doesn't seem like it would be a synchro, because its very intermittent, and the kicker is that it ALWAYS does it when I go for reverse. Just looking for some input on possible fixes.

Also, when I release the clutch, it feels like there is a shimmy in the pedal, and almost feels like I can feel it in my seat. More pronounced on decel while in gear. flywheel?

Also, when I'm actually driving the car in reverse, it feels like its hopping or shimmying or something... Would that be because of the solid mount? Appreciate your input on this in advance!


Last edited by zeusrotty on Thu Jan 10, 2013 3:33 pm; edited 2 times in total

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Post  laptop_geek on Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:14 am

I might be able to help you, but only on a one or two questions.

Your grinding issue may be related to your clutch issue. It sounds like the clutch may not be releasing all the way with it engaging so low. Try adjusting your clutch out some so you have more play in it. There maybe (depending on how it is set up) a nut under the dash above the clutch pedal that you can adjust. Try playing with that too see if you can get some more through in the clutch. If that doesn't work you may need to shim your HTOB. You can buy shims from tickperformance (and others), the difficulty of this job greatly depends on the setup of the car, how the exhaust is run, they type of bellhousing, ext.

Does the clutch shimmy only when its cold? If you have a kevlar clutch friction plate that is probably the cause of it shimmying. They tend to act up a little bit until they are warmed up.

I'd make sure the clutch is releasing all the way before I do too much else with it. That may very well solve a lot of your problems.
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Post  Admin on Tue Mar 13, 2012 7:56 am

Ya , what Laptop said!

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Post  Arthropraxis on Tue Mar 13, 2012 8:02 am

These transmissions are not the smoothest. In addition to the clutch issues, try changing the trans fluid and checking the shifter pin for barreling, the shifter cup for cracking and the linkage at the transaxle for slop.
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Post  xschop on Tue Mar 13, 2012 9:48 am

Check the firewall near the clutch MC for cracks and/or movement when depressing clutch pedal. He had recently posted that his TT Driveshaft was stripped at the splines also.
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Post  zeusrotty on Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:04 am

The TT is a fairly new Constntine unit, so it's not that. Checked the firewall for cracks, and found nothing. The clutch master seems to be supported well. I think it has to be the adjustment on the shifter and or linkage.

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Post  xschop on Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:07 am

Remove the shift boot and rod from the shift lever and inspect the pin on the shift handle to see if it's worn and sloppy.
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Post  zeusrotty on Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:09 am

Okay, I will look at that tonight.

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Post  RobotMachines on Tue Mar 13, 2012 8:16 pm

Admin wrote:Ya , what Laptop said!
+1


I have the LT1 setup so this may not apply to you but here are a few things I noticed that are minor but may make a difference:

1. I used a stainless wrapped lines to replace the soft lines for my clutch/brakes. Everything tightened up after that. I used stainless wrapped lines years later on my two supermoto bikes and it really made a difference in stiffening up the brakes.

2. I was able to snake my clutch slave cylinder, while attached, up above the master when bleeding the system. Made for a very good bleed.

3. There's a bolt at the top of the linkage right above where everything attaches to the transaxle which you could adjust, may allow you to make going into reverse a little easier.

I agree with laptop. If your clutch isn't fully disengaging then you'll have the grind when shifting. Also check the shifting shaft coupler at the transmission end (I think it's under a rubber boot) to make sure it doesn't have any play.


Last edited by RobotMachines on Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:13 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Post  zeusrotty on Tue Mar 13, 2012 8:44 pm

I have the LS2 with an fbody compressor. What belt do I need? Mine just broke yesterday. Thanks in advance!

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Post  RobotMachines on Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:17 pm

zeusrotty wrote:I have the LS2 with an fbody compressor. What belt do I need? Mine just broke yesterday. Thanks in advance!
I think if you just bring the broken one to NAPA or some auto parts place, they'll take it to the back and match it up with one that has the same circumference; bring it out and drop it on the the counter where you two can agree it matches Very Happy


Sorry, LT1 948 talking
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Post  zeusrotty on Tue Apr 03, 2012 12:56 pm

Okay, so I bled the clutch, and I adjusted the pedal out a little. It all seems to be much better. Thanks for the help guys!

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Post  odurandina on Mon Apr 16, 2012 1:25 pm

updates on the car ??


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Post  zeusrotty on Mon Apr 16, 2012 3:06 pm

Yep.

It now has Racer's Edge camber plates with 650# springs in the front and 750# springs in the back, It has the Broadfoot racing widebody kit on it, Elephant racing bump steer kit is on its way. Harness bar is ready to go in. Black Victor racing Innsbruck wheels, with 275's in the front and 315's in the back. Rennline track mats, Rennline adjustable pedals, HT-10 race pads... And I have had it for a month and 5 days. LOL!
Still have way more to do, but I have to pay the rent and make sure I can feed the kids!

Still want data acquisition, full suspension bushing and bearing replacement (racers edge) big brakes, xchops axles, full cage, race seats, then when I get it all together and handling right, i want to start building the motor. But that wont be until winter. Need more money and more time!

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Post  docwyte on Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:49 am

I'm not a huge fan of the HT 10 pads, they're old technology. The DTC 60/70's are much better. I use the DTC 70's and I'm happy with them.

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Post  Rich L. on Tue Apr 17, 2012 10:24 am

Roll bar! Don't do harnesses without rollover protection.
/soapbox

The fenders look great.

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Post  docwyte on Tue Apr 17, 2012 10:26 am

Agreed. Rollbar or use the stock seat belts.

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Post  vundba on Tue Apr 17, 2012 3:25 pm

hey!
here's a nice roll cage I plan on using on my car, it's pricey but I like the bend at the door for easier entry.
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Post  docwyte on Tue Apr 17, 2012 3:30 pm

That's one of the better bolt in options for the 944, but it's still not that great of a cage. It also requires you to weld in the plates and if you've gotta do that, you're better off getting a proper custom welded cage put in.

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I just bought DVC's 944... AND NOW I DROWNED IT IN A FLASH FLOOD... And now the rebuild starts!!! Empty More vibration issues!

Post  zeusrotty on Mon Aug 20, 2012 5:51 pm

What would cause a vibration at 3k and at 4k but isn't consistent? Sometimes it does it and sometimes it does. It can be smooth one second and shaking like a leaf the next... I am just looking for clues before I send it out...

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Post  Arthropraxis on Mon Aug 20, 2012 6:11 pm

Is the vibration RPM dependent or speed dependent, will it happen with clutch in or clutch out?. I know you said intermittent, just trying to narrow it down. It could be an intermittent miss, have you hooked a scanner up?
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Post  zeusrotty on Mon Aug 20, 2012 6:15 pm

Arthropraxis wrote:Is the vibration RPM dependent or speed dependent, will it happen with clutch in or clutch out?. I know you said intermittent, just trying to narrow it down. It could be an intermittent miss, have you hooked a scanner up?

It is RPM dependent.
it is noticeable when I just rev it to 3k and 4k with the car just sitting. I have not scanned it other than with the hp tuner... But It isn't throwing any codes. Do I scan files while its running? It is definetly not speed sensitive. And It will do it with clutch in while I drive it.

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Post  Arthropraxis on Mon Aug 20, 2012 7:54 pm

Does it do it in a specific RPM range? If it does it with the clutch in and sitting still, it has to be a rotating assembly from the pressure plate forward. Was the flywheel and PP balanced prior to installation? Were the proper torque sequencing steps taken during installation? How does the vibration damper/crank pulley look? How about the other pulleys, bad bearings in those can cause RPM dependent vibrations. Make sure the motor isn't touching the firewall. A bad transmission mount can cause vibration. An exhaust leak putting cool air across the O2 sensors can cause a vibration. If you get a scanner see if the O2 sensors are running correctly. Can you tell I have the same issue?
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Post  zeusrotty on Tue Aug 21, 2012 2:13 pm

Yikes. I may have an exhaust leak. I had the slave replaced a few weeks ago and they didnt tighten it down very well at the primaries. So that could be part of it. Crawled under there last night and there were bolts missing and then some were loose. Messed up! It does it with clutch in and out. So it must be the pressure plate, flywheel, or something up front... Its pissing me off cuase this thing could be such a great car if it wouldn't shake like a leaf half the time!`

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Post  Arthropraxis on Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:11 pm

I changed out my vibration damper, had the clutch assembly checked for balance, fuel injectors cleaned, checked motor mounts and still have a vibration in the same range as yours. I need access to a scanner to get the O2's checked live. Try running it without the accessory belt to see if you still get the vibration, easy way to check the pulleys.
I did read that the Vette gets dynamically balanced with the drive train in place and some GM dealerships have the equipment necessary to do this. There is more discussion on this issue on the Vette forums than any other.
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