Wilwood clutch master died WAY too soon!

Sweet! Let us know how it works out. You used 16 gauge or what?

That should fix your problem.
Will you be able to install the small reservoir onto the MC that comes with the Wilwood Kit?
Also do you have to hammer/massage the strut tower more?

Intriguing that the factory brake cereal bowl is a perfect 12 degrees.

12°! When did this happen?!

I re-measured it a few weeks back and my 85.5 factory cereal bowl puts the brake booster exactly 12 degrees from the firewall. I calculated a 30% decrease in angle when drilling the Brake pedal clevis pin upwards by 0.75" so a manual MC off the firewall should be 8.4 degrees. Maybe someone else can confirm the early (pre 85.5) cereal bowl angles?

I designed my V8 swap Brake MC to be angle adjustable in this range....

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Crap. Well thanks for measuring again. I was about to order a 6 degree shim for the master but now....

I designed my V8 swap Brake MC to be angle adjustable in this range....

Really, How?

I will go measure my cereal bowl...its just sitting on the counter.

Nevermind...just remembered that the plate is right behind the cylinder head and pretty close to it as is.

I went ahead and measured the angle with my mic's and such. From a 1987, the angle is 12.45°.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

So, how much you asking for these adjustable aluminum plates? Just the rectangular one, not the black plate its bolted to...I already have that part.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

I won't have to massage that area any more to fit the master the way it is. I massaged it quite a bit trying to fit the larger master. The small master cylinder ALMOST fit as it was, now it has a lot of room around it.

I'm hoping to be able to use the small reservoir that comes with the kit. We'll see!

I recall the brake master being at much more of an angle, probably just to clear the motor. My manual brake master sits at 0*...

Is the angle the same if you mount the MC side ways? Up and down that is, I would assume it is.

Yeah, the angle of the master cylinder is the same even though it's mounted vertically now. Being mounted vertically is actually the way these master cylinders were meant to mount.

I can make the plate alone with whatever MC bolt pattern you want for $80 shipped US-48 only. I hate USPS paperwork LOL. If you missed the other post, The BMW 750il 25mm master fits the 944 MC spot and the 944 reservoir is plug'n'play. I've got another Dual MC mount that I'll be working on for one of my V8 kits. I promise It'll be trick as well. The Dual MC mount has a heim joint that ameliorates the small difference in pushrod angles that would otherwise score a reg. MC if the degrees are off.

Just a minor update, but my Tilton arrived today. Same basic size/shape as the Wilwood, but it seems like it's much higher quality if you ask me. Includes fittings, pushrod ends in a ball instead of a mushroom head, thicker aluminum body, better fit on the pushrod boot, reservoir has a filter screen. Hopefully it will last longer, too...

Ground down a few of the welds and seam-sealered it all up. A little ugly still, but i'll see what i can do prior to painting. I'm sure nobody will even look at it in the end

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Alright, finished up. I know you're all holding your breath

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

So the answer is, yes, the reservoir does fit on there nicely. I'm going to have to re-route some wiring to make it look nice, though.

After cleaning up the painted area and surrounding area a little bit you can't really tell what i did in there unless you really look. The paint i used isn't a very good match for the Porsche paint, but, no big deal. It's not a show car.

I checked on the pushrod, it's an excellent push straight down the center. The washer at the back of the master that guides the pushrod doesn't even come into contact with the pushrod itself.

Unfortunately, i have to order a -3 to -4 AN reducer before i can use it. Oh well...just started snowing again anyways.

Looks great! Nice fix.

Rich

Good Job Porch. Thanks for the write-up.

So I'm trying to fix my firewall today... following in Porch's footsteps. I made my bracket with 6 degree angle and was trying to position it but not sure about the fitment. When I lay the bracket up against the firewall, I have a gap at the bottom due to the stock indent. Should I just scribe the sides of my bracket and then weld it up?

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Just killed my second wilwood master yesterday during a race I had shimmed it with washers, guess I'll get some angle shims and do it correctly this time

supes6 wrote:So I'm trying to fix my firewall today... following in Porch's footsteps. I made my bracket with 6 degree angle and was trying to position it but not sure about the fitment. When I lay the bracket up against the firewall, I have a gap at the bottom due to the stock indent. Should I just scribe the sides of my bracket and then weld it up?

Looks great! I didn't run into that, and i think it's because my piece was just a bit wider. It looks like the outside edge of your master is just about to the edge of your wedge. Compare it to mine, where you can see in the last picture that there's about 1/4" extra width.

Not that there's anything wrong with yours, you could easily grind out a bit from where the firewall comes out and level it out that way!

Ok, I see now yours is a bit wider. I guess I'll just grind my bracket down in the middle so it's flush against the firewall. So you basically just kept the same angle as the stock indent.. which makes sense! Thanks for the help-

Yep, exactly! You got it.

BTW--since you have all the stuff off your car, you might put an angle-finder on your firewall and find out exactly what that angle is. I was forced to guestimate since i couldn't fit an angle-finder in that space. I'm confident mine turned out right, but that may have been luck

Yeah, I just winged it. It looked close enough, if I have problems I can always shim it out some more. I welded it up today, going to clean it up and touch up a few spots tomorrow. Then hopefully I'll be ready to drop the new motor in!

Awesome! You're lucky you got to do that while the motor was out...mine was a real b**** to weld like that

I got the fitting this afternoon and buttoned everything up. HOLY CRAP is it smooth now! Before, i was reminded of an old Mustang i had (cable clutch). Now, even with the 7/8 master, it feels like a Honda Civic clutch.

Of course, for all you with fully working setups you already know all this, but i've had these issues for as long as i've had the car...so this is a revelation for me

There is a tiny amount of movement in the firewall (like .5mm) on the top side, but i think it will be fine for now. I don't know what it was like before. I'll keep an eye on it and see if i need to reinforce more later. Until then, it's time for a nice spring drive!

Bringing an old thread back to life here.

As my luck would have it, things went from GREAT to craptastic in just a few short months. I pulled it apart to look at it and sure enough, there was fluid beginning to seep out the back of the new Tilton master. I took it apart and the cylinder wall was already showing wear.

I ended up purchasing one of these to try:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

It fits! **angels singing**
(Note: i have my shock towers massaged...i doubt it will fit without massaging, but it is not impossible like the Tilton & Wilwood masters i tried)

WALL OF TEXT:
I don't think the flaw is in my repair in this case, i truly think the problem is with these stubby master cylinders. They just can't handle ANY kind of angle. The "cup" that pushes the fluid is at the very back of the piston, so as soon as you apply any angle it distorts the cup. Compare that to a standard master cylinder design (http://www.chetscoins.com/1929/images/1929%20MasterCyl_Dig01.jpg) where the piston is separate from the cup and you can see why a stubby master would fail so much quicker.

The CNC master is a "heavy duty" steel cylinder with a composite/plastic piston pushing the cup. The Tilton i removed was an aluminum cylinder with a steel piston. The steel started wearing the aluminum, naturally.

I also added a "P" brace to this master at the very tip. Basically i bolted a piece of steel to the inner fender below the master, then rolled it up and around the master cylinder and welded it to form a "P".

I should also add that the CNC master will probably fit without the firewall modifications i made, though i would definitely recommend making a "P" brace if you went that route!