944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Techno Duck's LS1 conversion

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Post  Lemming Wed Feb 26, 2014 9:26 am

zeusrotty wrote:
Lemming wrote:I contacted obp and asked if they had one that would be a good fit for the 944.  

I'm pretty sure you could fabricate it in there.  Just like any other.

They sent me drawings of the universal fit, it would work. Biggest issue I see is that the pedal ratio is only 5:1 and is not adjustable.
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Post  zeusrotty Wed Feb 26, 2014 1:22 pm

What is ideal? There is another company that has 6:1 that has the same basic design. I think the first picture is there unit. Compbrakes is the name of the company.

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Post  Lemming Wed Feb 26, 2014 3:43 pm

zeusrotty wrote:What is ideal? There is another company that has 6:1 that has the same basic design. I think the first picture is there unit. Compbrakes is the name of the company.

The original ratio for the porsche pedal is 4.25:1.  Moving the pushrod pivot point up 0.75" makes the ratio 6:1 and that is what I'm currently using.  I can tell you that with a DMC, even at 6:1, you have to apply lots of pressure to the brake pedal to get the car to stop.

Compbrakes is 5:1 as well.
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Post  Rich L. Wed Feb 26, 2014 4:14 pm

I have my Tilton pedals set at their highest ration, 5.75:1. The brakes feel good but the clutch is heavy with the 1" master I had to use to get good release.

Rich
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Post  zeusrotty Wed Feb 26, 2014 4:54 pm

So are you saying we want it closer to original? Or the higher the better?

From compbrake description.


Our light weight range dual brake master cylinder bias controlled pedal boxes have been designed to offer the driver the highest level of efficiency in this critical area. The ergonomic fabricated pedals, together with low friction and high quality oil impregnated spherical bearings set new standards in pedal box design. This unique 6:1 pedal ratio floor mounted cockpit fit hi-efficiency pedal system design allows an incredibly easy installation. This system needs no cutting of holes, or modification of any type. The pedal box fits to the floor pan and is designed pacifically for this type of car. The cylinders are mounted under the driver's feet for optimum space utilization and access. This is the only floor mounted 6:1 pedal ratio pedal box on the market that is designed specifically for this type of car. This system is perfect for Drifting, Rally cars, Time Attacks, Track Days or Fast Road cars.

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Post  Lemming Wed Feb 26, 2014 5:08 pm

I don't think I could get my car to stop if I used something close to factory. I wouldn't mind something like 7:1.
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Post  zeusrotty Wed Feb 26, 2014 5:21 pm

I see... And yet you can still do well on the track with the 6:1 so this actually is a good option.

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Post  944convert Wed Feb 26, 2014 6:03 pm

btw...thanks for hi-jacking Techno Ducks LS1 conversion...can we please return to the originally scheduled forum thread now in progress?

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Post  zeusrotty Thu Feb 27, 2014 12:40 am

It was meant to be another alternative for the OP. May I now take this time to apologize to ye all mighty 944convert for my crimes against internettity... We're all here to learn help and discover. So pipe down sparky.

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Post  Techno Duck Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:42 pm

Did the first auto-x with the 951 today in probably 3 years now. The car feels awesome! It was a great shake down event also. I am amazed how well the car felt and performed, a big confidence booster with it. I am going to do another event in 2 weeks, after that i figure it will be ready for some DE events.

Thom swapped in the AOR gearbox and the car now shifts perfectly. I guess its not the end of the world because the LSD is basically a requirement for this car now. Traction was an issue, but the tires are over 4 years old and have been heavily abused previously. And it was pretty damn cold today also.

Still only went half throttle at most with it for a brief second and its fast as hell! The powerband is so usable, it will be great perfecting the use of throttle to rotate the car.. something i really wasn't able to do with the turbo.

I am really amazed how the car felt. Have to be careful with the throttle, but other than that it feels no different than it did previously. Brakes performed great and steering felt right on. Overall very happy with how the car is performing after we worked out all the bugs.

It draws tons of attention also, i was answering questions about it all day. Every time i started it, everyone stops and looks..  Cool. My favorite comment of the day was "the ground shook when you drove by".

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Heading out of town for a few days, but this weekend hope to finish installing the 914 headlight motor and start cleaning up the wiring under the hood.

Techno Duck

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Post  944convert Sun Mar 09, 2014 9:07 pm

Great stuff....I've been told to "pipe down sparky" so guessing we shouldn't keep my/our questions specifically about your build  Wink ...ok...flame suit on...and btw...welcome home.

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Post  zeusrotty Sun Mar 09, 2014 10:51 pm

944convert wrote:Great stuff....I've been told to "pipe down sparky" so guessing we shouldn't keep my/our questions specifically about your build  Wink ...ok...flame suit on...and btw...welcome home.


I said SHHHHHH.

Very nice car. Glad you are happy!

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Post  thom Mon Mar 10, 2014 6:54 am

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Some inside video of Jon's car in action.
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Post  Techno Duck Sat Mar 15, 2014 10:22 pm

Stuck the .7" master cylinder back in today. Shifting is still perfect, so plenty of fluid displaced for proper disengagement.

Honestly i think it really comes down to personal preference on where you want the clutch engagement to be. The .7" engages maybe 2" off the floor, id say around 30-40% of pedal travel. The .75" engaged around 60-70% as i remember. So both will do. I am so used to the engagement being higher up, my E36 M3 for example catches around the last inch or so of travel. I am going to leave the .7" in though... too lazy to change it out again! Ill get used to it i am sure.

Anyhow here is a picture of the master cylinder mounted. I made a few alterations to make it very easy to replace. The coupling nuts for example make it super easy to remove, all that is needed is a 10mm flex socket and a long extension. 944convert has a new version of the mounting bracket which should make installation much easier, it requires minimal alterations to the master cylinder now.

I replaced all of the fittings last month, its a little cumbersome but it was the best i could do locally. What you see is basically $50 in fittings  Crying or Very sad . Anyhow it can definitely be simplified, but i was lucky to find all of this stuff locally on a saturday morning.

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Going to try and get some more miles on it tomorrow. I am hoping to have it tuned sometime later in the week, maybe thursday or friday.

Techno Duck

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Techno Duck's LS1 conversion - Page 8 Empty fittings

Post  Tehone Sun Mar 16, 2014 2:53 pm

Nice job!!!

I just got my up dated adapter from 944convert and was wondering about the long hex nuts.  Picture tells a whole lot.

Now please enlighten us to all the fittings and sizes that make up this neat package.

Getting ready to get all this mounted up myself.

Great info on the m/c sizes... I have the .7 and .75 m/c's as well but couldn't decide which to go with.


Last edited by Tehone on Sun Mar 16, 2014 2:56 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : more)

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Post  944convert Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:56 pm

Techno Duck wrote: The .7" engages maybe 2" off the floor, id say around 30-40% of pedal travel. The .75" engaged around 60-70% as i remember. So both will do.

The coupling nuts for example make it super easy to remove, all that is needed is a 10mm flex socket and a long extension.
And I guess the take away from this post is you don't need a 13/16" or 7/8" bore (and huge left leg muscles) to get the clutch pedal feel 'in the zone'. Of course, the reservoir is removed to give a clearer view of the set up.

But yeah...please comment on those fittings.

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Post  Techno Duck Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:40 pm

You need to go from a 3/8 -24 female to a -4AN female. It may be different for different applications, but i am using a Mcleod -4AN with quick disconnect clutch hose.

Also remember, all of these fittings should be steel due to the pressure on them.

-4AN clutch hose with quick disconnect for C5 / F-Body throwout bearing
I used a 23" long hose this was the exact length for how mine is routed along the firewall, may want to go a little bit longer to play it safe!
Summit Racing: 139204-23

-4AN Male to 3/8 -24 Male inverted flare
This was the fitting i could not find locally, i could only find a -3AN so i had to use a -4AN to -3AN adapter
Jegs: 555-100761

-4AN Female to -4AN Male 90 degree
Jegs: 361-966304

Also i highly recommend getting the remote bleeder line from Tick Performance with the speed bleeder. This makes bleeding the clutch a one man operation that takes about 10 minutes. Everything can be done from the top also!

This is the fluid reservoir i am using, it fits nicely even with all the hydroboost stuff.

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Last edited by Techno Duck on Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:54 pm; edited 1 time in total

Techno Duck

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Post  Techno Duck Sun Mar 16, 2014 8:52 pm

Changed the oil today, just FYI the oil pan holds around 6-qts. After letting it run a few minutes at idle it was a little low so i figure closer to 6.5-qts to fill. I also prefilled the oil filter which took almost a quart! I am using the Motorcraft FL-1A which is one big ass oil filter!

So basically ill be planning on 8qt oil changes on it for now on.

Also regarding the master cylinder, put two 5/16-24 thread nuts on and jam them together. This will make adjusting the pushrod much easier...previously i was using a pair of long needle nose pliers with the tip wrapped in electrical tape so i didnt damage the threads. This allows you to just use a wrench instead...much easier!

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Glamor shot from earlier...

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Post  Techno Duck Mon Mar 17, 2014 5:27 pm

Plugged in a code scanner and was surprised to see i had two codes active. I told the shop that had done all of the initial wiring to hookup the engine harness CEL trigger to the low oil level light in the cluster. It should be as easy as connecting the trigger wire from the PCM to pin 8 on the flat 8 pin connector in the foot well. Anyhow the light works with the ignition, but i do not think is hooked up.

Anyhow i had two codes active, P0102 for MAF circuit low input and P0481 for cooling fan relay 2 and 3.

Now the 481 one just needs to be turned off, but i couldnt figure out the 102 code. I tried cleaning the MAF first with no luck. The wiring for the MAF plug was extended about 12 inches to reach under the nose panel. I was not particularly impressed with the original wiring job done on the car so i cut open all the insulation and heat shrink to look at the connections. The solders were mediocre at best, but were not the issue.

Two nights ago i was reading a thread on LS1 Tech about the P0102 code. One guy mentioned he had bought a 3 wire to 5 wire MAF adapter plug and the +5v and ground were reversed. I checked my plug and sure as $#** those two wires were mixed up! I double checked with a multimeter also, but the two pins were mixed up on the connector. This was a brand new PSI engine harness purchased about 2 years ago.

Anyway, depinned the connector, swapped the two leads and redid the extension wires. Started it up and cleared the codes. Drove home 20 miles and its gone for good now. The car runs even better than it was before.. the bucking / lurching at low RPM part throttle is much reduced. Really hoping to see an improvement on fuel economy also now the MAF is actually working and its not stuck on speed density.

The black and pink were mixed up.

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I have also started the satisfying task of cutting out all the original wiring not needed anymore in the engine bay.

I started with the 14 pin connector that is infront of the fuse box on the firewall. I only need 3 pins on this connector; 2 for the oil pressure sender and 1 for the temp gauge. This harness also contains the DME diagnostic port. So i eliminated a bundle of 14 wires so far along the firewall.

The next task is to cut out all the wiring along the drivers side frame rail that is not needed, off the top of my head its the two fan plugs, fan switch connector and the turbo waterpump.

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And just FYI, all of the wiring related issues i have faced were a result from the first shop that did all of the initial plumbing and wiring. Just to clear things up, Thom and his shop had no part in any of that; other than fixing alot of the sloppy work that was done by the other place.

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Post  Techno Duck Thu Mar 20, 2014 6:43 pm

Tackled the remaining oil leaks today.

Thanks to Thom for letting me borrow his 1" flare crowfoot. Loosening the two fittings on the pan would not be easy without it.

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Here are the conical seals i had mentioned earlier. They are basically very thin aluminum and help make up any imperfections on the flare seats.

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I suspect the fittings may have been overtightened on my car which likely damaged the seats. So these seals are helpful for cases like that. Here i have the seal in place, just need to screw the fitting back on.

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Idled the car for about 15 minutes, so far so good! Wrapped everything that comes remotely close to the headers in thermal sleeves also.

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Post  Techno Duck Sun Mar 23, 2014 10:29 pm

Ran another auto-x today. Still have some nagging oil drips, but other than that the car is running great with just under 700 miles.

It looks like atleast one of the fittings is leaking from the swivel joint, so i am guessing a bad o-ring in the fitting. Ive decided when i get home again in mid April i am going to replace all of the oil hoses with Aeroquip fittings and stainless braided hose put together at a local fitting / hose specialty shop. This way i can rule out the quality of the fittings and any potential assembly issues from doing it myself.

I also swapped out the master cylinders again over the weekend. I have the .75" bore back in and i personally would recommend this one. I found the .7" engagement point is too close to the floor for my liking. The .75" bore brings engagement to just over half of the pedal travel which i prefer. I also made some adjustments to the pushrod, i realized i had set it way too tight with no preload at all. As everything heats up i think it was starting to preload the throwout bearing giving some strange clutch engagement. I now have it set like the original factory spec of 1-2mm freeplay at the pedal and did not have any problems after driving it all day.

I also plan to add a 1/4" spacer behind the gas pedal to bring it up slightly. Ive noticed with the hydroboost the pedal travel for braking is a little bit shorter than with the vacuum booster. So my foot ends up a bit too high to comfortably heal toe in the car like i am used to. I am going to cut some 1/4" spacers from some aluminum bar stock to place inbetween the plastic pedal and stainless pedal covers. The brakes felt fantastic though, no other complaints.

I hope to get the tuning done when i get home again in a few weeks, shop is currently in the process of moving the dyno.

Really looking forward to doing a DE with the car, still unsure when my work schedule will allow though. Hopefully before the end of spring!


Last edited by Techno Duck on Sun Mar 23, 2014 10:37 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  944convert Sun Mar 23, 2014 10:35 pm

Techno Duck wrote:The .75" bore brings engagement to just over half of the pedal travel which i prefer.
I think you nailed it.

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Post  Techno Duck Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:16 pm

After about two months i finally got around to putting in the 914 headlight motor today.

Install was quite easy. The wiring is fairly simple though i did run into the issue of the 914 headlight motor cycling twice for open and close. The 914 motor is a little bit faster cycling than the 944 motor, so i put two diodes inbetween where i spliced for the 914 trigger wires and the headlight motor connector. I had already put diodes on the trigger wires leading to the 914 motor.

For future reference; here is the pinout on the 944 connector...

Pin 1 - Red / Black : 12v
Pin 2 - Brown : ground
Pin 3 - Red / Green : trigger
Pin 4 - Yellow / Blue : trigger

I simply spliced the 12v and two trigger wires for the 914 motor. Ground wire is connected to frame rail. I put a 10amp fuse inline on the 12v just to be safe.

The 914 headlight motor works great though and fits perfect. It does cycle a little faster than the 944 motor. I suppose if one was super anal you could swap in a 914 motor on the passenger side also Smile.

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I also installed this shift linkage arm from Only944 today.

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It made quite a big difference in how the shifter feels. It removed some of the play and also gave the shifter a bit more force where it 'springs back' to center. I really like how it shifts now. I am still running the original shift linkage, have not reinstalled the short throw linkage yet, i am quite happy with how it shifts now so ill probably just run this configuration for now. Also installed the shift lever from Only944 that utilizes the torrington bearings to remove the play between the lever and shifter rod. Highly recommended!

Install of the linkage arm is not easy though with the transmission installed. There is very little clearance to work and the trans cooler loop and VSS mounting bracket do not make things any easier. The most difficult part was reinstalling the retaining clip for the ball joint. A pair of long needle nose pliers is a must.

Was hoping to have the car tuned today but things didnt work out with the tuner. Rescheduled for next week, likely friday. I also ordered the AN fittings so i can redo all of the oil lines... Aeroquip everything basically. Thankfully Amazon has most of what i needed in stock (gotta love Prime also!). Saved between $2-3 per fitting compared to Summit.. that made purchasing everything a little less painfull!

Heading to the Hershey swap meet tomorrow morning, looking forward to the drive out. Also looking forward to representing the swapped cars, hope to see some others also!

Techno Duck

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Post  chadfjones Sat Apr 19, 2014 11:38 am

So how is that 914 motor attached? Is it just the visible bolts on the top of the rail or did you have to make a bit of a bracket for it?

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Post  haroldk Sat Apr 19, 2014 3:42 pm

chadfjones wrote:So how is that 914 motor attached?  Is it just the visible bolts on the top of the rail or did you have to make a bit of a bracket for it?

The 914 motor attaches the same way the 944 does with 3 bolts. I attached mine using the existing hole in the bracket and drilled 2 more.
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