944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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I need to replace my radiator

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944-LT1
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Post  Rich L. Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:05 pm

My 944 was a spec racer and has a similar "belly pan" underneath. It's plastic and starts at the radiator, same width as the rad, and extends back to the oil pan. The fins on the 4 cylinder pan are still exposed, but no air pressure from under the car gets up behind the radiator. It remains to be seen how this works with the v8 in there.

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Post  Dawgz83948 Tue Nov 15, 2011 5:10 pm

I use the 3.8l Ford fan that is shrouded and cover the entire ron davis radaitor. Mine leaked too, but I took it to a radiator shop and they used plastic weld on it. Hasn't leaked since. Ohh that 3.8l fan has a low speed setting and a high speed (high speed is supposedly good to 4000cfm) and I've never had the high speed turn on. You can tie the low speed and high speed to your ECU and them tie the high speed to your A/C.

BTW the 3.8l fan REQUIRES the radiator to be installed at an angle.
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Post  docwyte Tue Nov 15, 2011 5:12 pm

That's how my stock 951 fans work. High speed tied to the A/C, ECU running both low and high speeds.

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Post  acorad Tue Nov 15, 2011 5:25 pm

Thanks guys.

I'm still trying to figure out how to best cool the car at idle/low speeds with the A/C on.

My engine has an aftermarket crank pulley that measures about 6" in diameter, which seems to be the same diameter as the water pump pulley.

From what I've been reading, for best cooling it's recommended that the crank pulley be about 1/3 larger than the water pump pulley.

Does anyone know the diameter of the stock crank pulley? I can't seem to google an answer...
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Post  944-LT1 Tue Nov 15, 2011 6:39 pm

Stock = 7.5 inches at the grooves.

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Post  acorad Tue Nov 15, 2011 7:11 pm

Thanks 944-LT1. So oem is 25% larger.

I think I'm in the market for an oem crankshaft pulley/harmonic dampener. And some new belts I guess...
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Post  acorad Wed Nov 23, 2011 12:16 pm

Can anyone identify this thermostat? I need a new one. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
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Post  aixgelo78 Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:46 pm

it looks similar to street and performance.

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Post  Lemming Wed Nov 23, 2011 7:37 pm

aixgelo78 wrote:it looks similar to street and performance.

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1/3 of the way down

Do you have a part number from that site? I can never find anything there, worst website EVER!

I've been looking for a good swivel water neck.
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Post  acorad Wed Nov 23, 2011 8:00 pm

Thanks, excellent!

Mine does look like the swivel necks on page 11, section D (97-03) where the t-stat is held in place by the force of the spring against a bar on the t-stat that hooks into notches on the two posts.

I guess they must sell that specific style of t-stat separately, no?
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Post  aixgelo78 Thu Nov 24, 2011 9:33 pm

Lemming wrote:
aixgelo78 wrote:it looks similar to street and performance.

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Do you have a part number from that site? I can never find anything there, worst website EVER!

I've been looking for a good swivel water neck.

no part #, but yes, for the $$$ amount they sell, that site is one of the worst.

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Post  acorad Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:12 am

Thanks aixgelo78, I just ordered a new t-stat from street and performance. It's a "twist in" t-stat, never saw one like that before.
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Post  acorad Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:39 pm

Hi all, what t-stat housing are you using with the 951 rad?

The housing (pic above) that I've been using with my previous RH rad sticks out too much and is in the way of the 951 fans.
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Post  rooster Thu Sep 20, 2012 2:52 pm

I use the stock LS1 t-stat housing and t-stat with a 951 rad. Works fine. I think I bought one of the rad hoses mentioned in the manual and just cut it to fit. It's a bit snug, meaning there is not a lot of flex left in the hose but the motor does not move much - if any due to solid mounts so no issues.

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Post  acorad Thu Sep 20, 2012 5:09 pm

Thanks rooster, googling around I can't find a pic of a 'stock' housing, I guess there are a bunch of different housings.

Do you have a pic of the installation?

If not I'll just mount the rad and see if I can find a housing to fit. Or maybe I'll cut down the one I have now.
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Post  docwyte Thu Sep 20, 2012 5:12 pm

Stock housing will fit fine. I had it with the 951 radiator and the RD radiator...

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Post  rooster Thu Sep 20, 2012 8:05 pm

I'll try and take a pic tomorrow. Basically the neck or water outlet will stick out to the pass. side of the engine parallel to the ground. Here's google images search that should help: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]


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Post  acorad Fri Sep 21, 2012 12:39 pm

Thanks Rooster, is this a stock housing?:

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Post  Rich L. Fri Sep 21, 2012 1:35 pm

That is not a stock housing. I'm running this thermostat:

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Post  acorad Fri Sep 21, 2012 2:27 pm

thx Rich.
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Post  acorad Wed Sep 26, 2012 5:05 pm

Just sheared off the 3/8" Grade 8 shaft of my (McGuivered/McMaster-Carr)harmonic balancer install tool.

Then I googled around and found out my (new full-size) harmonic balancer was already seated correctly. That when the HB is fully seated, the nose of the crankshaft is recessed slightly into the balancer bore, it's not flush with the end of the balancer bore as I was trying to do...

From the service manual [my bolds]:


1. Install the used crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt to 330 N•m (240 lb ft).
2. Remove the used crankshaft balancer bolt.

Important:

The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.40-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore.

3. Measure for a correctly installed balancer. If the balancer is not installed to the proper dimensions, install the J 41665 and repeat the installation procedure.
4. Install the NEW crankshaft balancer bolt. Tighten
a. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a first pass to 50 N•m (37 lb ft).
b. Tighten the crankshaft balancer bolt a second pass to 140 degrees using the J 36660-A .
5. Remove the J 42386-A .
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Post  acorad Tue Oct 02, 2012 6:04 pm

rooster wrote:I use the stock LS1 t-stat housing and t-stat with a 951 rad. Works fine. I think I bought one of the rad hoses mentioned in the manual and just cut it to fit. It's a bit snug, meaning there is not a lot of flex left in the hose but the motor does not move much - if any due to solid mounts so no issues.
I looked in the manual but I got no love from the hose numbers in there (Advance Auto upper rad hose E71751, lower rad hose C71695, M-4343 (3/4), M-4340 (5/8 ).

Anyone have the hose numbers for the hose that goes from the stock thermostat housing (the inlet sticks out at the 9:00PM position) to the lower 951 rad outlet on the passenger side?

And/or the hose numbers for the 90 degree hose that reduces in size from the metal cross-pipe (that's connected to the 90 elbow to the water pump outlet) to the upper rad inlet on driver's side?
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Post  Admin Tue Oct 02, 2012 9:09 pm

Lower is a 99' Firebird and the upper will need to be spliced

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Post  acorad Wed Oct 03, 2012 2:31 pm

Thx admin, where would I get a splice/reducer?

EDIT: Jags That Run has them.
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Post  acorad Fri Oct 05, 2012 1:38 pm

fwiw, HiProSpeed has 90 degree reducer rad hoses in a bunch of sizes: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
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