944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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I have no clue about brakes

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I have no clue about brakes Empty I have no clue about brakes

Post  bp944 Sat Aug 27, 2011 1:52 am

As of right now, I'm not putting the ls1 in yet (college budget and all) but I plan on it next summer. The only problem is that my current brakes are going so I might as well upgrade to what I'll need with the ls1. I plan on daily driving and tracking this car. I hope to track the car quite often but we'll see. What are my options and prices for brakes. I know the 944 n/a brakes I have right now will not even come close to sufficing. I know for turbos brakes I need the turbo spindles but can/should I upgrade even farther.

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Post  a951 Sat Aug 27, 2011 5:49 am

944 na with na power and brakes works fine, just have a good set of pads and castrol SRF fluid.

theese cars have 0 power and are not that heavy, so not that heavy on the brakes.

even with 249RWHP on my old turbo engine, the stock brakes worked fine.

a951

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Post  Arthropraxis Sat Aug 27, 2011 7:45 am

The master cylinder options on these conversions are a bigger issue than the brake caliper size. The trend towards cross drilled and/or slotted rotors and huge six piston calipers is largely cosmetic. Turbo brakes should be fine on the street and until you get your speed up at the track. When you run out of brakes, then spend the money to upgrade.
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Post  a951 Sat Aug 27, 2011 8:05 am

Actually once you get up speed, and teqnique, you stress the brakes less, and less, and less as you have shorter and harder brakes, and higher corner speed. so a very experienced fast driver, will brake and stress them much less than a slow novice.

As for crossdrilled, unless its porsche oem I wouldnt use it on a track, they just clogg up, I work for a company offering track driving courses etc, after a long day at the nurburgring, I would sitt and drill/blow out dust from the holes as they caused vibrations.

Slotted eads pads more, but is usually the best for track.

a951

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Post  bp944 Sat Aug 27, 2011 10:48 am

I want to have my brakes converted for the ls1. So there's no reason I should update the n/a brakes if I'm just going to swap to a bigger set-up. So what I'm hearing is a complete stock turbo brake conversion (spindles, rotors, calipers) would be my best setup now. Should I consider slotted rotors or will those not function well for daily driving?

If I'm doing brake conversion, should I do that at the same time as a suspension overhaul? Might as well since everything will be apart? (I'm planning on doing it at some point soon).

bp944

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Post  robstah Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:30 am

bp944 wrote:I want to have my brakes converted for the ls1. So there's no reason I should update the n/a brakes if I'm just going to swap to a bigger set-up. So what I'm hearing is a complete stock turbo brake conversion (spindles, rotors, calipers) would be my best setup now. Should I consider slotted rotors or will those not function well for daily driving?

If I'm doing brake conversion, should I do that at the same time as a suspension overhaul? Might as well since everything will be apart? (I'm planning on doing it at some point soon).

No need for slotted or drilled. Both, if done wrong, will end up cracking prematurely. I have yet to really see a benefit to them. All the track guys I know run blanks (a lot of them run 30 dollar/piece Chinese rotors too).

Definitely convert up. The turbo brakes should be the base line for this swap. They will make a difference.

Start researching the now available choices for master cylinder. You will need to replace your current one and remove the booster bowl in order to fit the engine in. Here are your options:

Non-boosted Options:
- Stock master cylinder (highly unrecommended)
- Wilwood tandem brake master cylinder
- Dual Tilton master cylinders /w linkage and bracket

Boosted Options:
- Ford Mustang/BMW Hydroboost
- Electric boost

The hydroboost and electric based boosting seem to be the popular ticket these days. There should be a decent amount of information on here about them.

As for your suspension and brake install, just make sure you do the suspension first to save from getting dirt and grease on the rotors. If you are good enough, you should be able to do both in one sitting.

robstah

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Post  bp944 Sat Aug 27, 2011 3:46 pm

I found a seller parting out his car but only has the front turbo setup. Am I alright having only the fronts as turbo's and rears as n/a? Will I run into troubles with suspension then?

bp944

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Post  xschop Sat Aug 27, 2011 4:22 pm

I have a solution for 87-up NA cars, but you'll need 17" wheels. I have not confirmed that 16" phone dials fit, but I suspect they do.... you can then use the Turbo brakes on the rear and have some real stopping power....

https://944hybrids.forumotion.com/t1148-wilwood-330mm-big-brake-kit-for-na-cars?highlight=wilwood
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Post  bp944 Sat Aug 27, 2011 4:56 pm

Would this price break down be right for wilwoods just on the fronts.

Wilwood calipers and pads: $350
Rotors: $145
Adapters: $230
17" Turbo twists: $600 (I found a pair used)
Master cylinder: ?
Total:

Is it even worth putting turbo's on the rear? Could I get away with N/A on the rears with the wilwood setup on the front? How much better are the wilwoods over the turbos's since its about a $300-$400
difference before the wheels? (the turbo brake conversion I found is $350 for just fronts).

bp944

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Post  xschop Sat Aug 27, 2011 5:09 pm

With your factory MC, just make sure you get the 1.62" piston Wilwoods. And you can run the NA's for now until you want to upgrade the rears later.
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Post  bp944 Thu Nov 24, 2011 2:36 pm

As far as choosing master cylinders, what are the pros and cons of each. I've looked through the forum and they explain how to setup but not to which system is better. Is there a major advantage to going electric/hydroboost? Are there setups that avoid clearance issues more than others?

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