944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Post  Luke714 on Sat Feb 26, 2011 7:45 pm

Hello all,

I know my problems with overheating were flogged to death in a previous thread. I have some very specific questions and theories this time that I need an opinion on, hopefully it won't be a directionless crap shoot this time. I got a ton of good ideas from that conversation, and now that it's spring break I'm putting some of the ideas to use. Below are two theories that I need some thoughts on.

-Currently I don't have the heater core hooked up, partly because I haven't taken the time to do it yet and partly because I can't find the H-valve Porch specified Sad I was told that I couldn't just block the ports off, and needed to connect them with a U-bend in the mean time. I did this, but I'm worried that this connection is too unrestricted and coolant is just flowing through this instead of the radiator? Thoughts on that?

-I don't have a thermostat at the moment, which I'm changing because I think that might be a problem as well. I was talking to the guys at LS1tech and one of them mentioned that the thermostat also closes off a bypass passage back into the block when it opens. Without a t-stat the WP would just recirculate the block because it's the path of least resistance. Either i need to put a t-stat back in or block the hole right behind where it used to be. Suspect However, the U-bend between the heater ports would connect the same two chambers this "bypass" hole would. That has added to my concern that this completely unrestricted U-bend may be the problem. Is this theory sound? I've been trying unsuccessfully to get a diagram of the internal flow passages of the WP, which would help.

Thanks for any help!

P.S. I think I also founds some areas that would create vapor lock, which I fixed. Since I'm running a Griffen radiator it had a filler cap on it below the heads. I cut the filler neck off and just put a steam vent tube on that is routed back to the expansion tank. Just like the stock turbo radiator has. The steam tube by the TB now also routes back to the expansion tank. The expansion tank also is now directly plumbed into the drivers side radiator tank. Hopefully these changes in addition to the ideas I mentioned above should solve my problem!
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Post  Porch on Sun Feb 27, 2011 10:59 am

Put the thermostat in, then worry about the rest of the stuff.
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Post  948 on Mon Feb 28, 2011 10:57 pm

Yeah, what ^ Porch ^ said.....
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Post  xschop on Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:21 am

I ran without a T-stat the end of the summer and never had an overheat issue because the heater ports were hooked up correctly (blocked off when heater valve closed). If they are looped you are absolutely correct as the coolant will just recirculate in the block if the rear port is not blocked off. I got even better cooling when I took the old T-stat and modded it to where the main port was constantly open and the rear plunger stayed put. I have a 160 t-stat that I'm going to run here in a few weeks and test that with the NA radiator when it gets over 90* ambient daily and I'll post back. So far it's the modded T-stat hands down.

On the LS engines,the T-stat lower plunger blocks the inner port hole (small red arrow) from recirculating hot fluid back into the incoming cold fluid from the radiator.....
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Post  xschop on Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:00 am

Hey Luke, you could machine a stepped plug and epoxy it in the rear port and cap the lines (if not running a heater). The coolant velocity thru the radiator will increase more than a modded T-stat. Just run a 75/25% mix of ethylene gylcol/water ratio as the BP will have to hit 255 degrees before cavitation could occur.
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Post  fliermike45 on Tue Mar 01, 2011 12:46 pm

I believe the heater valve specified is a Ready Aire 5930, I just purchased one on line from Autozone.
The Autozone part number is 74781, brand is Everco, $11.99

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Post  Porch on Tue Mar 01, 2011 2:12 pm

There's just no reason to run without a thermostat, and it has been proven to cause issues. It didn't cause issues for xschop, but the the exception doesn't make the rule.
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Post  Luke714 on Wed Mar 02, 2011 8:33 am

wow, thanks for all the replies guys. Sorry I haven't been able to check back in for a few days. I hope everyone else's build is going well!

Ok, it's good to have someone back up what I thought was the case with the heater ports/bypass valve. Thanks for the part number also! Until I get the heater hooked up I'll block off the heater ports instead of having my U-bend. Since I bought a CSR T-stat housing I can't run a t-stat. To solve this problem I'm doing some pretty simple machining to make an adapter plate that fits between the WP and T-stat housing to allow me to install the t-stat correctly. Obviously when I first took it out I didn't fully understand all the consequences. If I have trouble with the engine running hot at auto-x's ect then I'll try gutting the t-stat.

I've already made the mod's to the radiator as well, and they look pretty good even though it was my first time welding Al. I'll post pics soon! I should have everything put back together by this weekend, I'll let you guys know then!

Cheers,
Luke
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Post  xschop on Wed Mar 02, 2011 9:00 am

Luke, checked my notes and the inner lip of the CSR thermostat adapter has to be stepped down another 0.0625" for the LS thermostat lower plunger to seat on that inner port......BTDT
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Post  Porch on Wed Mar 02, 2011 9:08 am

What kind of problems are you having with the CSR t-stat? I had to do this with mine, took maybe three minutes:

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...and i don't have overheating problems Razz
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Post  xschop on Wed Mar 02, 2011 9:28 am

The adapter base that the swivel neck bolts to holds the LS T-stat lower plunger seat 0.05" to far away from the inner port and allows that hot block fluid to recirculate instead of pushing it to the radiator. I posted about this CSR adapter before. After I re-machined mine, I took the old truck T-stat and modded it to where the main port was constantly open and the lower plunger remained seated at that inner port. I got the best cooling in that configuration.
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Post  xschop on Wed Mar 02, 2011 9:44 am

Love having to redesign someone else's brainfart Razz

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Post  fliermike45 on Wed Mar 02, 2011 4:34 pm

I'm following the LS1 plumbing schematic published on the Griffin Web Site.

Here are the mods I made to my Griffin Radiator, I cut off the filler neck then closed it off.
Its relief pipe was used for the steam tube fitting. The other fitting was from by bits box, a AN fitting.

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Post  Luke714 on Wed Mar 02, 2011 7:19 pm

lol, I wish I had thought to look at Griffin's website. I'll have to take a look once I'm not on dial-up Mad It's alright though because it looks like you did almost exactly what I did to my radiator. Your welds look nicer, but mine hold pressure at least! Cool. I'll let you guys know how everything turns out, thanks for the suggestions. You can keep em coming, but I've got enough to work from hopefully! I'll be testing this weekend hopefully. I can't wait for all the snow to disappear, we've got plastered in Maine this winter. Figures that this is the spring I want to get my car out early, oh well.

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Post  Luke714 on Fri Mar 04, 2011 1:39 pm

Here's what I did to add a thermostat to my CSR housing. I'm sure that I could have filed the edges off and gotten it to fit, but I was a little worried about creating unnecessary restriction. Instead I just added a spacer plate.

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Post  Porch on Fri Mar 04, 2011 4:03 pm

That's a good way to do it, but not many of us have those machining capabilities.

I thought maybe mine was just a one-off problem, and i even emailed CSR to tell them they needed to fix their design. Kind of a shame that the only product on the market like that doesn't even fit a thermostat...
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Post  fliermike45 on Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:30 pm

If you look at an earlier thread on this subject there are pictures showing my solution.
I took the stock water outlet and cut the neck off. If you are handy and patient you could file and sand the cut face true. Easier to have a machine shop do it.

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Post  Luke714 on Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:44 pm

I thought maybe mine was just a one-off problem, and i even emailed CSR to tell them they needed to fix their design. Kind of a shame that the only product on the market like that doesn't even fit a thermostat...

no kidding
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Post  Admin on Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:59 pm

Why not just use the factory LS thermostat housing?, works fine for me and if you need 160 degrees stat it's available as well. Cool

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Post  Luke714 on Sun Mar 06, 2011 9:25 pm

The way the belt is routed it interferes unless I made a pretty big spacer to keep it away from the block. When I bought the CSR I didn't think I would have trouble putting in a thermostat.

Yeah, we'll see how the 180* works. Maybe during the summer I'll get a cooler one.
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