944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Post  phlip Mon Apr 20, 2015 3:48 pm

according to alldata for my 02 camaro ls1 there only 2 wires going to alt.
large red is B+ from battery, other is small red from PCM terminal 61 on connector 2
that says "generator turn on".
I don't use the blue wire in stock wiring harness, the harness I had made from Speartech
turns on the field for alt through the pcm. I have the blue wire in stock harness terminated to nothing and my car charges and charge light goes out when engine is started. Not sure why though.
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Post  phlip Mon Apr 20, 2015 3:50 pm

Oh, and alldata says it is terminal "L" on alt.
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Post  docwyte Fri May 01, 2015 2:19 pm

Success! Since I finally was able to wire past the alarm ECU, so the charge light circuit would work, I could now play with the wiring to the alternator. Turns out the two wires were just transposed, once we flip flopped them, the charge light popped on! Woohoo! Wiring is complete! Car is now fully sorted!

Well, until I break something...

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

docwyte

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Post  docwyte Mon May 04, 2015 4:42 pm

So when I finally think I have everything done, the car bites back.

Picked up a neighbor today in the car, plan is to drive out to HPR, where One Lap has stopped and check everything out.

He gets in my car, I go down the block and back, put the clutch in and the car dies. Won't restart, won't bump start.

I've determined that the fuel pump isn't running. I initially thought my friend had somehow jostled my aux relay/fuse block that's mounted down in the passenger foot well and knocked a wire off the fuel pump relay.

I just removed the fuse block and I can't see anything loose or missing, all fuses are good. Car still won't start. Fuel pump is relatively new.

WTF?

docwyte

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Post  docwyte Mon May 25, 2015 10:24 pm

Got the wiring fixed, it was the ignition power wire to that aux fuse/relay block. Moved the aux fuse block to the glovebox to keep it out of harm from passengers feet.

Car seems to be at 100% now, future plans are that IFC fiberglass cowl induction hood and a Brooks Motorsports rear wing.

docwyte

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Post  docwyte Mon Jun 22, 2015 10:10 am

Well, since these are project cars and the project never really ends...

Went to the track this past Saturday for the first time this season. I'd been a little worried about the placement of my oil cooler. I thought that putting it in front of the radiator could elevate the water temps, which is something I certainly don't need help with!

Turns out I was right to be worried, while it was a hot day, water temps were higher than before. Drat! Looks like I'll be going back to my old setup where it was mounted parallel to the ground just below the passenger fog light hole and I duct air down through it.

Boxster ABS brakes work! That was a real surprise and now I have to relearn my braking technique as I haven't had working ABS in the car until now. With the hydroboost there's very little brake pedal stroke and if you jump too hard on the brakes you can actually get the ABS ECU to go into "Ice" mode, where the brakes basically stop working.

Also discovered that only one of my radiator fans is working on "High" speed. Not sure if the other fan is dead, wiring to it is broken or what, but that's another thing to sort out...

New motor works great! Tons of power and torque, ran smoothly all day. Had another 951 one check out my car, his Lindsey Racing 2.8l blew a head gasket at the very least and it was the third motor in his car. That validates my LS swap right there....

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Post  Sterling Doc Mon Jun 22, 2015 11:05 am

You may be hot from more power. Twisted Evil Ducting is really key. Make sure all the air that comes in must go through the radiator. Venting the hood can help as well. I'd try these things before moving the cooler.

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Post  docwyte Mon Jun 22, 2015 11:30 am

Already vented the hood and built custom ducting. So those bases are covered. I shouldn't have mounted a gigantic oil cooler in front of the radiator...

docwyte

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Post  Sterling Doc Mon Jun 22, 2015 12:41 pm

Sounds like you are doing it all the right (hard) way!

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Post  docwyte Tue Jun 30, 2015 9:25 am

So I ordered two more hood vents that I'm going to place much closer to the center line and just behind the radiator. Those should help pull air through the radiator.

Also going to move the oil cooler and go back to my old setup of mounting it parallel to the ground just below the passenger fog light opening and duct air down through it. I may add a 2nd cooler mounted the same way on the drivers side and run them in series.

What are you guys using for radiator fans? I have the RD radiator with 2 11" Spal fans (unshrouded fans) and they're not effective enough to control water temps if I get caught in stop n go traffic here in the summer. (100F temps).


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Post  Rich L. Tue Jun 30, 2015 10:44 am

Wizard rad with stock n/a fans. On the 100+ days down in eastern Oregon the cooling doesn't keep up and I have to back off after 3 or 4 hard laps.
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Post  docwyte Tue Jun 30, 2015 11:32 am

The water temps aren't stable on the street in stop n go at 100F ambient temps.

On the track, same as you, I get a few hard laps in, then have to back off. Hopefully moving the oil cooler back to its old spot will help, along with a few more hood vents...

It's just too damn hot up here and the thin air isn't doing me any favors.

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Post  zeusrotty Tue Jun 30, 2015 1:26 pm

You should do what I did Doc. That ebay scoop I showed you works very well.

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Post  Lemming Tue Jun 30, 2015 6:10 pm

I have a griffin with single 16" spal.  Mine does run hot in the summer, not enough to stop me going in a race, but I was not running the power that you do, that is until my next event Twisted Evil

I've not looked back through this thread, what does you cooling system look like (crude diagram might be helpful).  Ducting was the key for me, but maybe something is not hooked up right?
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Post  docwyte Wed Jul 01, 2015 8:23 am

I have the RD/RH radiator with 2 11" Spal fans. Still have the factory AC condenser in place. Two reverse louvered hood vents on the outboard side of the hood. Custom ducting to seal up the opening and force all air through the radiator. Large oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator.

Plan is to move the oil cooler and add two more louvered vents that sit more directly behind the radiator. Then add better CFM radiator fans and shroud them.

I'm trying to control water temps on the track as well as on the street when I get stuck in stop n go traffic. Street temps are fine as long as I'm not sitting in traffic at 100F temps...

docwyte

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Post  docwyte Fri Jul 10, 2015 8:31 pm

Got the car up to the shop this morning. They looked it over and here's the plan of attack on the oil/water temps.

#1 Move the current oil cooler out from in front of the radiator
#2 Go back to a side mounted oil cooler, most likely run two of them in series, one on either corner of the car.
#3 Build a shroud for the radiator fans
#4 Add two side mounted radiators
#5 Add two more reverse louver vents, more on the center line of the hood behind the main radiator

This should hopefully fix the issue of oil/water temps on track and in 100F stop n go traffic

docwyte

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Post  docwyte Wed Jul 22, 2015 11:10 am

OK, time for another update.

Two more reverse louver hood vents are on their way to the shop, they'll be mounted just behind the radiator to help pull air through.

I've decided to add one additional side mounted radiator right now, they're coming from C&R and well, cost is a bit of a factor. It'll be plumbed to run parallel to my current RD radiator and plumbing will be redone to eliminate all the 90 degree turns I currently have. This is a modular system and I can add another radiator if I need to. This will get custom ducted and get air from the fog light opening as well as the grill opening below the fog light.

On the other side will be my current PS cooler and a V mounted oil cooler that's 13x15. It'll be mounted behind the crash bar, so I'll gain some protection for it. Again custom sealed ducting from the fog light and grill opening.

Hopefully this takes care of water/oil temps while on track in altitude and close to triple digit ambient temps...

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Post  Lemming Fri Jul 24, 2015 3:22 pm

Hope this works for you.
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Post  docwyte Fri Jul 24, 2015 3:25 pm

Not much else I can do. I like the way the new shop is thinking, a bit outside the box. They build Porsche race cars and their comment on my cooling system is that while the RD radiator is thick, it doesn't have enough surface area. Hence the idea of going with an additional radiator, like how the Caymans add a third radiator for track work.

All I really need is a 20 degree change, gotta think adding a second radiator, plus better shrouding, plus hood vents, plus moving the oil cooler from in front of the main radiator will get me that.

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Post  948 Sun Jul 26, 2015 6:55 pm

Sounds like you are on the right track. Adding a second radiator worked well for me, though I am using the original Turbo radiator and I only sit in 100 degree traffic.

Though you may have covered this: How is your electrical system, specifically power to the oil and coolant gauges? All my gauges were reading high due to increased resistance in the positive and ground cables; a typical issue for these cars as the get older... Turning on my headlights would bump the oil temp up 20 degrees. A supplemental positive cable to the cabin helped this enormously.
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Post  docwyte Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:38 am

I'm running seperate water and oil temp gauges in the center console made by Autometer. Compared to OBD2 port readings the water temp gauge seems to read 10 degree high, but that may just be a difference in where the two sensors are.

I'm going back to my large 16" single Spal fan for the main radiator and will shroud it. Then we'll be using my current 11" Spal fans for the auxiliary radiator and the oil cooler, one fan on each, both tied into the main radiator fan so they'll get triggered by the PCM.

What auxiliary radiator did you end up using and where did you mount it?

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Post  Lemming Mon Jul 27, 2015 8:40 am

Yes, please post a few pics of extra radiator mounting.
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Post  948 Tue Jul 28, 2015 5:04 pm

My pictures disapeared with the previous 944 hybrid forum.....I can dig around a little if you like?

After pricing several custom radiators to fit in various locations I went searching for a cheap substitute to test out the idea of an aux radiator, without spending big money.....heater cores came to mind. Though I know they are not the best radiator, they are cost effective.
I found that the rear heater core from a 1995 E350 was almost a perfect fit, approximately 20 x 3 x 2. I took two, $50 each at the time, and stacked one behind the other and fit them in the area where my intercooler was. I was able to use the factory intercooler ducting and mounting points with some modification; that was about 4 years ago. It has worked so well that I can't see any good reason to replace them with a custom made radiator.

Google "9010001 heater core" for images
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Post  948 Wed Jul 29, 2015 4:35 pm

docwyte wrote:.I'm going back to my large 16" single Spal fan for the main radiator and will shroud it.
If your cooling issues are when you are at speed, on the track, I would advise against adding a shroud as it will only add more restriction to air flow.
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Post  docwyte Wed Jul 29, 2015 4:49 pm

Shop and I have talked about that. We need to strike a balance. Cooling issues right now are both on the street and at the track.

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