944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Tim's 944LS1 track car build!

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Tim's 944LS1 track car build!   Empty Tim's 944LS1 track car build!

Post  Lemming Tue May 31, 2011 3:00 pm

First post on this site, many may know me from Rennlist. I currently have a 1987 944S race car running a supercharged 968 engine. The chassis is well sorted but am having reliability issues with the SC, hence why I'm contemplating the swap. Ideally, I want 325 rwhp and similar torque with a 6500 rpm redline for my race class. Transmission is an S2 with LSD and short 5th (no cooler, yet).

1. I've been told that the 5.3 L33 is a great platform for this application. I hear these are cheap, but I'm not seeing any for the $500 I've heard discussed. Is the $500 price for the iron block 5.3's and not the L33? Is the L33 the best platform (bang for the buck!). The ones that I'm seeing have low miles and are close to $2,000.

2. I am running a manual steering rack and don't really want to bother adding a power steering pump to run the hydroboost. If I go with changing the pivot point on the pedal by 0.75", will I be happy? I am currently running Turbo S calipers in front and turbo/968 calipers in the rear. I also have and adjustable proportioning valve in the car. Other options?

3. I'm sure that I'll have many more questions, so thanks in advance.



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Last edited by Lemming on Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:48 am; edited 2 times in total
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Post  xschop Tue May 31, 2011 3:19 pm

Get the L33, it has the 4.8 flat-top pistons and makes higher compression. A set of long tubes and a ls6 or Fast intake with a tune and you are close (or exceed) to your #'s. If you can afford the extra 65 LBS up front, then get an ironblock 5.3 or better yet 6.0 from a truck.....$500 all day with the brains, wiring and low miles.
Get your swap parts from Eric @ TPC and sleep well at night knowing your TT won't explode on you and...... Welcome to the neighborhood. Very Happy
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Post  Lemming Tue May 31, 2011 9:00 pm

xschop wrote:Get the L33, it has the 4.8 flat-top pistons and makes higher compression. A set of long tubes and a ls6 or Fast intake with a tune and you are close (or exceed) to your #'s. If you can afford the extra 65 LBS up front, then get an ironblock 5.3 or better yet 6.0 from a truck.....$500 all day with the brains, wiring and low miles.
Get your swap parts from Eric @ TPC and sleep well at night knowing your TT won't explode on you and...... Welcome to the neighborhood. Very Happy

I'm not sure that I want the extra 65 lbs as that will mean that I'll need to add 65 to the rear to balance it.

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Post  robstah Tue May 31, 2011 9:51 pm

The $500 price tag that I have been throwing around is for the LM4, which is an LM7, but aluminum block. The L33 has caught the eye of swappers and has risen in price due to that. It's just like the 6.0L iron blocks that used to only be in the $500 range. You'd be lucky to find one under a grand now. The LM4 is a great compromise if you care about the added weight.

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Post  rdanford Tue May 31, 2011 10:30 pm

For brakes...look into the ABS Power Brakes (electric). I'm running them on my swap and the feel is great! No booster as the solenoids are hidden in the driver-side fender...Tom Egan (968LS1 on rennlist) has experience with them on the track too
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Post  robstah Tue May 31, 2011 10:38 pm

rdanford wrote:For brakes...look into the ABS Power Brakes (electric). I'm running them on my swap and the feel is great! No booster as the solenoids are hidden in the driver-side fender...Tom Egan (968LS1 on rennlist) has experience with them on the track too

I need to look into this too if I don't like the tandem brake setup.

OP, I did notice your power goal of 325rwhp. If you don't mind running premium, 325rwhp should be possible with a nice exhaust, tune, and maybe an LS6 cam and springs. The LS6 springs *new* go for 50-60 dollars a set and a used LS6 cam can be had for as low as 100 dollars. 325rwhp should be very easy to pull off and you'll love the torque as well.

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Post  Lemming Tue May 31, 2011 10:46 pm

rdanford wrote:For brakes...look into the ABS Power Brakes (electric). I'm running them on my swap and the feel is great! No booster as the solenoids are hidden in the driver-side fender...Tom Egan (968LS1 on rennlist) has experience with them on the track too

I'll give Tom a call, he is the one who suggested the L33 for the build.
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Post  Lemming Tue May 31, 2011 10:47 pm

robstah wrote:
rdanford wrote:For brakes...look into the ABS Power Brakes (electric). I'm running them on my swap and the feel is great! No booster as the solenoids are hidden in the driver-side fender...Tom Egan (968LS1 on rennlist) has experience with them on the track too

I need to look into this too if I don't like the tandem brake setup.

OP, I did notice your power goal of 325rwhp. If you don't mind running premium, 325rwhp should be possible with a nice exhaust, tune, and maybe an LS6 cam and springs. The LS6 springs *new* go for 50-60 dollars a set and a used LS6 cam can be had for as low as 100 dollars. 325rwhp should be very easy to pull off and you'll love the torque as well.

Is this with the L33, LM4 or either?
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Post  robstah Tue May 31, 2011 10:57 pm

Lemming wrote:Is this with the L33, LM4 or either?

Either. The L33 would help compression wise, but a cam does wonders on all these LS motors. Like I said, 325rwhp should be easy given a better exhaust, better tune, and a cam.

When I get mine up and running (hopefully soon), I'll take it to the dyno. I'll have a stock LM4 outside of the intake and exhaust.

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Post  Lemming Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:21 am

Is the modified oil pan that Eric sells sufficiently baffled for use on the track? I have had quite a few people tell me that I will need to put a dry sump system on the car, but that is an expense that I don't want to incur unless absolutely necessary.
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Post  docwyte Wed Jun 01, 2011 12:49 pm

I've been running Eric's pan on my car on track with no issues.

I haven't had a chance to see the electric boosted brakes, but kinda wish I'd gone with that setup vs the hydroboosted setup I do have. The electric setup is just so much cleaner...

A cam makes a huge difference on these motors. On my LS1 I had a 224/224 cam and dynoed 337rwhp, I then went with a 226/230 cam and dynoed 372rwhp. With the stock cam I think dyno #'s would've been around 300rwhp, so that's basically 100 crank hp gain from a cam!

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Post  Lemming Wed Jun 01, 2011 2:39 pm

docwyte wrote:I've been running Eric's pan on my car on track with no issues.

I haven't had a chance to see the electric boosted brakes, but kinda wish I'd gone with that setup vs the hydroboosted setup I do have. The electric setup is just so much cleaner...

A cam makes a huge difference on these motors. On my LS1 I had a 224/224 cam and dynoed 337rwhp, I then went with a 226/230 cam and dynoed 372rwhp. With the stock cam I think dyno #'s would've been around 300rwhp, so that's basically 100 crank hp gain from a cam!

Great, I have read your threads and picked up on the cams. Remember, I only need 325 rwhp and torque for ST2 (my car is very light) so the first setup you had would have worked for me.

This swap is looking like it is going to happen. Been looking for a nice L33 or LM4 and most of them are close to 2K (but have virtually no miles on them, 15K or less). To me, this doesn't sound like much (considering the cost of a well used 968 engine), but I keep hearing of these cheap LSx.
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Post  expuppy Wed Jun 01, 2011 6:42 pm

I would recommend the following in order ( or close to it);

Aluminum LSx engine & a cam
Move the pedal pivot- cheap and easy
Get larger diameter rotors and 6 piston calipers
Move the battery into the footwells in the rear. Run the cable through the rockers
Put in a roll cage if you dont have already.
18 inch wheels and at least 225/40 tires in front and 255/35 in rear

cold pressures ( this for a road course)

32 34
32.5 34


which should result in each one being around 40 psi when on track

these cars are SERIOUSLY fast and really need the bigger brakes. I have standard rotors and wilwood manual brakes and had flames shooting out of my front wheels at Summit point during the One Lap last month. I also deleted the torsion bar in the back and went with coilovers all four corners and a 31mm swaybar in the front.

you can check out video of my car at [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Pm me with a number if you need to discuss by phone. Welcome to the crazies.

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Post  robstah Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:40 pm

Lemming wrote:Great, I have read your threads and picked up on the cams. Remember, I only need 325 rwhp and torque for ST2 (my car is very light) so the first setup you had would have worked for me.

This swap is looking like it is going to happen. Been looking for a nice L33 or LM4 and most of them are close to 2K (but have virtually no miles on them, 15K or less). To me, this doesn't sound like much (considering the cost of a well used 968 engine), but I keep hearing of these cheap LSx.

The LM4 I picked up was marked at 110k miles and upon opening it, the motor from the inside looks brand new. Hell, it came out of a Buick Rainier and was probably granny'd its whole life. A friend of mine went the LM4 route as well and his had 70k miles on it and also looked brand new.

Check car-part.com for motors in your area. Just a quick look in Alabama shows that LKQ of Birmingham has one with 61k miles at 800 dollars. There is also another with less miles but by the description seems "broken and needs waterpump". The motor might just only need a waterpump and you need to replace that anyway. That one is going for 1000 dollars. If you don't mind a little travel, Georgia seems to have quite a few LM4s under the 1000 dollar mark as well. I'm one of the companies wouldn't mind shipping either.

It also looks like there are quite a few L33s under 1500 dollars in Alabama.

When searching, use "2004 - Buick Rainier - Engine - VIN P 5.3L" for the LM4 and "2005 - Chevy Truck-Silverado 1500 - Engine - VIN B 5.3L (L33)" for the L33.

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Post  xschop Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:39 pm

Someone please buy this before I crowd my shop anymore than it is already...

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Post  Lemming Thu Jun 02, 2011 7:40 am

expuppy-congrats on the one lap!

robstah-thanks for the link, there are a number of engines within driving distance, I'll be calling about two this morning.

xschop-not a bad deal, but I think it will be less time consuming if I just grab a complete engine with harness and brain.

The good news is that I'm pretty sure that I have buyers for both my 968 engines, so this swap appears to be financed Very Happy
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Post  Lemming Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:28 pm

The 968 engines are sold, after this weekend there will be a hole in the front end of my race car waiting to be filled cheers
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Post  Lemming Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:29 pm

rdanford wrote:For brakes...look into the ABS Power Brakes (electric). I'm running them on my swap and the feel is great! No booster as the solenoids are hidden in the driver-side fender...Tom Egan (968LS1 on rennlist) has experience with them on the track too

Talked to Tom today and he suggested going with the BMW hydroboost setup over the electric.
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Post  DVC Thu Jun 02, 2011 9:51 pm

Congrats. You'll enjoy more driving and less fixing.
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Post  Lemming Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:24 pm

DVC wrote:Congrats. You'll enjoy more driving and less fixing.

That's what I'm hoping!
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Post  DVC Fri Jun 03, 2011 8:22 am

With Tom's help it should be bullet proof Cool
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Post  Lemming Fri Jun 03, 2011 8:44 pm

Today I went shopping for an L33 and came home with an LS1 Surprised Time to get started!

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Post  DVC Fri Jun 03, 2011 8:54 pm

Much better!
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Post  Lemming Mon Jun 06, 2011 8:11 pm

Pulled the 968 engine on Sunday and it goes to its new owner on Saturday. The engine going to the same shop that Tom E. has his old car at; I'm buying his brake setup and will be pulling it this weekend as well. Spent an hour pulling all the accessories and air intake off of the LS1 after work today. I plan on doing a complete rebuild before it gets installed with my friends at SpeedSouth. Ordered parts (motor mounts and bellhousing adapter) from Eric today. Got tubing coming in to build the headers locally. Clutch will be Spec Stage III and alum flywheel. I still need to deal with clutch master setup, oil filter relocation, oil cooler, and fuel. I'm managing to tick things off my list, that makes me happy? Would love to race this thing in July!

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Post  Lemming Tue Jun 07, 2011 7:25 pm

Heads are off and headed to the shop tomorrow for a rebuild. Lots of stuff ordered.
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