HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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radiator

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radiator

Post  stuart f. wright on Thu Jun 24, 2010 11:57 am

just curious what radiator is the best for the 944 sbc conversion.im currently using a brass copper style and it seems to cool the motor ok.id like the motor to run a little cooler than it does presently.i was looking at the griffin style radiator listed in the manual.im running a 350 puting out 500 hp.it cools pretty good at normal driving but the temp gets up to 200 to 210 when im running it hard at highway speeds.my present radiator is a rather large copper brass unit with 4 rows .im running the stock dual fan setup and the radiator is slanted simular to the early vettes.it measures 26x19 overall.im open to any advice or sugestions.my motor is all iron naturally asspirated sbc with a fairly large roller cam.
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Re: radiator

Post  xschop on Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:11 pm

Hey Stu, try test running it with the thermostat removed and see what happens
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Re: radiator

Post  stuart f. wright on Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:17 pm

i could try that or run a restrictor im running a high flow 160 thermostat right now
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Re: radiator

Post  xschop on Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:23 pm

The whole point of removing a t-stat is that the radiator itself is the restrictor...you may be surprised and it won't cost you a dime to experiment....watch your gauge setting at a stoplight and on the hiway.
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Re: radiator

Post  stuart f. wright on Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:29 pm

il give it a try .that is true it deffinitly is a restrictor.i will report back after i try it .i was trying to keep from spending any more than i have to thank you
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Re: radiator

Post  Dawgz83948 on Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:33 pm

You need to mod the front to allow more airflow. Mine used to do the same thing and still does if I get "dirty" air in traffic.
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Re: radiator

Post  stuart f. wright on Thu Jun 24, 2010 1:26 pm

i have modified my front quite a bit and it helped alot.in traffic or a cruising it does fine its just at high speeds on the road it gets up to 200 degrees or more.for hot weather that were having i guess thats ok.weve been having 90 to 96 degree temps here so maybe im being apprehensive.ive only been able to test it in hot temps so far.i havnt tested in cooler weather as ive just got it up and running here recently.ive removed the piece in front in between my headlights and made one out of aluminum sheet to help direct my airflow.im picky on coolant temps which i like to keep low as possible .i was temped to buy an allum radiator to see if it would lower it some more.the car is a beast .it is really quick as i have raced a couple of my buddies stangs in drag races.my wife got a 96 cobra powerd convertible and i raced it to and i observed my coolant temps at 100mph plus and it got up over 200 degrees but wasnt boiling over and cooled back down when my foot got out of it.i was just wondering what radiators and engine temps you guys are running when you got the hammer down.
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Re: radiator

Post  Admin on Thu Jun 24, 2010 2:34 pm

try looking at this option, it's not your radiator. If it cools at low speed and stop and go traffic, Your radiator should be adequate. Don't remove the Thermostat, That won't do you any good, it is there for a reason.
You need to look at when it is over heating, Top end haul'n A down the highway. Your running lean on top end............ Check you fuel pressure and timing at those speeds and not just the RPMS. Get an air fuel gauge hooked up if you can. It'll let you see what's going on at that moment. I know your carb, but you can still install the AR meter.
Oh, change your thermosat to a 180 or 190, at top speeds if your making so much heat that the water does not stop in the radiator for a second and cool it's always going to get hot.
Just my educated .02

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Re: radiator

Post  stuart f. wright on Thu Jun 24, 2010 2:42 pm

that was my thought on the matter was my thermostat.my timing is right as ive checked with a good timing light.i havnt hooked an air fuel ratio meter to it yet but i will.im gonna try the thermostat first as it acts like it wants to run at about 180 to 190 at driving speeds thank you
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Re: radiator

Post  v8carreragts on Mon Jul 19, 2010 11:11 pm

Well, the t-stat thing has always been a controversey. I recently read the book "Engine Cooling Systems" by Ray T. Bohacz. (HP Books) It was probably the best book I have found about the automotive cooling system. Anyway, he states that everyone buys a high flow water pump expecting it to help their cooling. The problem is that you have 2 major restrictions in the system, the thermostat and the radiator. The purpose of a thermostat is to help the engine to heat up quickly in the cooler or cold weather and help newer engines to run very hot all of the time to aid with the reduction of emissions.

He states that the best way to cool a hot running engine (other than having enough air flow) is to increase the flow through the radiator. The only way to increase it is to remove the t-stat. He says that it is typical for some racers to use a restrictor plate but this defeats the purpose of removing the t-stat.

He only recommends this for a car that is not used for daily transportation because of the necessity of quick warm up when it is cool or cold out.

The 944 has 2 basic problems as far as cooling goes. Small space for the radiator and restricted air flow in front of the radiator. You can do some things to help air flow and use a high volume fan.

You say that you see you problem when you are a speed so another thing to look at is air exiting the engine compartment. You may have a pressure build up in the engine compartment keeping air from going through the radiator. A quick test would be to take off the hood seal in front of the windshield. This will allow air from the engine compartment to exit in the low pressure area at the lower part of the windshield. If your temps go down you know that this is your problem. If you are not using the lower pan this could be contributing. The pan helps the air exit the engine compartment as well as keeping it from recirculating when you are stopped.

If you don't see any change after removing the hood seal take out the t-stat and re-try it. My guess is that the problem is an air flow problem.
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Re: radiator

Post  stuart f. wright on Tue Jul 20, 2010 12:43 pm

i have came to the conclusion that i have an airflow issue also.i have tryed different things to solve the problem such as directing air flow to the radiator .but like you stated i need to also concentrate on where the hot air goes as it exits radiator.it could be getting trapped in the engine compartment.im goin to try a different aproach as my money allows it.the radiator im using is rather large brass unit 19x26 that i had to put in at a slant to fit like they did some of the early vettes.i used to have it standing up and sicking out in the open and it worked fine.im going to find an alluminum unit that isnt as tall that can fit in original location.i still have stock radiator but i dont think it would cool engine as good as aftermarket unit
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Re: radiator

Post  v8carreragts on Tue Jul 20, 2010 1:33 pm

Well, I know that some have had good luck with the 951 radiator. That is what I have in mine and i will be running somewhere around 480 HP. According to my calculations it should be large enough provided it gets enough air flow. It has a 19.75" x 14" core (the n/a is 19.75 x 12.75)

I have also removed the condenser and replaced it with 2 smaller ones, one on each side where they put the oil coolers in the Carrera GTR race cars. I also have a Carrera GTS front nose and I have cut out the front frame crossmember and replaced it with a 12 gauge u-channel with the center cut out. So I have a fairly open front. (I also have the 924 turbo upper nose with the 4 grills that is also directed to the radiator. I will be modifing the under pan to fit the new nose because it does improve the evacuation of air from the engine compartment.
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Re: radiator

Post  stuart f. wright on Tue Jul 20, 2010 2:20 pm

mine is definitly an air flow issue im probaly goin to put a different nose on mine simular to yours but am going to use a griffin radiator listed in conversion manual i still have my original n/a radiator but am not sure if it is sufficent .im pushing well over 500 hp n 600 with my nos ive gotten my temps staying around 200 on 95 degree days at 70 mph with my current setup but would like to drop temp a little more.i think a less restrictive radiator encloseure by changing nose aqnd a different radiator more fitting for the space standing up instead of an angle will help evacuate hot air more efficiently
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sbc diagram for radiator. 951 radiator

Post  cabrio924 on Sat Mar 22, 2014 11:31 pm

How did you route your radiator hoses on a sbc, I am using a turbo radiator. My engine is installed and running but something is not right. Thanks in advanced.

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Re: radiator

Post  stuart f. wright on Sun Mar 23, 2014 11:05 am

cabrio924 wrote:How did you route your radiator hoses on a sbc, I am using a turbo radiator. My engine is installed and running but something is not right. Thanks in advanced.
i used a remote thermostat filler neck on the upper radiator hose to the intake to eliminate any air as it needs to be above the motor where you fill up with coolant and i have an over flow tank sitting where the original tank once was.lower hose goes to lower fitting on radiator.i also have bypass installed on heater hoses as well .air is bled out through the filler neck on intake
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Re;Radiator

Post  jrod63chevy on Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:00 pm

Hey stu just wondering if you could post pics or send me some pics of your setup. i have a 5.3 with the stock radiator and fans it was cooling fine till the overflow blew sky high......need a little advice thanks

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Re: radiator

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