944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Post  a951 Sun May 30, 2010 8:24 am

Hi, used to be on the old forums, now I m here
It's been cold, $#** didnt fit, I was fedup, but last few weeks its been warm and I have continued

Im using a RH kit

firstly, what kind of 4" boot do you guys use? I found a very narrow 4", but it just doesnt work. maybe a 4 to 3.5" works better? removing the latch for hood is the alternative, but surely you all havent done that?
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oem flanges on RH headers annoyed me, so I welded on v-bands

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pretty darn tired of takeing engine in & out, so decided to change plugs and gaskets and thread heads while I was at it.
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didnt fit right, so cut, hammer, grind, weld, repeate, mark some etc
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barely sticks out 2-3mm lower than sump/crossover, which is good, it sits higher than oem
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time to seeamweld
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a951

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Post  a951 Sun May 30, 2010 8:32 am

after seem welding I had to make a cut to take tension out, mount hangers, o2 bungs etc, passengerside o2 wont need extension. buddy took a few pics, his fancy camera sure is better than my cellphone.

pre hangers
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welding all I can all place with $#** in place so it wont warp, stainless is darn soft. even with low amps.
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o2s
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I look good
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a951

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Post  skywalker01 Sun May 30, 2010 8:46 am

Awesome looking exhaust!! Where did you get the pipe from? I have to redo mine to fit the kit - how do the lap clamps work for you? As to your question regarding the hood latch, I think the gerneral consensus around here is that it has to go. The Aerocatch setup is painless and gives you extra 'ricer' cred Laughing (just kidding). I am pleased that I removed the hood latch - makes for more room up front.
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Post  a951 Sun May 30, 2010 8:52 am

I tried to answer your thread, with a quote, but instead it said "voted down"?! so sorry about that

all piping was from a local universal car parts supplier, its nothing fancy, just regular SS314? or was it it 316 polished pipe, mufflers are also SS, but custom orderd to fit in between with maximum size

lap clamps are from summitracing, seems to be good, they have some sort of sticky inside to seal or whatever it is, with the lap joint at rear, I can fit/remove entire exhaust in < 3-4 minutes.

Im norwegian, so store names doesnt really apply to you

hmm I'll drill out the spotwelds so it can be reversed then, I made a mold of my hood, so I'll just slap togetherer some fiberglass and make a new hood I can drill, sadly the bodywork on my car is flawless, as is paint, previous owner had a receipt for 5000! USD in paintwork and such done after a small accident.

a951

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Post  gt1scca Sun May 30, 2010 9:01 am

a951,

Welcome, and I have a tip for using the v-band collectors...

Install flex connectors to absorb some of the stress on the v-bands, or you may end up with cracked header flanges (especially on RH headers, which are welded on the outside of the flange). One on each side before the Y...The engine torque and vibration will eventually take its toll, and the SS flex connectors will save the headers. Even with urethane mounts, the exhaust system will move some under load. This is highly recommended by Street & Performance.

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Post  a951 Sun May 30, 2010 9:15 am

hi gt1scca, yes I have thought about thoose as an afterthought, should be a minimal cut & weld job as I have a straight party there regardless, the way exhaust is mounted now it can actually turn, the entire way back though, but the header will probably be a weak spot.

right now I just wanna get $#** togeterher and started so I can hear how it sounds Smile all muflers are "straight through" with SS filling, hope it gets it down to <95db during tracktesting.

a951

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Post  Porch Sun May 30, 2010 1:53 pm

Welcome! Looks great!
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Post  Luke714 Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:59 pm

Nice fab work! I'm trying to get mine together as well. Wish I could offer the same sage advice the others are giving!
Luke714
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Post  a951 Thu Jun 03, 2010 2:45 am

hey luke, thanks, se you also got a seven!
here is mine, just came to the country yesterday, westfield megabusa, hopefully it will registerd on monday, 207hp hayabusa, carbonfiber bodywork, "decent" pull Smile

just gotto figure out why it blinks the brakelights when you try to go right, and right blinker goes on when you try to brake... etc, gotto love english electronics.

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a951

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Post  Luke714 Thu Jun 03, 2010 5:58 am

WoW! great looking car. Haha, I don't actually own that. My good friend has one as well as his brother, so I'm sorta surrounded; sadly not an owner. They're both Berkins, although I've seen a couple of caterhams at autox's. They're pretty amazing little cars, it looks like you have a good amount of work into yours.

Add lightness Laughing
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Post  a951 Sun Jun 20, 2010 11:06 am

been playing with the busa, damn its fun! and also had to build/work on boats, so little time for car until now

I removed spotwelds for the hood latch and started the plumbing for it, orderd parts needed for mounting rest of system. also orderd a mocal 115 matrix 60 row oil cooler, it will sit perfectly behind the duct of stock IC, (in theory ) this way I can get maximal flow through radiator on track, and still have a quite large oil cooler, with extremly little pressure drop.

has anyone got dimensions of stock radiator top hole, and that of the ls1? the thermostat, to lower radiator is ok and done.



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a951

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Post  a951 Thu Jun 24, 2010 1:26 pm

orderd more parts, got some parts etc.

this is a 60 row mocal heavy duty oil cooler, many rows = little pressure loss, should be only aprox 0.2-0.3 bar loss with this thing, wide and short rows same size will yield almost 1bar of pressure loss(14.7psi)

mounting behind scoop for stock intercooler, should get very good flow, and not disturb any of the radiator flow, porsches oem ducting is very good.

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I made a hood mold some time back, but never any hoods, finally got going now, finished fixing the sprayer nozzle holes and smoothing out some edges and minor imperfections in gelcoat. maybe make a hood on sunday then if I can put enough layers of wax in before then.

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picture cropping kinda kills my pics

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Post  a951 Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:48 pm

got to shop and our 3 phase was out, and no access to fusebox, darnit! had to use a ladder to test fitment
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Post  a951 Thu Jul 08, 2010 8:00 am

got my stuff from siliconhoses and summitracing, so now it has water, and soon maf, our landlord still havent given us access to fusebox after removing our old access, so I still cant use the bloody car lift?! it sucks beeing on a ladder all the time.

got a pair of nice long bosch premium o2 sensors, status of the old ones were a bit.. bob bob so better safe than sorry.

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Post  Porch Thu Jul 08, 2010 9:43 am

Looks great!
Darnit, i could have sold you my old oil cooler, never would up using it and it's the same size as what you've got.

Curious to see what you do for the hood latches!
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Post  a951 Thu Jul 08, 2010 12:50 pm

aerocatch, on the new fiberglass hood, 1 in each corner, 4 total is the plan at least.

hehe great minds think alike on the cooler eh? Smile I like my oil cool. or.. my thermostat is 101c, so I like it at 101-110c, not 150+ as it tended to be before

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Post  Admin Thu Jul 08, 2010 4:17 pm

Make sure that you check with your manufacturer on the oil temp. Cool oil does not always work properly. Oil's are made to work in a certain temperature zone.

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Post  a951 Thu Jul 08, 2010 4:29 pm

viscosity is measured at XX temp for the spec, I run 10w60 tws motorsport, its very nice at 101-110 degrees, but also works fine up to 130-140 where it starts not beeeing so happy, and at 150 you need to change at a frequent interval. (im euro, so all my stuff is celsius)

reason for 101c is the boiling point of water at 100c, meaning it will get rid of any water in oil and other stuff as it boils away. most other thermostats open as early as 80.

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trouble with the unit, vs other like mocal etc, is the darn size. its huge.

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Post  a951 Sat Feb 05, 2011 5:05 pm

well, It was cold, and I decided working on 944 was no fun, I now have 45.000 watts of heating, and its more fun

so I'm done with fuel, water, air etc, oil cooler mounting, figured I would try to start the damn thing, but what is in & out on the oil pan? the long, or the short?

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Post  a951 Sat Feb 05, 2011 5:26 pm

well, I spent 15 mins searching reading every oil post, sure enough, rear against flywheel=into engine, front = out, yeah for the forum, spent like 60 mins on google..

I welded the flex pipes in, put brand new long wire o2 ins as well
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water
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air
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fuel
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oil
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bit off topic, but my friends turbo rx7 drifter
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I finally also bought a dSLR camera, but.. well, it was outside in the car Wink

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Post  Arthropraxis Sat Feb 05, 2011 7:47 pm

Nice. What size exhaust is that? Did you make the Y pipe?
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Post  adam7e Sat Feb 05, 2011 8:29 pm

Your car is looking amazing!

I'm curious why you decided to put the 02 bungs after the flex pipe? Was the flex put in afterward, and it was just more convenient that way? My thinking was to put mine on the header side so they don't get gummed up and affect performance/shorten lifespan when the SS stuff breaks down and vibrates particulates into the sensor? What do you think?

Also curious about your exhaust gear details as I'm planning that stage.

Congratulations! I hope you use that DSLR to take a video of your first startup. Hopefully it has a mic?
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Post  robstah Sat Feb 05, 2011 9:24 pm

I recommend moving the MAF to the other end of the pipe, instead of right next to the filter. That should allow the MAF to get a straight reading of air instead of all the directional air being pulled in.

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Post  a951 Sun Feb 06, 2011 4:01 am

since im to lazy to multiquote right now

all exhaust is 3", all mufflers are straight through, not cutting any flow, but since they are so long/big you can SCREAM into one end, and it will be muffled way down, amazing stuff, one reason for this exhaust design, is it sticks less down under car, than oem, and I will plate a lot of the underside for aerodynamics

y pipe, is based on a piece from summit, then cut down to suit my needs, to much hassle to make from scratch

yes, the flexpipes is an afterthought, a tip in the thread here, the exhaust is amazingly rigid, and mounted to torque tube all the way back, so in reality, if enigne moves sideways, it will twist with it, and little vibration to headers. not to worried about o2 sensors really, they are cheap, I have spares, and they are quite sturdy

thanks for the maf tip, shouldnt take many seconds to move.

anyone now quickly how tu run fuel pump fore pressure test? gnt pin5 on 14 pin?

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Post  a951 Sun Feb 06, 2011 11:52 am

guess what I did today, fired up the v8 Smile

ghetto rigged oil filter with some lines I had laying about -10, set fuel pressure, gnding it does indeed fire it, remember to tighten things first, not after Wink

forgot to fil with proper camera again, will do this week.

quite excited! to say the least!


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