LT1 mounting issues

Has anyone had trouble getting your LT1 to line up properly with the LT uprights and engine mounts. The issue im having is that the engine was dropped in, i was able to connect the bell housing to the engine but when trying to mount the engine to the uprights they are about a half inch to far back(toward the fire wall).

what im using: LT1
Texas performance LTX crossmember
gm 2 peice bell housing
bell housing adapter plate from greg sloan
motor mount on the conversion manual LT list
spec sc35s flywheel
centerforce pressure plate
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You might check your tranny mount. If it is too far back that will be transfered to the torque tube. If you have a late car you can slot the brace to allow for some movement of the tranny.

Thats odd. Usually, the engine is sloutching to the rear....yours is too far forward. I would bolt the mounts to the block and the uprights to the mounts and then guide the upright studs into the holes of the crossmember and, after the engines weight is on the uprights and after josling the drivetrain a bit, see if it all doesnt lay down for you. It doesnt look like its off all that much.

Maybe when pulling the OE engine, you pulled the drivetrain forward a bit and just need to push it backwards.

I know that when installing my engine the same kind of things were happening but after bolting everything together loosley, it all settled into place.

EDIT: oops. I didnt read that you were using the crossmember assembly.

LR mount?
Get out the grinder.

Is there enough tube to just cut off the 1/2" you need. Like I said in my PM, if you would prefer take some measurements and send it back to me and I'll get it moved for you....
Eric

Before you fault TPC's X-member, tell me this dimension and I will let you know if Lindsay machined their mount properly, which I have suspected is TOO FORWARD at the intermediate bracket interface.....

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Im not faulting any of the parts yet......for all i know it could be my fault as this is my 1st conversion. I will get those measurements today.

I'm not faulting the LR mount either, it was designed for the 4 banger that had stretchy rubber motor mounts that had huge slots on the factory alloy front X-member. From your pic it does look about 1/4" to 3/8" too forward. What can be done is the large tranny hanger/X-member chassis bolt holes can be slotted to move the hanger REARWARDS (also the large bolt washers have to be ground on one side)
Another thing to do is loosen the 4 front X-member to chassis bolts enough to see if you can move it FORWARDS some. Do these 2 things and cut about 1/4" to 3/8" off the back side of the upright. It will bolt up.

The interface plane to bolt center dimension should be 0.850"..... anything less moves the drivetrain FORWARD by that difference....JTTH

is it possible that the tranny mount backwards?

That pic in his gallery looks correct with the fuel filter on the passenger side and the mount/intermediate bracket interface facing forward.

I didnt know that the rear crossmember had to be modified(besides drilling the mount holes bigger)........ Man wish i would of known that earlier. I kinda figured that the mount was just more sturdy not shaft changing....the transaxle seemed to bolt up the same to the trans-bell housing with out the shaft moving at all. Now with the engine im thinking of unbolting the bell housing and trying to reposition it ...... curious if i should try to unbolt the engine and housing away from the adapter plate. Not sure but would like to cancel out the easier issues before i start removing parts again.

I have slotted the transaxle crossmember and ground the uprights a 1/4 inch as well as loosened the engine cross member to get....but still seems the motor mounts are not properly lining up but they are very close. Issue im having is the oil pan is sitting on the power steering assembly on the driver side. I believe it is the pan from a corvette are these different from the camaro and firebird pans......also need to know what motor mount everyone else used.

Did you grind the sides of the large trans x-member bolt washers? That will give you another 3/16" forward clearance.

sure did(on grinding the washers) im not sure that the motor mounts are not wrong. I think the mount will mount up now with some torquing but is that the way it supposed to be and should my oil pan be touching the power steering rack on the driver side by the steering shaft?

Eric will have to reply to the steering rack clearance. There is also one other trick in the hat.....slot the motor mounts at the three holes to get some more adjustment. There are long tab and short tab motor mounts for height adjustment.
The whole moral to this story is that the original upright design that is being used and published came from a mock-up done on a car that more than likely had the swap being done with the front raised and the factory rubber trans mount stretched rearwards from the entire weight of the drivetrain. IMHO. Couple that with the fact these cars are all assembled a little different from each others tolerances in the chassis.

The pan should not be touching at all. You should have enough room to almost get your finger in there... I always use the 1970 Camaro rubber mounts. Post some better pictures so we can help more.

I will post some pics tomorrow i have the 70 camaro mounts also the steering rack is made my ZF havent had time to take pics starting to wonder if i may have to notch the pan because it was in a corvette

Ok issue fixed i had to remove the oil pan and modify it to clear the steering rack thank god that was a pain. My engine is all mounted up thank you everyone.

Good job. What beer is in the avatar? Beer:30 here LOL