944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Post  Luke714 Wed Mar 03, 2010 7:14 pm

Hello,

I thought that I would start a thread for my Porsche 944 LS1 conversion. I will try and keep it up to date with all the latest pictures and developments. This is my first engine conversion of any type, and is the most in depth car project I have ever attempted. I’ve always been into building and design new contraptions, now I’m a mechanical engineering major at the University of Maine. Other projects I’ve worked on include hybrid rocket motors, [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] trebuchets, robotics and the like. Blacksmithing is sort of an offshoot hobby. Car specific mechanical experience is more limited, but currently I’m captain of the universities Formula SAE car which is quite the project, some of my buddies and I also built an entry for the New Brunswick Coaster Derby and won that, but that wasn’t anything to be too proud off. My other car is a Subaru that I have fun rally-crossing in the winter.

My current Porsche is a 1986 944 turbo, maroon and is in relatively good shape. I had fun driving the car for a year or so before I decided I wanted to swap it. In my opinion it handled like nothing I had driven before but the power plant was the weak (and expensive) part of the car. The previous owner wasn’t very easy on the motor (didn’t let it warm up/ cool down the turbo) so the cyl #2 connecting rod bearing failed and scored the cylinder. The head gasket is also blown; I did some research on rebuilding. It made a lot more sense to spend the same money on getting twice the power and have some left over for suspension upgrades and the like.

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Since the “big” decision this fall I’ve been doing a lot of research on the conversion, thanks to Greg I got my hands on the excellent conversion manual and found this forum. From there I’ve been able to figure out most of my questions pretty easily. My goal is to doing everything right the first time, including the rest of the car. I don’t want to have a great motor with no suspension, brakes or drive train to go with it. I’m sure everyone hear is just about sick of all of my questions. I’ve got a couple of weeks off so I’ve started the grunt work at last.

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Our new shop is heated and I’ve got enough space to work in so I started dismantling the car to the extent I need to. To save weight I’m removing the rear seat and replacing the electrically adjustable front seats. There was also a leak in the battery tray that you couldn’t really see on inspection because someone had smegged it and then painted over, however it did it’s damage and the entire passenger side of the is soaking wet. The rubber mats didn’t allow the water to evaporate so I ripped up the interior on one side and lifted the carpet to allow it to dry out. Luckily the Germans know how to pick their steel and nothing had rusted. I plan on just shampooing all of the carpet, fixing the battery tray, and laying things back down.

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I’m also getting rid of the nasty fall apart foam on the hood and replacing it with some other hood linings I found.

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I don’t want a completely stripped down car that is entirely uncomfortable (although I won’t compromise on suspension setup) so I’m leaving the carpet, dash, and most of the interior but anything else that is option is going out the window. Stuff like fog lights, AC, cruise, the huge windshield washer bottle, the cruel back seats, etc. While I have the car up on jack stands I’m removing all the bits that have to be modified or removed. The Front struts are coming out and will be fitted with Ground Control coilover conversion kits.

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The shocks are fairly nice and new KONI’s so I’m just going to use those with stiffer springs. I’m also taking out the rear torsion bars and putting in some stiffer bars. Of course the whole car will be lowered a bit. I figure the brakes should be pretty much alright but I’ll put better pads in.

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Recently I learned about the dangerous ball joints so those are coming out and I’m putting in a track kit from Rennbay, so I’ll rip those out soon too. The transmission will also be removed by the end of the week. I hope to start on the reinforcement plate and install that as well. While the transmission is out I’ll also fabricate the brace and put on the solid mount. I’ll wait until the summer when I’m putting in the engine to stick that back in the car. I’m also removing the engine and selling that for more funds. That should be out by next week. Once that is done I’ll have the space to prep the engine bay and make sure everything is ready.

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Since I’m a poor bastard I’m doing all the machining for the conversion parts myself. The goal this break is to have the bellhousing adapter, spacers, transmission reinforcement plate, transmission brace, and maybe the setback plates done. As you can see in the following pictures I’ve been in the machine shop for the last two days. I’ve got the adapter plate cut to size, I’m going to lay the holes out tonight. I’ve also got the stock for the spacers pretty much done, just need to mill them to the correct width and length plus drill the holes.

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Last edited by Luke714 on Wed Mar 03, 2010 7:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  944-LT1 Wed Mar 03, 2010 7:18 pm

Ti-84+?!?! Very Happy

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Post  Luke714 Wed Mar 03, 2010 7:36 pm

heck yeah! screw the 89
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Post  944-LT1 Wed Mar 03, 2010 7:39 pm

I have the exact same one right here! Love it. Laughing

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Post  gt1scca Wed Mar 03, 2010 7:48 pm

Hey Luke,
Where did that cool publication full of Patent-free information come from?

Razz

C5 Plate looks great so far.
Manual milling (X-Y coordinates) sucks doesn't it?
It's cheap if you have the time, though.

Nice work!

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Post  cfgioja Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:22 pm

You guys are making me jealous. I dont even own a shop, not to mention a mill or lathe.

Sucks being young.
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Post  Luke714 Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:41 pm

Hey!!! I gave you credit! Very Happy

thanks to Greg I got my hands on the excellent conversion manual and found this forum

Hahaha, well I'm only 19 so I don't actually own much of what you see besides the hand mechanics tools. You just need connections!
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Post  gt1scca Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:13 pm

Just razzin' ya, Luke.

Thank the people listed on page 8, and then some. The list grows daily...
I merely wrangled it into one place (sort of).

Rock on, bro.

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Post  joeytoad83 Thu Mar 04, 2010 12:13 am

looks good, ill be doin this too mine soon. just ordered the book.

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Post  Luke714 Thu Mar 04, 2010 7:36 am

It's worth it!
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Post  Luke714 Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:46 pm

I spent a couple of days last week finishing the adapter plate and spacers. After spending such a long time machining the hole drilling and tapping was making me really nervous, I’ve got a lot invested in the thing now. I laid everything out with layout dye and a scribe and then double checked it in the morning. For the final holes I used the (x,y) coordinates and the milling machine, I just wanted the peace of mind to see that the holes were being cut on my layout marks. Unless I find a mistake later on everything is in order. I’m waiting until I’m back at school and have a round ended mill to do the clearance for the hydraulic lines. I’m also waiting for the register pins to come in before I drill those holes.

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The spacers were a synch, relatively speaking. The mill was a little tilted so on the first few the finish wasn’t perfect, but I got that back into adjustment. As far as I know they are all done now.

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My latest project in the machine shop has been the reinforcement plate for the transmission. I’ve only got the stock cut out and the holes laid out. Hopefully I’ll get that finished up soon; I’ll post pictures when it’s done.

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It took me a while to get the transmission taken out, when I went tractor shopping with my dad (I tried to convince him to buy a used Porsche instead but he didn’t bite) I had to pick up some 12 point star drives for the CV joints. When I started the job I didn’t realize those were star drives they just looked like allen heads on quick inspection. After wrestling with it all day today I finally got it out of the car, there isn’t any turning back on this project anymore. Inside the bell housing was nice and clean but the rest of it needs a good cleaning, I’ll do that when I take it apart to put the reinforcement plate in. I’ve been reading about people putting in the limited slip diff from the Quattro V8 for a pretty cheep price. Unless something else comes up I figure that’ll be the route I’m going to go. The mount for the brace will also be figured out while the transmission is sitting in the machine shop.

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A friend of mine has been helping me out a little; he’s learning to work on cars for the first time. While I was getting the transmission out he was prepping the engine for removal, the radiator, fans, wiring harness, etc are all ready. He also brought an engine hoist, so I hope to have the engine out completely in the next two or so days. The “Sell” pile in the shop is getting bigger by the minute.

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Unless the UPS plane crashes I’m waiting for some new suspension bits to arrive. I talked to Jay at Ground Control (very helpful) he set me up with some new Eibach springs for the front along with the coilover conversion kit. I’ve also got some top mount camber/caster plates. New 29mm rear torsion bars are on order as well. I’m pleased the previous owner got some really nice Koni’s for me to use on this setup! That saved me an arm and a leg.

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Can’t wait to give this thing a try next summer! My buddy and I are planning our second road trip in the NH Mountains, last summer was a blast. He’s got a car you don’t see a lot of around here, a TVR 280i.

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Post  Luke714 Mon Mar 08, 2010 3:53 pm

no big deal but I noticed all the pictures are cropped so they're not as wide. hmmm, whatever Very Happy
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Post  Wild Bill Mon Mar 08, 2010 5:04 pm

You can resize them under special effects. Yours is the same color as mine! But it looks like your budget is bigger.. You must not have kids yet Laughing Sure would be nice to have access to machines like that. Nice work!
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Post  Luke714 Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:27 pm

Yeah! I was looking at your pictures couple of days ago, looks great! Overall I'm not sure how I feel about the color, the price was right. It is sort of growing on me though, although black, red or white I think are still the best colors. A dark British racing green might look good too (not quite right on a German car though). All of you guys have a lot more experience with this than I do though so I'm throughly jealous of how much knowledge everyone has. It's funny you mention the budget cause I was thinking today that since my GF for two years and I split a little while ago I'm not even going to feel guilty about spending all this $$ on the car and not her Razz Not sure if that is an entirely good thing or not though Laughing
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Post  Luke714 Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:35 pm

Hi

I figured I’d list my planned modifications to the ol’ Porsche and see what you guys have to say, unless I just forgot to mention it anything not on the list will just be stock or what is suggested in the conversion manual:

Starting with an 86 turbo

Suspension:
• Ground Control coilver conversion kit
• Eibach front springs 440#
• Koni adjustable shocks front
• Top mounted camber and caster plates by Ground Control
• Front strut brace
• Track kit for front ball joints by Rennbay
• 29mm rear torsion bars
• Koni adjustable shocks rear
Brakes:
• Wilwood manual master cylinder
• Carbon ceramic pads, not sure exactly yet
Power:
• LS1 V8! (kept pretty much stock from whatever it is pulled from for now)
• RH headers (I know I know)
• Clutch, don’t know anything about specing out a clutch, need to do more research (suggestions are more than welcome)
• C5 bellhousing with adapter
• Summit Racing Griffin radiator
• 3” collectors, 3.5” main to a Flowmaster 50 series (from what I’ve heard a 40 might be too loud)???
• No cats
• No AC, cruise or anything like that
Drivetrain:
• Reinforcement plate in transaxle
• Solid Transmission mount by Lindsay Racing
• Transmission brace
• Limited slip differential, I’m not sure how yet. The most likely route at this point will be the unit out of a V8 Audi for a $150, the fabrication necessary is minimal.
• 285-295 Rear
• 245 Front
• Battery relocated to rear of car (not sure where yet)
Interior:
• Bride Racing seats
• Harness bar
• 2 four point harnesses
• A roll bar would be nice eventually but won’t happen immediately
• No rear seats, carpeted panel instead
• Retaining carpet and stock interior for the most part

I'd like to use Royal Purple synthetics all around

I spent a good chunk of today cleaning the transaxle. You can see that it was very grimy, but the oil looked really clean and the level wasn’t low. I was also very pleased at how clean the inside of the bellhousing was, you can see in the picture. Overall I’m amazed at how well that car has kept for 20 some odd years, I haven’t found a seized or stripped bolt yet (knock on wood). Everything is such quality; the car is a pleasure to work on.

BEFORE:
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AFTER:
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on the way to the other shop:
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I also got to drilling the holes in the reinforcement plate, it’s in the lathe now ready to bore out the big holes in the middle. I’m planning to get the engine out of the car tomorrow, but Wed I should be able to rip the transaxle apart and give it a try.

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Last edited by Luke714 on Tue Jun 29, 2010 5:41 am; edited 2 times in total
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Post  cfgioja Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:42 pm

I've been trying to find the reinforcement plate on the replica car website that the guys here post. I was wondering on that reinforcement plate, is it tranny specific or do all of them have the same layout?
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Post  Luke714 Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:56 pm

The replica guy was using the 951 tranny right? I'm pretty sure the same design should work on any 951 transmission (not sure if that is what you're asking). gt1scca can probably give you the drawings that I have. I can let you know if it works out for me pretty soon! Here is the link to the instructions for installation on the Wiki Page. If I remember right it looks like it is the same tranny, and the how to guide originated from the replica guy. Wait......all the how to's seem to be broken on the wiki page. Not good, hope that can be fixed...
anyway here is the wikipage incase you don't have it and the how to page works for you:

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Post  cfgioja Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:01 pm

Ya thats what I was asking. I have not pulled my tranny out of the Turbo 86 to find what model it is. Is that all in that manual they sent you?

I ahve not purchased one form 944hybrids, it is on my next item list.
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Post  Luke714 Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:27 pm

I'm not sure if the manuals will have the updated information for the reinforcement plate. I know gt1scca had a page all made up, that is what he PM'ed me. Unless he's got a new batch printed with that page in it the most up to date dimensions won't be in there. Just contact him, he should be able to help you out.
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Post  cfgioja Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:31 pm

yep will do. I'm still trying to figure out whats all wrong with this body, so I can start the swap from the 85 to the 86. I haven't had much time this semester.

yours is looking good though
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Post  Luke714 Wed Mar 10, 2010 10:55 pm

Hey,

I got the chance to finish up and install the reinforcement plate, it went pretty well. The transaxle came apart without much difficulty. Draining the oil was actually more time consuming than I thought it would be because I had to make my own 17mm allen drive. I didn’t have one on hand and neither did the local parts house. I ended up modifying a good ol bolt and then welding on a couple of nuts to use a socket to drive.

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I had to finish up the fabrication of the reinforcement plate first though. All I had left to do since my last post was to cut the larger holes for the clearance around the gears. I ended up bolting the plate to a faceplate and boring them out on the lathe

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A couple of notes, the Wiki page says that you need a 17mm socket to get the end bolt out. On my transmission, anyway, the bolt was actually a 12mm internal star drive, or a triple square drive, cheese-bolt, whatever you want to call it. I luckily had picked up a whole range of sizes when I bought the tool for the CV joint removal.

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It took a good bit of grunt to break it free. To make things easier I just clamped the whole rig to some saw horses so I wouldn’t have to worry about it falling. To keep the whole driveshaft from spinning while I loosened it I added another pipe clamp to the spline collar and braced it against a vise.

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The casing pried free without problems and everything looked in really good condition.

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When I first test fitted the pate there were a couple of changes that I had to make. The larger clearance hole for the gears wasn’t really big enough; the position was perfect, however. I had to embiggen it to 3.55” in the end. The holes for the shifter linkage were also on the small side, just to make myself feel better I enlarged those a little bit too just so that there weren’t any concerns of interference. Other than that the drawing matched the bolt patterns and such flawlessly.

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I didn’t get too fancy with the outside shape. All I did was trace the casting shape onto the plate and then cut some straight paths around them, unless I find that there is interference with something outside the transmission I don’t think I’ll do anything else to it right now.

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When milling down the casing to account for the added plate thickness just watch out for chipping. It is cast aluminum so it has a tendency to do this if you are too aggressive with the feed. Try to cut with the mill to one side or the other, just not right down the middle. This avoids the situation where the bottom cutting lips of the end mill are parallel to the side of the casting.

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There isn’t much to talk about concerning the reconstruction of the transmission; it went without much of a hitch. Just have an extra set of hands around for getting the syncros back in place, also make note of the orientation of everything before taking it apart in the first place.

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Link to instructions: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]


Last edited by Luke714 on Tue Jun 29, 2010 5:51 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  gt1scca Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:32 pm

Luke714 wrote:RH headers (I know I know)
Don't do it Dude...
NICE Headers are coming REAL SOON!
For less, no doubt.
Trust me.
Luke714 wrote:The larger clearance hole for the gears wasn’t really big enough; the position was perfect, however. I had to embiggen it to 3.55” in the end. The holes for the shifter linkage were also on the small side, just to make myself feel better I enlarged those a little bit too just so that there weren’t any concerns of interference. Other than that the drawing matched the bolt patterns and such flawlessly.
I can easily update my files.
How about a scan of the case template? Any chance of a return favor?
.dxf? SW? .pdf?

The file I sent was originally designed for an Audi snail-shell (I think). Maybe the reason for the tight clearances on the gear / shift rods.

Nice work.
I think I'll water-jet mine...
You work too hard, man.

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Post  Luke714 Thu Mar 11, 2010 8:35 am

Don't do it Dude...
NICE Headers are coming REAL SOON!
For less, no doubt.
Trust me.

ok ok, it won't be for a while anyway. I guess I'll have to look through that kazillion post thread about the headers huh? I'll get to that this evening, I know there is a lot of good information in there I should read. Very Happy

Could you clarify what you want a drawing of (sorry Embarassed), just of my complete plate? The transmission casing? I'll gladly return the favor, it's about time I do.
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Post  fliermike45 Thu Mar 11, 2010 9:16 am

Sears carry individual 17mm allen keys, they also have a nice (pricey) set of large size keys.

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Post  Luke714 Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:09 am

oh, I'm sure they do. I live out in the middle of nowhere and the nearest Sears or other place that would carry them is 1.5 hrs away.
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