944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build

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Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build - Page 14 Empty Re: Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build

Post  944convert Tue Jan 17, 2012 7:03 pm

try another post/image...like this one:

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Post  acorad Tue Jan 17, 2012 7:04 pm

OK, I just downloaded Firefox and see the same left half as I did in IE.

Now I'm wondering if maybe I was seeing the whole pic in IE, but didn't know it.

In xchop's top BH mod pic, is the pic contain only a piece of a cut-off flange and 1/2 of the BH next to it? iow, does the pic cut the BH in half?
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Post  acorad Tue Jan 17, 2012 7:08 pm

OK, I looked at some other pics of xchop's that have his dimensions cut off on the right side, and in Firefox when I right click and then View Image them the whole pic comes up, so I'm good to go now.

Thanks for everyone's help!
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Post  skywalker01 Tue Jan 17, 2012 8:24 pm

xschop wrote:Some of my best tech drawings are in MS Paint Smile
I'm really liking this new Centerforce Pressure Plate. I was checking around and see that Skywalker used this one on his build. The Tech said it only required 0.375 to 0.400" throw on the tines for full disengagement so I installed the new 13/16" Wilwood master (Had 7/8") and it is easy and smooth as butter although I can definitely feel the instant bite on acceleration.

Yeah, the Centerforce Pressure plate is great! I'm glad someone else has gotten it and likes the performance!
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Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build - Page 14 Empty Re: Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build

Post  xschop Wed Jan 18, 2012 5:57 pm

Took about an hour to pound out the long driveshaft with a brass collet I made for the shaft tip so as not to damage it...... As you can see the total length is exactly 73" on this one. Before I removed it, I made sure the rear 49mm factory setting was correct and the shaft tip to BH flange was exactly 5.65". If I ever decide to make an all-alloy TT, I have all the critical dimensions. I just don't see the weight savings doing the calculations because I would use a 3.0" I.D x 3.5" O.D. 6061 tube for the same (MOL) strength as the factory steel tube and the weight may be 5 Lbs less.....
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The factory Tube when cut off right at the alloy BH flange interface will machine down nicely for the exact same size flange as the front of the tube and welded on.....

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I'm then going to machine a locating insert and same flange dimensions that bolt together on the alloy end and allow for the long tube to remove from the front without having to drop that damn Torsion tube. The 6" clearance when the TT/trans BH is removed is icing on the cake as that is the distance the shaft has to be moved aftwards for the 948 C5 BH clutch repair/removal....

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The factory TT bearings with the rubberized bearing inserts would be a bitch to allow the shaft to move aftwards for easy clutch changes and would defeat one of the purposes for this 2-piece Torque Tube. I Went over to my friends shop where they build pump drives and got a piece of his special plastic they use on rotating shafts between their bearings. He says it machines like and is just as durable as Delrin but makes shaft removal easy as it does not adhere to the steel shaft and does not go out of tolerance afters years of service, so I'm going to fix this obstacle.
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Post  xschop Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:45 pm

Posted on renny as a reply to 95ONE since he built an alloy TT. His info saved me some headache as these TT's are engineered by aliens LOL.... I'm a glutton for punishment and am doing two Shocked

Just how the hell did the drunk Germans think of this set-up? You weren't kidding about the mega press and I'm glad I went this route to keep some of the center steel for concentricity of a locating boss. I took the printout of your pic to the shop with the "Balloned" section of the serrated interface to see where they would wind up once the BH was face-milled. I calculated the center of the ballons at 3.330" which is right at the edge of where the forward coupler bolt hole would be. It looks like the area was balloned out while the alloy casting was still hot as the Hexagon shape is tell-tale. The set-up was time consuming, so I did my other spare TT the same cause I like the direction this is headed. I am going to machine a 5/16" thick flange for each end and that will put the flange resting on the bolt hole, so I'm going to have mill it down some more...probably 3.00 even..... I tapped the casting mounts M10 x 1.5 all the way thru. The bosses are very thick and taper down and are also located right next to the reinforcement bridges....win-win.....

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Post  xschop Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:32 pm

Oh yeah, for my fellow hybriders, I will be building double 0-ring TT bearing carriers and inserts that allow the shaft to remove out by hand and are easy to install/remove with a special tool and a winch. A regular shackle on the winch end cocks the TT carriers in the tube and they bind. The square O-rings are a common part # in case one or some get fragged in the removal process..... I Have over 400 miles on the prototypes an they are quiet. Very Happy

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Post  acorad Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:22 pm

Greatest thread evah!
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Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build - Page 14 Empty Tool

Post  xschop Wed Jan 25, 2012 2:42 pm

I'll make a few of these as loaner tools. A common 1/4" wire rope winch does the trick. I used a 2K Lb. screw winch. It took me all of 20 minutes on the second tube. I used a 3/4" PVC pipe and zip-tied the loop to snake the winch thru the old bearings...... and a half can of spray lube LOL....

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Post  kevin924kevin Wed Jan 25, 2012 7:45 pm

Great job xschop, keep the developments coming.
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Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build - Page 14 Empty X's Xmember

Post  xschop Mon Jan 30, 2012 10:39 am

I machined a precision Jig/lock-plate for our X-members so I can get creative if need be and have a whole lot less set-up time when line-boring the control arm mounts for 3/4" drop. What I learned yesterday from doing 2 X-members back-to-back is that the Porsche manufacturers did not machine these on a jig either and were "SMS" at the factory as both were off at all mounting points by more than a few .000" .....In the grand scheme of things it is not really important as the entire suspension/steering rack is adjustable. Also the early (pre 85.5) X-members are already slotted from factory at the engine mount holes.....Oktoberfest factory mod LOL

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Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build - Page 14 Empty jig

Post  kevin924kevin Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:06 pm

Very nicley done.
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Post  xschop Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:13 pm

Got the rebuildable TT bearing carriers done for the Alloy Tube I.D. They have a smaller O.D. on the O-ring lands than the ones I made for my recent clutch change. The rear TT bearings always wear out first and mine was singing. The factory TT bearings press in with an interference fit and I designed the carriers so the Square O-rings cannot walk out and are inexpensive to replace. They are also 50% wider and cannot get cocked in the TT. I'm leaving the total O.D. thicker so they can be set/pounded in with a 3" O.D. PVC tube.... In a few weeks when I catch up on my other projects I'll get a show of hands for making a run of these with the polymer inserts....

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Post  acorad Thu Feb 02, 2012 12:02 am

Xschop, not sure I'm following everything you're doing here, is this to replace bearings in an aftermarket alloy TT, or the OEM TT? If it's for OEM, seems pretty dumb not to do the TT bearings while I've got the whole thing apart, so count me in.
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Post  Constantine Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:16 am

Hi Robert,

So I guess you won't be ordering our 944 Super Bearings then?

Now I understand all the questions.

Good show.

Cheers,
Constantine
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Post  xschop Thu Feb 02, 2012 9:29 am

Hey ACO....The bearing in the pic is machined 0.04" smaller O.D. on the O-ring lands and is specifically designed to fit the alloy tube I.D. And when I build more 2-piece alloy tubes, they'll come with a complete set and polymer inserts. For the hybriders, I will build sets of TT bearings with the larger O-ring Dia. and polymer inserts that fit the factory 1-piece tube. Once you drop the trans, the shaft slides right back...clutch changes will be ALOT faster.


Hey Const. as we discussed, your bearings will not fit the I.D. of the alloy tube. Measured two tubes at 2.991 and 2.995. Not only that, I do not want a rubber shaft interface/insert. The last shaft I pulled out, on the last bearing, it was very difficult to pull out by hand while having my foot against the work bench even.
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Post  Constantine Thu Feb 02, 2012 4:52 pm

Robert,

During our last lengthy discussion you said you wanted to order our 944 Super Bearings since we discussed how much easier it would be to move the drive shaft in and out of our new rubber bearing inserts which are nothing like the original Porsche bearing insert.

I don't remember our OD sizing being a problem.

But no worries, it looks like you have it.

Glad to be of help with all this.

Constantine
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Post  xschop Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:14 pm

My car is a daily driver and I could not wait 'til mid-end February for a set. I don't believe the shaft can be pulled by hand thru 4 vulcanized rubber bearings, especially the ones you designed as the inserts look alot wider with more contact area on the shaft.
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Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build - Page 14 Empty TT

Post  fliermike45 Thu Feb 02, 2012 8:52 pm

I have a TT rebuilt by Constantine and it's awesome, very pleased.

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Post  xschop Mon Feb 06, 2012 2:57 pm

My Borgeon joints have been operating flawlessly, unclocked, at 1.25" extended length (PS rack) on my swap. I recently made a couple shafts and set them up for the factory 10 degrees clocking. The chop and weld method is a pain and I won't be doing those any more... 4140 steel rod is the way to go with adjustability at the DD ends..... Thanks to feedback from Mike and another renlister, the 3/4" X-member drop only needs 1/2" shaft extension, and I'm giving them some adjustability at the ends by the end-user to grind them down if need
be.......

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Post  xschop Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:36 pm

Got around to welding my custom strut bar attachments. I made them from 1/4" thick 4140 Chromo steel, about 4 times stronger than the thin sheet metal ones that bend under the sheer force. I also used a Hollow 7/8" 6061 alloy rod and tapped each side Left and Right hand so the pre-load is set with a turn of the wrist with matching lock-nuts. As you can see there is a solid 1" clearance on the LS1 intake. So The V8 swap kit with the custom X-member I make would have exactly 0.50" clearance Very Happy

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Last edited by xschop on Tue Feb 28, 2012 4:27 pm; edited 3 times in total
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Post  spence Sun Feb 19, 2012 6:03 pm

Are you going to be selling these?
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Post  87-944S Sun Feb 19, 2012 8:21 pm

I am interested if you are selling!
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Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build - Page 14 Empty Reply with quote Re: Nailed it.....Xschop's 5.3 LM7 build

Post  Powerman951 Mon Feb 20, 2012 5:54 am

Rob,

I have purchased several of your custom parts Very Happy. Regarding your latest product, strut bar, I have two questions. First, very generally what is the clearance on the LS1 intake with a non custom X-member? Second, with a non custom x-member would there be a hood clearance issue?

Thanks

Dan
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Post  xschop Mon Feb 20, 2012 9:41 am

I'll quote myself....

"The V8 swap kit with the custom X-member I make would have exactly 0.50" clearance"

I've said it before, depending on the day's sobriety at the P-car factory, determines fitment with even 1/2" X-member spacers. 3/4" X-member drop has no issues.

Now that I've got these mocked up, I can move forward on my all billet design of which I have two variations.
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