944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Post  xschop Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:07 am

86T has the 3.375 R&P
87NA ......... 3.89 R&P

86T (Early offset control arms) has the WEAKEST front hubs of them all and the spindle bearings are the smaller EARLY style along with the fact that the front caliper mount holes are 94mm and are not good for caliper adapter bracket upgrades....

87NA has (Late Offset control arms) and STRONGEST front hubs and spindles with the larger bearings, front caliper mount holes are 76mm and all kinds of different caliper adapters can be easily adapted....

IMHO the 87-up NA front hubs and spindles are the best for upgrading brakes that trump even the expensive M030 radial brakes that demand a fortune.....

Pick your poision though as I would choose the 86T just because it had the 3.375 Gearbox (oil cooler or not)..... Brakes upgrades are easy
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Post  Porch Thu Jan 28, 2010 10:04 am

Personally i would also go for the '86 Turbo.

-It has a better trans already
-I personally think the turbo body looks nicer than the n/a body
-You'll be able to sell the motor parts for a lot more
-Hubs/control arms are easy to upgrade, but yes they are a weak spot!
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Post  944-LT1 Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:52 am

Tough question. I see why you posted it.

The 1987 944 NA is running, which may mean that along its 23 years, it was maintenanced on at least a regular basis. This means the seals, bearings, electronics, and anything else that deteriorates with just sitting and rotting is not a concern with this car. What’s more, the car is drivable which means, until you get all your conversion pieces in order, this car will be able to move around easily and possibly serve as another form of transport which is always a plus.

The 1986 turbo has engine problems, which leads me to believe that it was not necessarily well taken care of and or worse, it was in the hands of someone that; 1. could not afford the maintenance and or 2. had no mechanical experience to perform proper maintenance. In either case or both, if the engine shows signs of distress, you can immediately assume that other parameters of the car may be in the same state.

I understand that going with the turbo gets you a car with a turbo transmission already in it. But, when a seller claims the engine is not running, you have to wonder as to why it isn’t and this usually means that the rest of the drive train is in a similar state; although the various drive train parts may not be showing the physical signs just yet.

But these points are moot until you can physically see the cars. What condition is the exterior in i.e. dents, scratches, degraded seals, need paint, et cetera? What condition is the interior in i.e. ripped seats, degraded carpet, level of cracked dashboard, smell! While these things may not matter all that much to you initially, when your conversion is completed, they may and these things are expensive....alot more than a turbo transmission.

So simply weigh the pros and cons of each. If you’re merely asking what platform is easiest for a conversion... a running/driving car always beats a non running. To illustrate, I have a 1962 MGA in my garage that has been sitting for over 13 years without moving due to a blown engine. After rebuilding the engine, I have found that the brake caliper seals all have deteriorated and needed rebuild as well as the clutch cylinder, master brake and clutch cylinder, transmission synchros and seals, floor boards, sills, fuel tank and lines/filter and pump, electronics, shocks and I am still finding things!

My car is an 87 NA. It is a wonderful car and lent itself willingly to a v8. Laughing Hope this helps!

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Post  gamman Thu Jan 28, 2010 12:28 pm

First, you need to change your avtar pic. Fake or not, its gross.

Second, Tough choice.
I would take the one with the better body, if there is one. Original paint, as stated, is much better to have. Replacing everything in a car sucks. The runner probably has nicer everything. If not, ie: equal, then the turbo is the way to go. The front turbo front end can be bought. The rear end is a 3hr swap. The Rear end if not with LSD isn't that much better anyway. Paint jobs are $2k. If you are superman mechanic, fine, get the turbo. If you are like me, and need/want everything more reasonable, then go with the better runner. You can always upgrade things later. Pics would help.

I also think the "do as I say not as I do" applies here!
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Post  cfgioja Thu Jan 28, 2010 12:48 pm

I am reluctant to post them. But I need honest opinions. Here are the two links.

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Post  944-LT1 Thu Jan 28, 2010 1:10 pm

Huh. Well, after seeing pics of both, the turbos interior looks much better than the NA probably because it wasnt driven. The exterior of the NA is a bit better; it has no dings like the turbo claimed. They both need a respray and the NA would be cheaper and easier to do. The NA has had extensive service and maintenance such as hydraulics and other things.

So its a toss-up really. They are both relatively in the same shape but the turbo is less money and the NA is running. If I had to choose right now which one to buy between those two, I would probably pick the NA. But I would probably look elsewhere and pay a bit more for a nicer example. A turbo with a recently blown engine, with a decent to great body/paint and decent interior is what I would look for. Do you have to choose between these two or can you keep looking?

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Post  gt1scca Thu Jan 28, 2010 1:15 pm

The NA seems to be in better overall condition.
But, It needs interior work.
And suspension/brake upgrades.
Maintenance was probably kept current on the NA...

The Turbo car needs paint.
Interior is OK.
Better suspension & brakes, better trans...

If there is a clear title on the Turbo car, it may be my pick.
Not for $2K though if no title.
Kinda sketchy VIN #, could be a deal breaker...

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Post  cfgioja Thu Jan 28, 2010 1:25 pm

I am stuck in a price range honestly. I can afford 3g max for the car and under 1g for shipping. Its a hard area to be in I know.

I agree on the fact the NA is a running car, I have the wilwoods I can upgrade the brakes too. As you can see the interior is well rough. It runs and has descent looking rims. Maintance seems to be good too. He said he would not hesitate to drive it 1000miles. Also the driver door handle wont open now so he is taking 200 off. In the end I will still have to find a Turbo trans. It has a clean title.

I like the turbo because it has the body, the interior is good. Paint I am not to worried about right now. I have had a scheme in my mind about a paint job since I started my 1/1985. The turbo has the tranny already. It does not run do to the manifold crakcing above the turbo, and a rear main seal that busted. As far as the engine I am not too worried about, but it will have to sit until I get to warmer weather and less school work. The turbo does have a clean title.

I am not stuck to these two but I have the money and I would like to find a new body for my project.
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Post  Porch Thu Jan 28, 2010 3:48 pm

Have you checked Craigslist in your area? You'd be amazed how many of these cars are around in someone's barn.
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Post  cfgioja Thu Jan 28, 2010 3:54 pm

I have been checking craigslist since December. There are a couple blown N/a's around or some that have engine issues. Texas has a couple decent cars, I have a few days still to keep looking for new post though.

As much as I would like to be able to drive a car until I get the conversions swap to this one, in the end the main focus would really be on the body and the options with it, making sure as much of the equipment works.

I dont want to buy a car just because its cheap and have to restore the body, I dont have the equipment to do that as sad as it is to say. I can maintain it and do a few things here and there. I want a good streetable body that I can put the LS1 into.
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Post  Porch Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:09 pm

Well no matter what, the best deal will come up after you've made your purchase Razz

Have you looked on rennlist? I see a bunch of good stuff come up from time to time.
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Post  944-LT1 Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:16 pm

Or pelicanparts!

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Post  cfgioja Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:35 pm

yep, I have been searching both of those, Looked through papers, searched google, craigslist, and ebay.

But you are right now matter what the best deal will always show up after I buy one. Thats how it always goes.
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Post  cfgioja Sat Jan 30, 2010 12:21 am

Thank you all for you advice, I have taken it all in to consideration and thought hard about my decision.I foud a car recently added to craigslist in San Antonio Texas.

it is not the best look turbo out there, not nearly as clean as the previously posted turbo but that one will cost too much to get to me so I wil have to let it go. The sun has done soem damge to the paint, but the seller will have it sanded and primed before the pick up date, that means I can do my paint job at half the price.

It is an 1986 turbo that ran when He put it in the storage building, so honestly there is no reason why it should not run now. I might have to tinker with a couple things but I will make it start again.

If you guys are reading this, If anyone has extra 2nd gen interior pieces hit me up, I may be needing them. The ones in the car are not the best.
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