HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.
Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin
For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.
When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).
After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …
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Let's Talk Accessories - Truck to F-body
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Let's Talk Accessories - Truck to F-body
Alright. I picked up my motor with no accessories and no starter. To get the car moving, I will be running a manual rack and no A/C. What brackets/tensioners/accessories would work for my setup?
I saw this as an example on hybridz for what I would probably like to pull off for starters.
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LS1Tech has a thread of part numbers for such:
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So guys, what would be the best way to handle the accessories?
I saw this as an example on hybridz for what I would probably like to pull off for starters.
[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]
LS1Tech has a thread of part numbers for such:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
So guys, what would be the best way to handle the accessories?
robstah- Posts : 352
Join date : 2009-08-28
Age : 38
Location : Athens, GA
F-body or Truck pulley?
If you have the F-body CRANK pulley then the pictured setup is all you need, if you don't plan on Power steering or AC.
I've got the aftermarket billet tensioner pulley. It has the same mounting dimensions as the factory tensioner pulley, but incorporates a replaceable ROLLER bearing with an inner C-clip for quick change out, worth every penny as the stock plastic one broke just fitting the engine in.
I've got the aftermarket billet tensioner pulley. It has the same mounting dimensions as the factory tensioner pulley, but incorporates a replaceable ROLLER bearing with an inner C-clip for quick change out, worth every penny as the stock plastic one broke just fitting the engine in.
xschop- Posts : 2711
Join date : 2009-06-09
Location : OKC
Speaking of PLASTIC...
SAAB used a GM idler pulley on the mid-90's 4 cyl. (plastic, with a 6203 roller bearing-same bearing as the 1985 Toyota Celica GTS I drive around town...). That damned pulley left us stranded in the hood of Atlanta Monday night, when it disintegrated and launched itself down I-75.
(The Town Car driver that took us to the Marriott was cool luckily (his family is Kenya military)...
I was able to keep my trusty Glock .40 with me...)
In other words...
robstah, scrap that plastic idler pulley.
(The Town Car driver that took us to the Marriott was cool luckily (his family is Kenya military)...
I was able to keep my trusty Glock .40 with me...)
In other words...
robstah, scrap that plastic idler pulley.
gt1scca- Posts : 795
Join date : 2009-06-08
Age : 55
Location : Belton, SC
Re: Let's Talk Accessories - Truck to F-body
That's because mid-90's Saabs were GM's! (And thus began the downward spiral of that funky Swedish brand...)
There really is nothing wrong with those plastic pullies. 99% of idler/tensioner pullies use the same exact bearing. The problem is that most use a cheap bearing. When the bearing locks up, a plastic pulley just disintegrates, usually leaving the belt unharmed. When the bearing on a steel pulley locks up, it destroys the belt, and you STILL need a new pulley/bearing!
Any time i go on a road trip i check the air in my tires, oil level, coolant level, and then i take the tension off the belt to check the idler pulley. Those damn things are good for about 50k miles each. It's pretty easy to replace just the bearing if you're careful, though...
There really is nothing wrong with those plastic pullies. 99% of idler/tensioner pullies use the same exact bearing. The problem is that most use a cheap bearing. When the bearing locks up, a plastic pulley just disintegrates, usually leaving the belt unharmed. When the bearing on a steel pulley locks up, it destroys the belt, and you STILL need a new pulley/bearing!
Any time i go on a road trip i check the air in my tires, oil level, coolant level, and then i take the tension off the belt to check the idler pulley. Those damn things are good for about 50k miles each. It's pretty easy to replace just the bearing if you're careful, though...
Porch- Posts : 851
Join date : 2009-09-02
Age : 42
Re: Let's Talk Accessories - Truck to F-body
Alright. Stock idler pulley is now located in the trash.
Rob, I planned on using the truck crank pulley, C5 water pump spacers, and a truck alternator. I guess my real question is what bracket and tensioner do I use in conjunction with this setup?
Rob, I planned on using the truck crank pulley, C5 water pump spacers, and a truck alternator. I guess my real question is what bracket and tensioner do I use in conjunction with this setup?
robstah- Posts : 352
Join date : 2009-08-28
Age : 38
Location : Athens, GA
Re: Let's Talk Accessories - Truck to F-body
Yeah...
Get stuck in "Crack-a-Lanta" and you'll lose some respect for that plastic pulley.
The Marriott was only about 1/2 mile away, and we were told "You really don't want to walk, even that far, Glock or not."
Robstah,
Use the F-body misc. with the WP spacers, and you're done.
Get stuck in "Crack-a-Lanta" and you'll lose some respect for that plastic pulley.
The Marriott was only about 1/2 mile away, and we were told "You really don't want to walk, even that far, Glock or not."
Robstah,
Use the F-body misc. with the WP spacers, and you're done.
gt1scca- Posts : 795
Join date : 2009-06-08
Age : 55
Location : Belton, SC
Re: Let's Talk Accessories - Truck to F-body
Just clarifying which WP you will use? C5 Vette pump with a Truck Crank pulley needs the water pump spacers.... The F-body ALTERNATOR bracket will need 3/4" spacers behind it as the Truck Alternator bolts right up to it. You then need to mill off the your TRUCK tensioner housing on the back-side where it bolts to the Vette Water pump. I will double check that measurement for you when I get home....
I think the Vette Tensioner would need to be spaced out from the water pump attachment by ????
So verify which tensioner you have in the meantime.
I think the Vette Tensioner would need to be spaced out from the water pump attachment by ????
So verify which tensioner you have in the meantime.
xschop- Posts : 2711
Join date : 2009-06-09
Location : OKC
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