944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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New here, and a suspension question

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New here, and a suspension question Empty New here, and a suspension question

Post  Luke714 Wed Dec 30, 2009 9:25 pm

Hello everyone,

This is my first post, I've been reading it for a while though; seems like it's the place to be for conversions! I hope people will be honest with me if I didn't use the search function properly (I know that's really annoying) or ask stupid questions.

I decided to do the conversion to an LS1 in my 1986 951 a couple of months ago and have decided to attempt the swap next summer, I figured that I'd get a head start on the research. I ordered the conversion manual a little while ago and have read through it a couple of times, what a fantastic resource. I think I've got a pretty accurate price list. The shop manual for the 944 is also on the way and should be here Monday! Because I'm poor and a decent machinist I'm going to attempt all the custom parts on my own, I think that should save a bit of money and add to the satisfaction.

That being said I have a couple of questions and shortcomings:

1. Wiring......
I'm a little confused. So, I'm using the PCM and wiring harness from the LS1. Therefore I should try to get a used motor that have these components, right? I'm just not sure whether I'm supposed to be reprogramming and redoing the computer and harness from the 944 or LS1? Any help with the reprogramming would also be nice, suggested reading or something. As it is obvious I don't know a lot about this area, and haven't ever done much concerning this area of mechanics.

2. Rigid Transmission Mount....
Is there a cheaper alternative to the one from Lindsay Racing?

3. Suspension Setup....
When I bought the car (not all that long ago) there was a brand new set of the koni shocks, so I think I can just increase the spring rates without needing to add more damping.

My Plan:

250# Weltmeister front springs
30mm rear torsion bars
30mm front sway bar
plastic front sway bar bushings
19mm rear sway bar

I don't have the money for a complete set of coilovers.

Does this sound good? I was wondering about the rear torsion bars. The manual suggests 25.5mm, is there any reason not to go with 30mm since they're not a lot more expensive? I don't really care about ride quality, but I know there is such a thing as too stiff.


Thanks for any help you can give me!

Luke
Luke714
Luke714

Posts : 441
Join date : 2009-12-30
Age : 33
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Post  gt1scca Thu Dec 31, 2009 7:08 am

I guess everyone is saving this one for me... Rolling Eyes

Welcome, Luke.

You could have downloaded the shop manual .pdf files for free...
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
But, I understand the benefits of a hard copy as well.

1) The 951 computer and most of the harness are not used. The LS PCM is what you'll be getting reprogrammed. Check out lt1swap.com (http://www.lt1swap.com/index.htm), and LS1Tech.com (http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/523941-need-help-pcm-harness.html). Great resources for wiring info, as well as other LS miscellaneous type-o-thangs.

2) None yet.

3) Have you seen Ground Control's coilovers? The coilover conversion kit is also reasonable...http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=77/CA=219

The torsion bars listed are based on a street-driven, balanced suspension. 30mm effective spring rates are lower than the 25.5mm. Notice that the 25.5 have effective rates of 189 vs. the (front) Weltmeister 250 lb. coils rate of 197. Hard to get closer than that with factory parts...

By balanced I mean, too little / much spring at one end of the car will negatively impact overall handling (and safety if the difference is excessive). I won't get technical just yet, but struts and springs (and bars) should compliment each other.

Thanks (manual), and welcome to our "neck of the woods".

We chop down giants here.

Razz

gt1scca

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Post  Luke714 Thu Dec 31, 2009 9:31 am

yeah I found the online manuals before, but I figured that it was going to cost more for me to print them out myself rather than order the book Rolling Eyes I need a hard copy, also.

Thanks for the wiring information, that is very helpful.

So, I should try and keep the front and rear more or less near equal, and usually never stiffer in the rear? I'm still a little confused about the spring rates, shouldn't the larger diameters have a higher effective spring rate (more material)? If I just accept the chart on page 75 would the 26-29mm be too stiff? By looking at the chart now I can see that the 30mm has a lighter spring rate than the 25.5mm. I guess maybe I should just order the suggested part # from the manual Wink

I hadn't looked at that supplier before (ground control) that definitely looks like a pretty interesting option....

The cars you guys are building look fantastic, btw. I hope to soon have my own 948; probably not as masterly built, but hey, you've got to start somewhere.

Thanks,
Luke
Luke714
Luke714

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Post  gt1scca Thu Dec 31, 2009 10:31 am

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
No sense in repeating the experts...

The listed spring and bar rates maintain the "neutral" suspension balance, the Weltmeister 250 lb. (autocross) springs are stiffer to compensate for the V8 added weight in the front. The 25.5 mm bars are the closest match to the 250 lb. front springs.

A small increase in rear rate may help reduce squat under acceleration, but it may also introduce some unwanted oversteer (i.e. lessen the rear's road-holding ability). Corner balancing also comes into the equation here...

Don't get me started on that...

tongue

gt1scca

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Post  robstah Thu Dec 31, 2009 1:34 pm

Here's a solution for number 2. Definitely a lot cheaper than any aftermarket brace:

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

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New here, and a suspension question Empty I am going to do that

Post  Arthropraxis Thu Dec 31, 2009 2:22 pm

I will do that before the motor goes in. Several people have done this.
Lifted the crossmember removal instructions from rennlist

- support the rear of the car on jackstands - the rear wheels are coming off.
- Support the transmission on a stand, having lifted it slightly with a jack to relieve load on the mounts.
- remove the rear wheels.
- take the nuts off the trans momount bolts. If you get enough 3/8" extensions plugged into each other, you can do this from the passenger wheelwell!
- Use the end of an extension from the same side to drive the mount bolts out. If you balance it right with a jack under the trans, they coem out easily.
- remove the fuel filter bracket.
- remove the transmission mount crossmember [two bolts, one each side]
- withdraw the crossmember through the right wheelwell. I had to disconnect the right lower shock bolt to drop the trailing arm enough to get the crossmember out, but I have 800# springs in the rear. Softer or stock rear suspension will droop enough to clear it. If not, pop the shock bolt off.
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Post  Luke714 Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:00 pm

robstah wrote:Here's a solution for number 2. Definitely a lot cheaper than any aftermarket brace:

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

That seems like a very interesting option... I'm not a member of rennlist, so I couldn't see the pictures, but I think I understand what they are talking about doing. Basically pouring urethane plastic into the cross member to make the mount?? The more I'm reading the more is sounds like the solid mount is REALLY noisy, maybe I want to seriously rethink the complete aluminum mount.....naw, I like a good bit of gear whine Very Happy Does it, however, pose any kind of risk of fracturing the transmission case?

Thanks for the clarification on the suspension setup, that makes a lot of sense...

Appreciate the help and patience you've given me, given the newb type questions I'm asking.

Luke
Luke714
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