944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Clutch Master Upgrade

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cfgioja
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Clutch Master Upgrade Empty Clutch Master Upgrade

Post  xschop Thu Dec 10, 2009 4:28 pm

Thought I would kick this off as this issue needs to be addressed and all input is welcome.
The only info I haven't found on the stock 944 Clutch MC is it's stroke. It's bore is 3/4"
I talked with Lee at Mccleod and he said that Tick Performance gets their fittings directly from him and that they use the 3/4" Wilwood for their C5 upgrade.
Also I got these #'s...
3/4" Wilwood has a 1.1" stroke moving the C5 slave .440"
13/16" Wilwood also has 1.1" stroke moving the C5 slave .500"

Lee says that a 7/8" 1.1" stroke MC would be too large for the LS1 clutch and would require too much pedal pressure.

All this leads me to believe that the 3/4" 944 MC may have shorter than the optimum stroke to move the C5 slave volume resulting in some of these swapped cars having clutch disengagement issues...

Please chime in with real world experience and knowlege and lets get this problem solved.
Also he suggested 3/4" Willwood 260-3374 (Tick Performance uses)
and as an upgrade 13/16" Willwood 260-5920 as possibly being optimal choice.
But for the 944 fitment in that area, the new ultra compact MC's are the way to go....
Wilwood 3/4" 260-10372
Wilwood 13/16" 260-10373
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Clutch Master Upgrade Empty Re: Clutch Master Upgrade

Post  gt1scca Thu Dec 10, 2009 7:08 pm

I have a theory...

How many people have NEW 944 clutch master cylinders installed?
Not many I bet...

If a 3/4" bore is adequate, a 20 year old hydraulic cylinder (that has been "non-functional" for X years) may not be up to moving the same as-new volume.

I can find the stroke limit of the 944 MC...
Give me ~30 minutes.

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Post  ghostcloak Thu Dec 10, 2009 7:18 pm

I had a new brake mc installed during the swap, but not a new clutch mc Sad
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Clutch Master Upgrade Empty Re: Clutch Master Upgrade

Post  gt1scca Thu Dec 10, 2009 7:21 pm

Faster than that...

From mounting flange to end of pushrod @ relaxed piston position = 131 MM
From mounting flange to end of pushrod @ compressed piston position = 98 MM
(This is bottomed out, so actual stroke may be closer to 1.0 IN...)

A difference of 33 MM / 1.27 IN

944 MC bore and stroke are copasetic...
I say replace those ragged MCs.

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Clutch Master Upgrade Empty looks like something else to add to the budget

Post  Arthropraxis Thu Dec 10, 2009 8:47 pm

What would be better wilwood or stock?
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Clutch Master Upgrade Empty Re: Clutch Master Upgrade

Post  968ls1 Thu Dec 10, 2009 9:31 pm

I have used both the stock Pcar clutch master as well as a Tilton 7/8. The stock units seem to work fine when new and the clutch is a stock self height adjusting type pressure plate. When using aftermarket clutches they seem to require a little more travel from the master cylinder to make easy engagement into first and reverse. If you track your car you will find the larger master will make quick gear changes more consistent with less chance of the occasional gear grind. Check out the C5 forums regarding the Tick master cylinder that solves C5 clutch engagement issues. The Tick unit is a Tilton that is modified to mount in the vette. My advice is put a 7/8 master in and leave your shifting issues behind. Oh yea the tilton will have to be modified slightly to bolt up to the stock location on the firewall,

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Post  gt1scca Thu Dec 10, 2009 9:31 pm

I just found this...

"Aluminum cylinders with either a detachable or remote fill reservoirs, or a one-piece integral reservoir version, are available in three bore sizes from .625" to .750" with a full 1.4" of stroke to accommodate short pedal ratios, small brake calipers, and hydraulic clutch actuation on space limited applications."


Last edited by gt1scca on Thu Dec 10, 2009 10:06 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Post  gt1scca Thu Dec 10, 2009 9:38 pm

Tom,

Is there a chance of overtravel of the C5 slave?

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Post  968ls1 Thu Dec 10, 2009 10:55 pm

I am not really sure on the over travel of the slave but I am sure there is a limit not to mention over traveling the pressure plate. The 7/8" gave me just enough more travel so gear selection is easy. I have a short shift on the trans and it requires a little more pressure for gear engagement and when the clutch drags it can sometimes be a bitch getting into 1st or reverse. The 7/8 really improved the clutch actuation and drive ability.

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Post  gt1scca Thu Dec 10, 2009 11:12 pm

Thanks Tom,

It helps greatly when someone has "been there" already...
It's been about 5 years since I called you. You were just starting the 968 conversion at the time.

I'm planning on using the C5 BH and slave on an LT1, so travel may (or may not) be an issue with the difference in overall clutch height / depth.

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Post  gt1scca Thu Dec 10, 2009 11:31 pm

Compact Remote Combination Master Cylinder 7/8" Bore Size
#260-10374
"Wilwood’s Compact Combination Master Cylinders have been designed for limited space applications requiring the output capacity of a full size master cylinder. The ultra short 3.37”compact body provides 2.16” of additional clearance between the mounting flange and the fluid outlet. A full 1.12” of piston stroke meets or exceeds the stroke capacity of most full size cylinders. With 1/8” NPT fluid outlet port located at the top radius of the cylinder bore, reduces the chances for trapped air. The black E-Coated aluminum body resists corrosion and maintains a durable long lasting finish."

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Shorter than the 944 master, by .31 inches...

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Post  968gene Fri Dec 11, 2009 6:07 am

I'm having a friend do a little research today to see if there is an OEM "upgrade" (i.e. Audi, Porsche, BMW) that will be a true bolt on and not require an adapter or any modifications...I'll post anything he finds. My gut tells me there should be a 7/8 bore MC out there with the same flange.
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Clutch Master Upgrade Empty A.P.B.

Post  xschop Fri Dec 11, 2009 8:28 am

Anything but the 3 german builders..... That's sacrilegious to a hybrider's code of ethics! Razz
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Clutch Master Upgrade Empty APB

Post  968gene Fri Dec 11, 2009 8:36 am

OK, we're also looking into a Studebaker retro fit as well...
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Clutch Master Upgrade Empty So,

Post  Arthropraxis Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:43 pm

Any progress on finding a direct fit 7/8" master or just replace with the factory unit?
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Post  Porch Fri Dec 18, 2009 10:48 am

I have used CNC products before (they're mostly roundy-round stuff):
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The bolt spacing might be a little different, but then again that might solve some of the punch-through issues people were having....
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Clutch Master Upgrade Empty Bingo

Post  xschop Sun Dec 20, 2009 8:01 pm

It was warm enough to go play on the beast outside. Took apart the clutch MC from the firewall....
First things first how the #$^# do you get the Fuse box out after unscrewing the 2 tabs? It feels like it is still spring loaded from underneath!
Anyways long story short.... after mocking up the 5/8" MC I had on hand, The 944 firewall studs are 8mm and 50mm C2C... The wilwood/Tiltons are 57mm C2C... What this means is the Wilwood bolt holes have plenty of meat to be slotted the 3.5mm on each side and it slips right in the 944 firewall.... no adapter required... The remote reservoir cap even clears the Tilton Dual brake setup when it is on it's side and this positions the 1/8 NPT output end of the MC for even more connection clearance... The pushrod will have to be worked out when the Willwood shows up. I will be able to confirm if the stock 944 Clutch pushrod can just be turned down on the lathe or a new longer one made from scratch.....
So good news again....The 7/8" Wilwood 260-10374 is on its way Very Happy
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Post  944-LT1 Sun Dec 20, 2009 8:25 pm

First things first how the #$^# do you get the Fuse box out after unscrewing the 2 tabs?

There are like 500 wires (well alot anyway) under the fuse panel that are curled and if its cold out, the panel is near impossible to pull up. But no, theres nothing under there that is holding it down. When you do get it to pull up, it only comes up about 5-6 inches unless you really get it warm inside the car in which case you can get it up quite a bit.

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Post  968ls1 Sun Dec 20, 2009 11:29 pm

xschop,
You will also need to mill the body of the master cylinder so the nuts will have room to clear and allow room for a socket to tighten them. The stock push rod was too short when I did mine but I can't remember by how much but no more than an inch.

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Post  gt1scca Sun Dec 20, 2009 11:37 pm

Cut some zip-ties free...
Half a dozen or so hold the harness in place.

I was able to move the fuse panel completely to the outside of the mounting location, and didn't have to disconnect anything. Gained about a foot of freedom with a little "snip_snip"...

968ls1 wrote:The stock push rod was too short when I did mine but I can't remember by how much but no more than an inch.
The drawing I posted adds 25 MM to the stock length, so without the .25" plate, the pushrod drawing should be what you need, as it is adjustable by ~30 MM.


Last edited by gt1scca on Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:27 am; edited 1 time in total

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Post  968ls1 Mon Dec 21, 2009 7:51 am

The distance from the pedal to the Tilton/Willwood master is longer than the stock unit; the stock unit extends farther into the passenger compartment. I also have a reinforcing plate on my firewall to add strength and that made my push rod longer as well.

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Clutch Master Upgrade Empty push rod length

Post  968gene Mon Dec 21, 2009 8:03 am

968ls1 wrote:The distance from the pedal to the Tilton/Willwood master is longer than the stock unit; the stock unit extends farther into the passenger compartment. I also have a reinforcing plate on my firewall to add strength and that made my push rod longer as well.

How did you handle the difference?
Thanks, Gene Exclamation


Last edited by 968gene on Mon Dec 21, 2009 8:07 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : spelling !)
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Post  xschop Mon Dec 21, 2009 8:07 am

No Milling required....I have some low profile m8 x 1.25 nuts and an open end wrench for that.
There may be enough room to make a pushrod adapter that just screws onto the Wilwood assembled pushrod. If not the Wilwood can be disassembled and the factory rod removed.
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Post  968ls1 Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:54 am

I removed the Tilton push rod and spliced (welded) it to the factory push rod. I put a sleeve between the two peices for some overlap and welded it in place. It would probably be best to make an new one like xschop but the day I did mine I did not any bar stock to make a new one.

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Post  gt1scca Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:38 am

The full spec...

(Edit in progress...)


This should be squeaky-close, without actually mocking it up on the firewall, and without
using the firewall plate. Add the thickness of the plate if reinforcing the firewall...

Test-fit may prove a slight length adjustment, but the adjustability of ~30MM should
get it PD close.


Last edited by gt1scca on Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:17 pm; edited 1 time in total

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