HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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LS3 conversion

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LS3 conversion - Page 2 Empty Re: LS3 conversion

Post  matt889 on Tue Nov 20, 2018 9:01 pm

it looks like the clutch Hub wasnt the same splines.... like you had a hair bigger of spline room Shocked i have a brand new TPC clutch on my workbench if you need specs

matt889

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Post  sharkey on Tue Nov 20, 2018 10:13 pm

as far as i know, the chrysler 1"-23 spline is not the same profile spline as the porsche 1"-23 spline. when i was searching for my clutch i found a number of discs listed as 23 spline and others listed as 23m spline. i was able to find a disc that was tagged online as 23m spline (was from an rx7) and that was a tight fit on the splines, so 23m spline was the route i took. i cant say i tried a 23 spline disc as i didnt have one available.

for an ls swap, the spec conversion disc is the way to go, they are built specifically to fit the splines of our torque tube.

any play in the splines and the end result is exactly what you have. the play causes it to hammer back and forth, and the loose fit causes the load to be transferred onto the tips of the splines.

sharkey

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Post  tannerhwilson on Wed Nov 21, 2018 7:07 am

Matt, The clutch disk I had installed was the conversion disk TPC sends in their package. Like you said, the disk had just a hair of play... so you may want to check your fit on your project. I guess I should contact Kent about the issue... don't think he's going to be able to do much for me though...

I'm going to place an order for the SPEC stage 2, are there any other things I should be concerned about?. I've got the stock MC, but I think I recall something about getting a different size MC?

Sharkey & Rich thanks for the help


tannerhwilson

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Post  sharkey on Wed Nov 21, 2018 1:14 pm

i dont think anyone has put any solid correlation between what clutch is being used and master cylinder bore size when we are talking about these swaps. some people have the stock 3/4" bore work fine, others end up with a clutch pedal thats too low and require going with a 13/16 or 7/8 bore master cylinder. i think the best thing to do is install the clutch and try it.

sharkey

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Post  tannerhwilson on Mon Apr 29, 2019 8:27 pm

Some updates:

I was able to drop and replace the torque tube with a low mile unit. With the rear suspension down I took the time to upgrade the torsion bars to 28 mm bars, complimented by paragon's coilover system with 250lb spring. I also had the trans "refreshed" and replaced the 2nd gear synchro, taller 5th gear... filled it with amsoil 75w-90.

I put everything back together including the spec clutch and took the car out for a drive. Initial thoughts: tough to shift into 1st, especially when stopped, I think these cars are known for that though. I just shift into 1st while moving or go into 2nd and then 1st when stopped. The sychros have since worn in a bit and it is much easier to shift.

The more concerning issues that have developed are:
1) that the stick gets violently shot out of 3rd gear sometimes... (right after shifting to 3rd mostly)
2) the shifter moves forward and backwards a lot when on/off load only in 4th gear.
3) under full load in 4th gear I can visibly shifter and tube tube rise.

Any input/advice before I go back to the rebuilder?

Thanks


tannerhwilson

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Post  sharkey on Mon Apr 29, 2019 10:30 pm

being a little stiff to get into first gear at a dead stop is somewhat normal. if you go to 2nd and back to first and it goes in, then there is nothing wrong there. one thing that can have an affect on it is oil type, i noticed with the amsoil my n/a box was a little stiff going into gear sometimes, i switched to redline mt90 and it still it a little stiff at times, but its less frequent.

now popping out of 3rd gear and the shifter moving excessively when on/off the throttle would lead me to think the mainshaft is floating forward/backward. this could be the four point contact bearing (the one in the very back of the transmission in the rear housing), either it floating in the case, or the bolt in the back of the mainshaft may not be tight. does anything funny happen in 5th gear?

the shifter moving up when under heavy load isnt likely the trans itself, thats going to be engine or transmission mounts allowing the drivetrain to lift up under load.

sharkey

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Post  tannerhwilson on Tue Apr 30, 2019 9:54 am

Sharkey-

nothing strange in 5th gear... only 3rd (shifter popping) and (4th shifter moves forward and back and tube moves up).

As far as the torque tube goes, I figured it was the mounts as well. I went and checked the motor mounts and found them to be okay, and inspected the rear trans mount (lindsey racing ultra "semi solid mount"). I tried to move the trans left right and up and down, it felt solid. May have to climb under and try to tighten up those bolts, though I think they are good. I also checked the bellhousing bolts both at the front and back of the tube.

Thank you for all your advice!

tannerhwilson

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Post  Rich L. on Mon May 06, 2019 10:37 am

I would look into the "inclination" angle of the shift lever. Perhaps that same up/down movement in 4th is happening and 3rd and pushing the lever against the body, knocking it out of gear. The pivot point at the bottom of the shift lever is movable, adjusting it forward slightly would decrease the "inclination" angle a bit and give it more room in 3rd and less in 4th. Might clear up both issues.

Read "Adjusting the Shift Lever" toward the bottom of this page:
[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Good luck,
Rich
Rich L.
Rich L.

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Post  tannerhwilson on Fri May 10, 2019 7:05 am

Rich,

Good points.

I tried adjusting the shifter prior, but to no result. I also have the short shift kit from only944, so my shifter has plenty of clearance from the body.

I ended up jacking up the rear wheels off the ground to inspect the trans. In neutral I tried turning one wheel (open diff) and felt and heard some resistance. I ended up dropping the trans and found even more binding with it on my workbench. On the bench I cannot shift the unit into 1st or 2nd gear. Strangely, when shifting into 3rd gear the input shaft is sucked into the case, and the opposite occurs in 4th, the shaft is pushed out. 5th and reverse have no movement of the input shaft.

Sending it back to the trans re builder today.

Any ideas as to what could be causing this?

Thanks

tannerhwilson

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Post  sharkey on Fri May 10, 2019 12:54 pm

the only way the input shaft can move in and out of the case is if the rear bearing is bad, the races for it are missing, or the rear bolt is not tight or missing. you can pop the end plug out real easy and have a look.

sharkey

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Post  Rich L. on Sat May 11, 2019 10:55 am

Yeah, that's something internal that's not put back together right. Bummer.
Rich L.
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Post  tannerhwilson on Sun Jul 14, 2019 7:34 pm

Been a while but I removed the trans and had the shop take a look at it.. seems that the circlip that holds 5th gear was either forgotten or was eaten up... my money on the first.

The shop rebuilt it and everything is all good and I've got it back installed. Night and day difference.

I'm currently battling some cooling issues during the summer. While moving the coolant temps will stay below or at ~215, but when sitting in traffic temp creep up into the 230s. I put the heater on to drop the temps but I'd like to not roast. Also plan on adding AC at some point so I need to get this issue ironed out.

I'm running 50/50 dexcool, the stock LS3 thermostat, TPC radiator & fan shroud, and a GMPP harness/computer is controlling them. I believe the gmpp harness/computer turns the fan(s) on around 200 at one speed (High). I also have the fans wired up parallel so the single wire from the fuse box is controlling both. If I am correct about the controller only having one speed and trigger... I'm a bit disappointed with its simplicity. Seems a bit alarming that there is only one temp to trigger the fans

Any suggestions? Upgrade fans? Upgrade Radiator? Air pocket in Cooling system? Thermostat? Seal the Shroud better?

Thanks

tannerhwilson

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Post  sharkey on Sun Jul 14, 2019 7:38 pm

what are you using for a heater valve? is it a 2 port like the factory one, or is it a 4 port that allows the coolant to bypass?

due to the design of the thermostat, an ls engine will not cool properly if you block the coolant flow of coolant in the heater hose circuit.

sharkey

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Post  tannerhwilson on Sun Jul 14, 2019 8:07 pm

I'm running this valve [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] I've got the vacuum on the valve running to port 5 in this picture [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

tannerhwilson

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Post  tannerhwilson on Wed Jul 17, 2019 8:39 pm

Okay so I went back and checked out my heater valve. I have the valve with 4 ports that is vacuum operated. I have the vacuum line from the H valve going to port 5 on the picture above. I also have vacuum supply running to port 4 (and T'd to the vacuum chamber) from the brake booster port on the back of the intake manifold.

However, the valve is always engaged regardless of the temperature setting. There is a constant vacuum being supplied to it, whether hot or cold is selected via the temp knob, so the valve never opens and I do not get heat...

I also used some aluminum duct tape to better seal the shroud to the radiator, which helps with cooling a bit.... doesn't "cool" per say, but the car doesn't get hotter. Also went with a 25:75 coolant to water mix. Seems to be running cooler.

tannerhwilson

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Post  sharkey on Wed Jul 17, 2019 10:02 pm

the heater valve is my first question i ask with an ls swap in anything in regards to running hot. so many people overlook the need for a bypassing valve, and when suggest it completely disregard it and go back to the "i need bigger fans/rad".

switching coolant may have been because of an air pocket, i dont find a higher water to antifreeze ratio generally fixes cooling system issues.

ducting is an important thing for cooling. i had issues with my swap (not an ls) with it running hotter than it should, and part of it was because i didnt have a lower splash shield, a lot of the air was just going through the bumper and under the car instead of going through the rad. the more you can force the air to go through the rad instead of around it the better.

all gm computers have 2 fan possible fan outputs, however they arent active in all applications. adding a second fan control circuit is just adding a wire to the ecm plug and activating it and setting the temps in the ecm with hp tuners.

sharkey

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