944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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944 NA suspension suggestions

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Post  matt889 Mon May 07, 2018 3:14 pm

Hi I have a 86 Na currently on kyb front and rear inserts . Front has sp200 welmeister lowering springs and rear tbars are stock. I added a rear sway bar 19mm. The engine is a iron 6L from a Savana. I would like to know what front setup you guys would have on a heavy iron ? Rear drops like crazy on Accel. Front goes crazy due to weight . My thoughts are that I'm at the max travel with the iron block inside. More info on demand . The rear is lowered via eccentric and I didn't reindex tbars yet

matt889

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Post  sharkey Mon May 07, 2018 7:01 pm

really depends on what your going to use the car for and how much you want to spend, if you want to eliminate the torsion bars and go coilover, etc.

if you just want to make the car a little stiffer, a set of weltmeister 250 lb springs will help, i think thats the stiffest drop in front spring you can get. combined that with some 26 or 27mm torsion bars in the back should be alright.

going up from there would be the koni/ground control coilover setup that paragon-products.com sells, you can choose any spring weight you want, and they are just an off the shelf coilover spring so experimenting isnt that expensive. this also gives you adjustable rebound damping. from here on up it gets fairly pricey, kw v3 coilovers are $3200+ for a set, and you could spend $6-8k at the higher range.

no matter what you do i wouldnt run a stock na front swaybar with the 19mm out back, with the additional weight on the front and the large rear bar the car might get tail happy, the 968 m030 front bar is designed to compliment the 19mm rear.

sharkey

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Post  matt889 Mon May 07, 2018 7:15 pm

i would like the car to be Street and one or 2 track events a year . What im conserned about is that its too low and i dont have enough travel when i do hit bumps on the highway( i find it wants to leave the straight line ! ) at the moment im not sure if the bars in the rear is a 18 or a 19 they have many paint colors on them... More a 18 than a 19 ! As for budget i was thinking some Coil kit in the front with inserts ? that is 260 + each inserts ! Or try just the coil kit in the front and go with some Bilstein Shocks in the rear or Konis ! to stiffing up the rear from Seating like this.

matt889

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Post  sharkey Mon May 07, 2018 9:33 pm

the weltmeister springs are a lowering spring, you can use a spring spacer to make them "stock" height. a better bet would be an adjustable coilover setup. like i said, check out paragon-products, the complete setup for the front of these cars is about $700, all ready to go. thats a ground control sleeve, koni single adjustable insert, spring, spring hat, everything you need but the camber plates. for the rear, a good set of shocks will slow down the squat, but its still gonna squat as much as it does now, the only way to reduce squat will be stiffer torsion bars.

if the car is wandering id have a close look at all your bushings, balljoints and tie rod ends. these cars are more than 30 years old, stuff is rotted and worn out. my car drove fine with the stock engine, after i doubled the power, it wasnt happy, and was downright scary with triple the horsepower. biggest thing was the balljoints were worn out, you need to pay close attention to those because if they get loose they can damage the control arm and you cant use the rebuild kit and must replace the entire arm. i kinda went nuts with my car and installed monoball bearings in every location i could, however there is more affordable options with urethane parts. my setup is pretty tame suspension wise (bilstein hd struts/ shocks that are 5+ years old, old weltmeister 220 lb springs, 27mm torsion bars, stock na swaybars) but all those monoball bearings make the car very precise and predictable.


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Post  matt889 Tue May 08, 2018 6:22 am

I will look into it ! I wanted to know; I didn't see anything on subframe alignment? It is slotted a little and does it have a center spot? I'm due to retorq all my swap bolts since my last run any pointers my

matt889

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Post  eohrnberger Thu Jul 05, 2018 3:45 pm

I have had great improvement in handling results by corner balancing the car, so that its as close to 50% / 50% weight distribution as you can.

My setup ended up at 48% front, 52% rear, but for that, you'll need to have threaded collars to adjust the spring perch height at each corner for adjustment (usually comes with a coil over setup).

And the results have paid off. My data system regularly records 1 G latterals at each corner apex.
eohrnberger
eohrnberger

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Post  racertomtom Sun Jul 08, 2018 6:25 pm

eohrnberger wrote:I have had great improvement in handling results by corner balancing the car, so that its as close to 50% / 50% weight distribution as you can.  

My setup ended up at 48% front, 52% rear, but for that, you'll need to have threaded collars to adjust the spring perch height at each corner for adjustment (usually comes with a coil over setup).

And the results have paid off.  My data system regularly records 1 G latterals at each corner apex.
Now you could adjust your camber and/or sway bars so that the tire temperatures are equal across the width of all 4 tires. You could also throw some weight to the inside of the track. That's about as good as it gets.

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Post  eohrnberger Sun Jul 08, 2018 6:34 pm

racertomtom wrote:
eohrnberger wrote:I have had great improvement in handling results by corner balancing the car, so that its as close to 50% / 50% weight distribution as you can.  

My setup ended up at 48% front, 52% rear, but for that, you'll need to have threaded collars to adjust the spring perch height at each corner for adjustment (usually comes with a coil over setup).

And the results have paid off.  My data system regularly records 1 G latterals at each corner apex.
Now you could adjust your camber and/or sway bars so that the tire temperatures are equal across the width of all 4 tires. You could also throw some weight to the inside of the track. That's about as good as it gets.

Yeah, good suggestion.

Right now, I've got things dialed in slightly adjusting the cold tire pressures to get the desired hot tire pressures. Last of the track logging I recall, I think I was within 1/2 PSI across all 4 tires, which I figure as being pretty good.

Now, to pull the engine, and see what rod bearing(s) I spun last time at the track. Yeah, gonna be another engine build, which is kinda why I was toying with the idea of swapping in an LS2, if I can't get this engine to be reliable under fairly hard track use.
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