HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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LSA Supercharged 86 Porsche 944

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LSA Supercharged 86 Porsche 944 - Page 3 Empty Re: LSA Supercharged 86 Porsche 944

Post  superman22x on Mon Jan 28, 2019 6:27 am

Awesome, glad the vibration is sorted out.  I'm going to attempt to make my own splines for the Porsche side of the coupling. I am making a dividing wheel for my lathe and I'm going to plunge a tool bit manually to make the splines.
Can you easily get to where those bolts are with an Allen wrench when it is installed in the car?
For the axles, I need different sizes anyway since my car is an early one, my axles are 16.25".  My driver side will need to be about 15.5" for this trans.  I'm going to try and make those myself as well from 4340 with a dividing head on the mill.

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Post  LSA_944 on Tue Jan 29, 2019 6:45 am

I tried to get the coupler splines cut professionally but nobody could do it for me and my fabrication shop at work doesn't have the proper CNC bits (yet) to cut them. Spline cutting tools/bits can be extremely costly yet have very little return on investment. Especially our splines which seem to be unique to porsche and some VWs. From my research, I think the porsche splines are 23 spline, 24.2 mm Diameter, involute splines and the trans is 23 spline, 25.4 mm Diameter, involute splines. I wanted to make my coupler repairable so I simply made it so a clutch disc spline can bolt right up to it in the even I shred them. That part of the coupler is my weakest point (but still extremely strong). The front screws that hold the coupler in place are in the same location as the groove cut into the torque shaft. They are accessible through the little hole in the torque tube as with the original coupler. The bolts into the rear of my coupler are through bolts that thread into the otherside of the coupler. This bolt has a steel sleeve on the inside portion of the bolt that stops against the tip of the input shaft of the trans. This allows trans removals to be far easier. Good luck with your install and wish you the best at attempting it all DIY. Let me know how you plan tackle the shifter connection to the trans. As you can see in my pics, I first attempted to route everything through the hole in the trans housing by removing material to enlarge it. Ultimately, this was unnecessary for my final install. Just keep in mind that you may have to modify the trans casing a bit depending on how you design your shift connections and it is much easier to do this with the trans out of the car (one would this to be rather obvious but I tested the theory anyway and it is way easier with it out). Let me know if you have any questions or need some help.

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Post  superman22x on Tue Jan 29, 2019 7:50 pm

I'm thinking a TCMT 2152 insert will give me the correct profile for the splines.  This is what I have seen used by some other to make axles as well.  It's not a true involute profile, but should be close enough.  

For the shifter mechanism, this is what I have so far.  I just fit it together with set screws to test it.  But I don't see any problems making it work.  I will just weld up the joints to make it fit better.  I need to trim the aluminum block that mounts to the shift rod into the transmission.  

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Post  superman22x on Tue Jan 29, 2019 8:00 pm

This is the thread with the cutter I was referring too.  He uses TGP321 inserts.  Nearly the same as the TCMT2152 inserts I have, just slightly smaller nose radius.  But for our application, the larger nose radius will work well I think.

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Post  superman22x on Tue Feb 12, 2019 9:16 am

I have made my torque tube coupling now, or nearly complete. I tried cutting internal splines in a chunk of scrap aluminum. My home-made tool didn't quite work, it didn't provide enough support for the TCMT insert. So it broke the insert too easily. The profile was looking good up until that point. I may try again in the future. For now however, I made something similar to yours. I coupled a 944 torque tube coupler to an audi clutch hub. The 944 coupling lightly press fits inside of my machined part. I plan to use 3 5/16 dowel pins to constrain them together. I may weld as well, but the dowel pins have 16,000 lbs double shear strength each, so I may skip the welding. That's good for about 2,400 ft-lbs of torque where they are on the shaft diameter (OD of the Porsche torque tube coupler). In comparison, the torque tube shaft is good for around 880 ft-lbs in a perfect world (1" shaft, assumed tensile strength of 108,000psi).

Anyway, here's what it looks like:

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Post  LSA_944 on Tue Feb 19, 2019 9:57 pm

Looks like you are nearing completion. How does the shifts feel using the 944 shift bar? I went with shift cables due to the adjust-ability with them but I like how clean yours looks reusing the original shift bar. I may go that route in the future if I run into any issues with the cables. Did you add anything to the coupler to prevent the torque shaft from walking out of the pilot bearing?

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Post  superman22x on Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:48 am

I didn't think about torque tube shaft movement. I thought those bolts were only to remove slop from the spline and to keep just the coupling from moving. I only put the one bolt in.

The shifter needs some more work, it currently bumps into the frame. I need to tweak it a little. And I'm putting in a better Ujoint.

What did you do for mounting? Did you reuse the late trans mount?

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Post  LSA_944 on Fri Feb 22, 2019 2:03 pm

Yeah, the torque shaft can "walk" out from the pilot bearing due to slight vibrations and such. I just measured how far the tip of the trans input shaft sits inside the coupler and drilled/tapped for a bolt to pass through the inside of the coupler. This will act as a stop to prevent the torque shaft from wlking back. Be sure to do all your measurements with the torque shaft seated properly in the pilot bearing with appropriate tolerances. The coupler spins with the trans input shaft so the bolt will not be "rubbing" or anything against the tip.

For my trans mount, I used the existing late model mount on the frame and built a custom mounting bracket for the trans to mount to it out of 3/4" tube for strength. Might be overkill but I didn't want the trans to move around too much.

Keep posting with your shifter updates. I tried looking at resuing the 944 shift shaft but didn't think it would be feasible. Looks like you may be about to prove me wrong. I went with the shift cables due to the limit space to work with. But if you get it all worked out I may replicate what you did.

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Post  superman22x on Sun Feb 24, 2019 8:45 pm

Update on the shifter.  I got my U-joint on the shifter figured out.  I ended up making on with some pins.  A steering ujoint was too large, and decent industrial ones were expensive.  

To get it to work, I needed some kind of "guide" for the shifter shaft.  I made a bushing that fits in the hole of the o1e where the slave cylinder usually passes, and over the shifter shaft.  It's about 0.05" in diameter smaller than the opening so it moves freely.  I made it out of aluminum because I had it available, but delrin would be better
The shifter feels nice.  But the left to right motion does not quite pull it all the way to reverse, so I need to tweak that part of the mechanism.

I'll try and get some pictures up.  I don't have a good way to do it from my phone.

EDIT: Finally getting around to those pictures:
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Post  LSA_944 on Sat Mar 09, 2019 5:04 pm

It's looking good. You probly just need to shorten the support bracket on the end a bit to increase travel ratio to hit reverse. I had the same issue making the shift mechanism using cables. Reverse is a considerable throw compared to the other gears. I was considering making a "ball" type shift mechanism using the 944 shift shaft with a ball joint type end connected to the shifter on the trans. This is similar to what the original o1E uses with Audi and VW. But, I just didn't think I would be able to hit all the gears with it. I may start mocking something up here in the future to look into a bit more. Or, I may go your route as well. Keep posting your progress please.

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Post  superman22x on Mon Mar 25, 2019 8:01 pm

Ok, I have went full circle on my design... Back to original basically.  I tried the U-Joint design, and I tried adding in a bushing to help with the flex, but it did not work.  What I ended up doing was making a solid bar that is bent to pass through the hole where the clutch slave cylinder mounts.  I also opened up the slave cylinder opening with a die grinder another 1/4" on each side to give enough side to side motion.  I cut about 5" off the Porsche shifter shaft and pin this extension from inside the bell housing.  A little more difficult to put together with the transmission installed, but not terrible.  I can hit all the gears with this design, including reverse.

I have the trans mounted and coupling together.  I dropped off my axles for heat treating on Saturday, once they are done, I will finish machine them.  

Here's the pictures of the shifter I finished with (pictures are before I clearanced the hole).  Simple in the end...  Oh well, I learned plenty making my Ujoint and such.  


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Post  superman22x on Wed Apr 17, 2019 6:27 pm

Well I thought I was complete with my swap.  Finally started the car to move it out of the garage to make space to finish painting my bike.  Unfortunately, when in neutral, the transmission has a rattling sound that comes and goes.  I'm not sure if it's just the coupling on the input shaft, or if it's something more concerning...  My fear is more misaligned shafts.

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Post  LSA_944 on Sat Apr 20, 2019 6:33 pm

Can you pinpoint where the sound is coming from? If the coupler or shaft was misaligned, I would assume there would be excessive vibrations in addition to any sounds. My guess is that something has loosened and is rattling against something or perhaps your new shift shaft is bumping up against the trans somewhere. Let me know what you find out. Another possibility is that one of the screw/bolts on the coupler has backed out and is rubbing/impacting the torque tube or trans.

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Post  superman22x on Sat Apr 20, 2019 8:33 pm

I plan to put it up on stands and pinpoint the rattle more. I never thought to check the shifter, that's a good idea.
I wonder if it would have been worth integrating the guibo the Corvette uses on its driveshaft.

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LSA Supercharged 86 Porsche 944 - Page 3 Empty Nice work so far.

Post  teh_Fawker on Thu May 30, 2019 1:16 pm

Did you ever pinpoint the rattle/vibration?

I bought an 01E 6 speed for a TDI A6/S4 (from germany), 968 trans mount, axles, shift bar, an extra torque tube coupler, and a clutch disk (for the splined hub) from Fleabay, unfortunately I don't have a lathe or mill so I was going to take the pieces to a machine shop to see what they could come up with.

Was also thinking maybe the slits on the torque tube coupler could be routed further and the clamp re-welded to get the 1mm spline difference.

Not sure how it could be rebalanced (if that would even be an issue).

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Post  superman22x on Thu May 30, 2019 2:04 pm

I wasn't able to find anything wrong, but the rattling sound went away... It could just be that oil hadn't made it's way into all the creavices since the transmission sat dry for months. I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet though. Hoping to do that soon...

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