HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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1986 LS2 Conversion

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:09 am

Or switch to a different water pump so you can flip the TB. Check my "Hood Clearance" thread for a little info on a member who did that.

That's what I was really hoping to do. Thanks I'll check that out

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Wed Jun 08, 2016 10:03 am

Was e-mailing Matt at GPX tuners and he says I don't need to change anything else if I get a car ls2 DBW throttle body. Cheapest used I found is $200 and they run $380 new.

Even though he says I won't have a problem I don't like the idea of changing it cause it was a huge thing on LS1 tech when i asked about what gas pedal to get and the pedal had to match the TB.... but I also don't like the idea of messing with the exterior of the hood.

Still looking at water-pump solutions. Don't see how to get it to work though since it looks like i need the truck style water pump but I have car accessory spacing

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Thu Jun 09, 2016 7:53 am

Ordered the stinking throttle body. I am not happy paying that much for this but oh well Rolling Eyes


And guess what else is a kick in the pants! I changed the whole accessory spacing and got the new crank pulley because I didn't have enough clearance for the fans, right? Well what part of my accessories was sticking out the furthest? The snout on the water pump, same as a lot of people. Little did I know that If i actually bought the right water pump (LS2) for my engine I wouldn't have had that problem. They are designed with a shallower pulley for, you guessed it, more fan clearance.

I guess you could say I'm really learning alot. Here's a pic of them side by side.
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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  superman22x on Fri Jun 10, 2016 10:28 am

I think all the E40, E38, and E67 pedals will work. If you use a truck pedal, you need to swap some wires, but that's it. You can even run the pedals from other cars that didn't use LS engines. LT1Swap.com covers that I think. The TB is a little more difficult. Once you get into the E38 and E67 controllers, it's a little easier. The E40 had a short run with the LS engines.

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Mon Jun 13, 2016 8:32 am

Surprise surprise the trans mount I made from eye-balling Robb's wasn't perfect first try! I'm actually surprised it was as close as it was. Had to adjust forward 13/16" and now the trans is in with the coupler connected and shifter/linkage connected.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]20160611_220651 by Frosted Flake, on Flickr

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]20160612_140955 by Frosted Flake, on Flickr

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Mon Jun 13, 2016 7:29 pm

Quick question. The bracket for the lights that extends into the engine bay is making fitting my air filter a nightmare. Does this bracket serve any purpose or can I cut it off?

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]20160613_201616 by Frosted Flake, on Flickr

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  Techno Duck on Mon Jun 13, 2016 7:57 pm

Stops the light from vibrating when its up.

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Tue Jun 14, 2016 7:37 am

Thanks Jon. that seems to be kinda important. I'll have to work around it then.

Got the different throttle body last night and confirmed that the hood now closes. The air filter has to be in the exact right location for it to not hit the underside of the hood, to clear the expansion tank, and clear that counter weight/bracket on the back of the headlights. If it was a straight cylindrical shaped filter it would be easier but I could not find one in the size i needed.

Going to a junkyard today to pick up a starter off the 5.3 LC9. As far as the interwebs tells me it's the smallest ls series starter and it's affordable too!

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  spence on Tue Jun 14, 2016 11:17 am

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That's the one I used. I had a hard time trying to find one that fit too
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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Tue Jun 14, 2016 11:24 am

Hey thanks for the tip. If i step down to a 3" tube it certainly opens the door. I'm going to see if i can manage to stick with the 4" for now but i may end up going that route..

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  superman22x on Wed Jun 15, 2016 6:45 am

K&N has a pretty good tool where you can choose dimensions and it will show you filters that match. I imagine they have something that is similar to that in a larger inlet size.

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Fri Jun 17, 2016 10:42 pm

So my pilot bearing walked out. Turns out its not big enough. Can pull out by hand. Seems like a recurring problem... might want to add a thousandth or two to the diameter in the drawing...

Whats my best move here?


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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  sharkey on Fri Jun 17, 2016 11:33 pm

you can try some loctite 609 sleeve lock. its designed to lock bearings and bushings in place, even if they arent a press fit.

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  matt889 on Sun Jun 19, 2016 9:08 am

ur bearing walked out of the adaptor ? did u mesure to see if there was a defect in the ID size of the adaptor

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Sun Jun 19, 2016 12:19 pm

matt889 wrote:ur bearing walked out of the adaptor ? did u mesure to see if there was a defect in the ID size of the adaptor

No no my apologies for not being clear. The adapter walked out its place in the end of the crank. Couldn't find any of the various retaining compounds from loctite locally. But i did find a permatex sleeve retainer product that im trying.

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  Techno Duck on Sun Jun 19, 2016 1:32 pm

Had the same issue on my car! It took a while to figure out also.

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  phlip on Sun Jun 19, 2016 2:27 pm

When I installed my adapter I didnt think it fit tight enough. I barely had to tap it with a hammer to get it in. I removed it and took a very sharp center punch and staked it like 10 or 12 times. At 3,6,9 and 12 oclock around the outter surface that mates with the crank.
This distorted the outter surface of the adapter enough to make for a much tighter interference fit.
Ive had it apart a couple times since chasing a vibration with like 500 then 1000 miles on it.
Checked the adapter both times, still tight.
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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Wed Jun 22, 2016 11:04 am

Thanks! i had seen both of your methods previously and thought I would give the chemical approach a try...

Jon your car was hydroboost right? Don't suppose you remember at all the length of your high pressure power steering lines?

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Thu Jul 07, 2016 8:01 am

haven't been posting since I don't have internet yet at my place...
Doing all the little things I need to do before dropping the engine in for hopefully the last time. Made the oil lines that run from the block to the thermostat, made the powersteering lines, cleaned up the rack since it was filthy, etc, etc etc.

I got a starter motor from an LC9 (aluminum 5.3 truck motor) because it was what the internet said was the smallest and boy is it a heck of a lot smaller than the other one i had. I'll have to post a picture but now it's hard to see how I ever had clearance issues on the header. 

The engine originally had a dipstick provision built into the TBSS pan. There's a freezeplug in the block that needs to be removed and it's easiest to punch it out from the inside but I really don't want to take my pan and gasket back off (rtv'd on both sides). I try to get it out with minimal debris going into the engine and then do an oil flush. 

After that I might be ready to put the engine back in.... everytime I look at it I see something else that needs attention though.

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Fri Jul 08, 2016 8:06 am

Well got the drain freeze plug out for the dipstick. Drilled a hole, put in a machine screw, and then pried it out with a hammer. Worked surprisingly well...

[You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]20160707_175314 by Frosted Flake, on Flickr

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Mon Jul 11, 2016 9:49 am

Okay just trying to understand all the PCV and Vacuum connections before I put the engine in to try to ensure I don't have to yank it back out... again... 

I have 3 PCV connections. the long barb on the passenger side middle/front valve cover. The barb coming straight up the back of the driver side barb cover. and the barb off the passenger side of the LS2 intake manifold. I do not have the crankcase barb coming out near the valley cover under the intake manifold in the front of the engine. 

Since i don't have the crankcase barb coming out from the valley cover, I believe I should connect the driver side rear barb to the intake manifold. Which leaves me needing fresh air to the passenger side valve cover barb. I guess I'll just tap into my air intake system whenever that gets completed?

What all needs vacuum? Just the HVAC system? I'm ditching the evap stuff...

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  Rich L. on Tue Jul 12, 2016 7:54 pm

Here's the stock LS1 setup. This is what I used w/o a valley cover breather port.

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Thu Jul 14, 2016 10:20 am

Thanks that's a good help!

Can i install the engine with headers on/off? Or is only 1 way going to work?

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  superman22x on Thu Jul 14, 2016 10:24 am

Which headers? I have the TPC budget headers, and with the hydroboost out, they were very easy to install with the engine in (steering shaft out).

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Re: 1986 LS2 Conversion

Post  FrostedFlakeJake on Thu Jul 14, 2016 10:25 am

kooks long tubes. hydroboost in. You got the hydroboost in after the block was in? I didn't have room on the heads to do that.

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