Clutch hoses and fittings

I'm using a Corvette C5 clutch slave cylinder/throwout bearing assembly, and for the life of my I can't figure out what hoses/fittings to use to connect it to my 944 master cylinder. The slave already has a short braided input line that has a proprietary GM fitting on the end of it (prevents air from getting in to the system when unplugged), and the return line has a weird machined hex-head fitting with a hole on the end.

What gives?

The short Hex-head is the bleeder and someone here posted a link to a remote bleeder line from a Corvette Forum. I also thought someone posted the info for the parts needed for 944 to C5 mainline.
I'm almost where you are and will be doing the same shortly.

OK, just answered one of my own questions - the hex head one is not a return line, but the bleeder screw. Duh.

Still running into a bit of a wall with the "hydraulic clutch actuator hose". I've talked to my local dealer, NAPA/Autozone, Tick Performance (who make their own hoses), Jegs/Summit, etc. Either they don't have them or won't sell them separately from the entire MC unit. I checked this site and PH and couldn't find any parts lists for adapting the hose to the Porsche 944 MC.

If anyone has the info, can they please try and dig it up and post here?

I've seen cheaper. Tick sells them for $49, and Monster Clutches even cheaper. This part is covered - it's the OTHER that's got me twisted in a knot.

Still the search goes on. Seems finding the upper half of the braided hydraulic hose is the real PITA. Rebuilt MC's are available on eBay for between US$50 - 120, but none of them come with the hose. After talking with dealers and a few other shops, they all just assume that since it's a braided line, you wouldn't ever need to replace it. I'm trying to source a complete C5 MC unit that includes the upper hose from some local wreckers, best price I've received is CA$225.

I'm thinking of taking out the slave cylinder and bring it over to my local hydraulic shop and see if they can fab a custom fitting and hose, and do away with the proprietary GM quick disconnect altogether. If this is something they can do at a reasonable price, I'll provide the info here and offer it as part of our "kit".

Are you talking a 1-off line from the C5 fitting (bright Orange cover thingy) to the stock 944 Clutch MC?

If so, put me down for one.

AS a NOTE******** The Vette Guys are fixing a restrictor in the factory line that causes the clutch pedal return to be too slow at times.
Does the stock 944 clutch Master match well with the C5 TO bearing?
If there is a problem, how about modding the C5 MC and line to the 944 Firewall?

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Mcleod has a 17" an-4 fitting to Male C5 adapter= 91 Bones

2nd option, the stock solid tube could be cut off and pressed into the teflon with a screw clamp fitting after removing the C5 female end with a Dremel tool.

3rd option (maybe)....I tried getting my pliers down by the C5 TO bearing tube where it bends to see if it unscrews.....Did'nt want to damage it

4th option...there is a Russell brand fitting that goes directly into the TO bearing and has a an-4 male fitting so you can run your own line (of which I have sourced a 36" with fittings)
But this option requires me to remove the damn engine again. I'd rather fork over the Benjamin to Mcleod if option #2 is not viable.....

Option #5 ............I need a beer....to think of another option

PORH

What is the 944 MC flare fitting size?
The one on the other end is the same.

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Clutch Hydraulics

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xschop wrote:Are you talking a 1-off line from the C5 fitting (bright Orange cover thingy) to the stock 944 Clutch MC?

If so, put me down for one.

I was thinking of a custom one from the 944 MC right down to the slave cylinder. The quick disconnect is a proprietary GM fitting, so I doubt I can find it elsewhere.

xschop wrote:Mcleod has a 17" an-4 fitting to Male C5 adapter= 91 Bones

Damn - I always forget to check Mcleod. They even have the fitting at the TO bearing with an-4 end - $43.

xschop wrote:2nd option, the stock solid tube could be cut off and pressed into the teflon with a screw clamp fitting after removing the C5 female end with a Dremel tool.

I don't know if I want to mess with hydraulic lines like that.

xschop wrote:3rd option (maybe)....I tried getting my pliers down by the C5 TO bearing tube where it bends to see if it unscrews.....Did'nt want to damage it

The fitting is held in by a roll pin - it doesn't screw in.

xschop wrote:4th option...there is a Russell brand fitting that goes directly into the TO bearing and has a an-4 male fitting so you can run your own line (of which I have sourced a 36" with fittings)
But this option requires me to remove the damn engine again. I'd rather fork over the Benjamin to Mcleod if option #2 is not viable.....

Agreed.

""""""The fitting is held in by a roll pin - it doesn't screw in.""""""
I was trying to explain the part of that tubing bens near the end that is accessable outside the housing. I was able to move it some, but wasn't sure it was screwed in.
I sourced 36" Braided steel line for 22 Bones, I just don't want to Remove the engine again

The 944 clutch master cylinder thread is M12 x 1.0 and the fitting I have been using since forever is a -3 AN flare to 12mm x 1.0 Metric thread adapter from Russell... PN# 670480 (blue) and 670481 (endura).
The C5 T/O slave cyl. bleeder thread is M10 x 1.5 ...Russell/Edelbrock PN# 640281 (-3AN pkg. 2) Mcleod PN# 139026 (-4AN). Im guessing russell puts two in the box because you insert one into the slave and the other into the master and then just connect the two with a 3 AN hose.

Speaking just about the input pressure port to master cylinder, I guess whats needed is the adapter fitting for the slave (3 or 4 AN PN's above) and a SS braided line from that fitting up to the master where a 90 degree fitting is used (3 or 4 AN hose to 3 AN fitting above).

From the LT conversion, I have the M12x1.0 to 3 AN adapter fitting, a 90 degree 3 AN to 3 AN SS hose that is 21 inches long and ends with a 45 degree 3 AN fitting. I dont think I can convert or use any of this line with this BH.

Im guessing im going to order (from slave to master in order) the russell 67048x fitting for the TO slave, 2 of the 3 AN hose ends (one for the slave side and one for the master side), 20 inches of 3 AN summit SS hose, and a 45 degree adapter fitting for the 3 AN hose end to the M10x1.0/6 AN fitting at the master.

Suggestions?

I'm having problems with the adapter supplied from you know who. Seems the angle of the reverse flare on the fitting is the wrong angle or some thing. Plus It seems also that it does not come in contact with the flare seat. I think the supplier expects it to seal on the outside of the threads which is wrong. I tightened it well and when I removed it you could see how it contacted at the bottom of the threads but not on the seat on the mc flare. I think I'm gonna use a swagelok to (an ) adapter on the original line from the mc. Anyone have a better idea or know what the correct fitting should be. Mine was blue.

Install a copper seal washer between the fitting and throw out bearing. the fitting will not set against the flair in the bearing! That is one thing I really don't like about that setup.

My leak is at the mc. The adapter leaks. It looks like a Russell fitting. Is that line -3 or -4 an?

If you got it from RH, it could be either. Whatever they could get at the time....
Is it leaking on the hose side or the mc side. If it is the mc side try the copper washer there also.
just don't over tighten it....

I'm gonna give it a last ditch effort with the washer.The hard part will be finding one that size.

It should be -3 AN hose to a 90 degree AN fitting to the adapter fitting for the master.

Even though the 944 master cylinder has a male flare in it (I dont know what angle it is...may not be -AN angle), I still used a bit of teflon tape on the adapter fitting. Never leaked. I would assume, since yours leaks, that either the flare angle of the master cylinder is not the same as the adapter fitting, the threads of the MC/fitting are stripped/corroded, the flare on either are cracked/broken/or damaged, or its simply not tight enough.

Try the copper crush washer idea or a bit of teflon and see if that helps.

I didn't do the teflon tape as I thought the fluid would eat it. But its definitly leaking from that adapter and not the hose connection. Definite seat angle issue. Copper gasket and teflon coming up. But for now I'm down with a big draw from the pcm. Battery goes dead.

Check the electric fan as well. My battery kept draining because the fan was sucking juice after shutdown. I had the fan wired to the sensor and small 40A relay and the relay had a bridged contact.