HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 1:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Why Sanderson header, why?

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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  kelleysj on Thu Apr 08, 2010 3:52 am

Are there any other options for headers are is this about all you can do without complete fabrication?
thanks
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What about thePatriot Exhaust #737-H8052-1 265-400 Small Block Tight Tuck Headers 1-5/8'' Primary Tubes 2-1/2'' Collectors Round Port Shape Metallic Ceramic Coated

Post  kelleysj on Tue Apr 13, 2010 11:58 pm

Has anyone tried this exhaust its an option from the manual. If so is there a reason why no speaks of this header?Or is it just junk? Im trying to find a good set that will work but im still kind of new here and not completely familiar with the LT1.
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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  gt1scca on Wed Apr 14, 2010 12:28 am

No one has used them as far as I know, but I have a set.

I have mocked them up with the crossmember bolted in place on my LT1, and exhaust routing will be about the same as with the Sanderson. Patriot 737-H8052-1 are decent quality, ceramic coated, and the flanges are well made / welded. Only a slight J-bend is required to clearance the steering shaft.

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Hedman Hedders 68506

Post  ghostcloak on Wed May 05, 2010 7:31 pm

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These headers should work.

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Part No. 68500 is the 3-BOLT 1-5/8" Uncoated 2-1/2" Chevy SB 283-400 $309.52 , which is on Hedman's website below:
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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  Dawgz83948 on Wed May 05, 2010 7:49 pm

Probably will not work because of the angle will hit the steering shaft.
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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  Admin on Thu May 06, 2010 5:09 am

Won't work!
Driver's side would have to have a tube welded in the collector right down the center for the steering shaft to fit through Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing Laughing

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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  bluehellfire666 on Tue Jun 01, 2010 7:40 am

btw, i have the patriot h8052's on my car...they aren't the ceramic coated ones (too cheap to get those). I didn't work the drivers side frame rail before putting my engine in (read "i didn't beat the frame rail with a sledgehammer for an hour to flatten it out) so i had to cut the collector flange off of the drivers side header and weld a pipe directly to it to run down to my y-pipe...it's an extremely tight fit as it is too...i'm thinking that i might pull those headers out...cut the collector off and extend the primaries further down to try to give myself a little more room to play.
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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  Phatjimmy on Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:52 am

I think i just cracked my second set of Sandersons on my LT1. Will the patriot h8052's fit what I have or will I need to modify my existing exhaust?

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About to buy headers

Post  Warwood on Tue Oct 26, 2010 8:45 am

Ok so the Sanderson's are POS. Dawgz says the the Pacesetter 92-96 C-4 headers fit but he had to cut an inch off the collector. (what where how?) Then there are the Patriot headers, don't know much about them. Someone posted about some Headmen headers in another thread but that looked like it took a lot of welding.

Has anyone tried to reinforce a set of the Sanderson's so they don't crack?

Anyways I am looking for a quaity header because once they are in I don't want to have to pull them out again.
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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  Phatjimmy on Tue Oct 26, 2010 9:18 am

I've had a set of the sandersons bought them from century i think about 2-3 years ago - maybe longer. I thought I had a problem with them but it was the Al gasket at the exhaust end (collector?). I switched to copper and have been very happy. With the Al gasket I kept having to constantly tighten them up. The copper seems to have solved that problem. I have a pretty close to stock LT1 from a 95 corvette. It could be different if you have more horse power. I was also leary of using the High Temp black goo at the engine side ( as recommended by sanderson) instead of a gasket but this has worked out well also. The car has been very reliable since my son stopped driving it. He has his own truck now.

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About to buy headers

Post  Warwood on Tue Oct 26, 2010 9:42 am

Phatjimmy thanks for the reply.

I've been looking around. Stahl makes a header for the C4 LT1 that is just cool as heck to bad it won't fit in a 944 and it cost over $1300. I think if I want long tube headers I'll have to weld them myself.... that sucks because I'm not that great a welder.

Hooker makes a block hugger that is spendy and may not fit.
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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  tooms351 on Thu Oct 28, 2010 5:35 pm

Ya know, I'm going through the same problem. This is the third set of headers, second car and same sbc with about 400hp. I recently saw some pics of the car at speed on the track at Sebring and was suprised at the amount of squat there is. I'm starting to think, that amount of squat multiplied by the length of the exhaust system is breaking it at it's weakest point, right on top of the collectors. I will try the longest flex joint that will fit and modify the hangers for some more up and down play. Hope it works as I'm tired of the cost and smell!
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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  subterfuge on Thu Oct 28, 2010 5:52 pm

I am probably going to start a thread about exhaust design strategy, but one of my questions can be answered in this discussion. I was looking at flex joints on Summit the other day. Where would I want that located in the exhaust routing? Would it be best to be more near the front, say just aft of the bellhousing? Is it better to have a longer flex section?
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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  Seattle948 on Wed Nov 10, 2010 11:25 am

My Sanderson CC2/CC90 combo cracked at the collector and at the flange after about 2k miles. Getting some 14ga 1.625" mid lengths made up right now at Stan's Headers in Auburn , WA. Will post photos once done.

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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  Admin on Wed Nov 10, 2010 12:56 pm

Did you have flex joints in your exhaust?

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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  Seattle948 on Fri Nov 12, 2010 7:20 am

Yes, ball and socket type with valve springs to keep it under tension, a.k.a. "Buick ball". To be fair to Sanderson, a hanger at the mid span of the exhaust failed, which caused all the weight of the system to be borne in just 2 places: the rear hanger at the muffler, and the headers themselves. Not sure if the hanger broke when I recently removed the exhaust, or if it fatigued and broke a while ago. Good excuse to upgrade as it is hard to get a good weld inside the collector with the coating in there, and it seems the short 1.5" primaries are limiting factors on a car with upgraded heads/cam.

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DIY HEADER SOURCE

Post  Firehawkslp on Fri Aug 02, 2013 10:24 pm

RobotMachines wrote:
ghostcloak wrote:
('Ghost Cloak' should be coming here soon).  

Yes! I am here finally!  Thanks for the invite Smile 

Sandersons are horrible.  I had original Sandersons (even had the Sanderson plate on there!) and both sides cracked.  They were rewelded by Cody, but that was only a temporary fix despite him claiming otherwise.

I don't have friends who can weld or know anyone with a shop that can do exhaust work and cut me a break.  Custom headers are going to be upwards of $2k total (from scratch).  I don't want to spend that much.  I've got a huge hole in the driver's side collector to the point where the header is, more or less, beyond repair and just needs to be replaced.  I've been to several exhaust shops in the Raleigh area and no one wants to work on this kind of project, hence the high estimates.
Glad to see you made it!  alien

Yeah, forget the $2K customs; buy a really small Mig welder and use flux core wire; you'll easily be able to weld it! (definitely use flux core and outside).   Having a Mig is fun.  Or, you can make it very easy for a shop to weld them up if you take the header out and bring it to them.

 Try [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]  All about header building quality components. Back in the 70's when I was so young still under warrenty my uncle and I built his High School DREAM CAR.  A 55 shoe box chevy with a 348 tri-power 4spd believe it or not none made headers for that comb. So built with pieces parts from "headers by ed" they weren't pretty but they got the exhaust out the back or at lest in front of the rear tires and we didn't die. Come to find out car was originally a six cylinder the brakes weren't really up to hauling this thing down from the far side of hundered more than once a day, ask me how I know.pale Exclamation


Last edited by Firehawkslp on Fri Aug 02, 2013 10:34 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : correct spelling and grammer break up run on sentences)
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Curious question

Post  Gutterboy on Fri Aug 02, 2013 11:21 pm

Although it's great to have that link for those who wish to build their own headers, isn't this thread largely dead because eric at tpc makes headers that are exactly what you need and they are much stronger than alternative off the shelf headers? ?


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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  spence on Sat Aug 03, 2013 5:24 am

This thread has to do with LT1 headers not LS1 (the only ones he makes are LS1).
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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  kelleysj on Sat Aug 03, 2013 5:57 am

I used Patriot tight tuck headers. I cut off the collector and extended the down tube to fit. They work great though as long as my car is not over heating.
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Re: Why Sanderson header, why?

Post  RobotMachines on Sat Aug 03, 2013 7:48 pm

Admin wrote:Did you have flex joints in your exhaust?

Don't know if you were asking me but I do have a flex joint on each side. That collector area is the big problem. I will, soon, take them out and try to reinforce them at the collector.
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