944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Sparkydog's Abnormal Build - 944 With L67 + Ford Stuff & CARB Legal

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Hotrodz of Dallas
kevin924kevin
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Post  sparkydog Sun Aug 02, 2015 1:21 pm

It was a rough week at work so I gave myself a little fun time this morning. I decided to do some more prep work to the Mustang structural metal while it was easier to work on. So... the axle went back on again, then some more conduit bracing.
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Then the axle came off again. Then I marked up where I wanted to improve upon the Ford factory spot welding.
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And then it was stitch-o-rama for an hour or so until I ran low on shield gas.
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Post  v2rocket Thu Aug 13, 2015 8:29 am

did you consider putting the whole Cougar/Tbird rear end into the 944?
i looked at that for a while and looked like it "might just" fit.

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Post  sparkydog Sat Aug 15, 2015 10:01 am

I bought the entire Cougar IRS subframe from the junk yard but not the frame/floor. When I got the whole thing home I saw that the track width is considerably wider and the whole thing was very heavy. The advantage I see with the straight axle & swing arm system is that there are plenty of aftermarket kits/components that I can add or, down the road, there is the Mustang IRS system that essentially bolts up into the same mounting points I am about to add.
sparkydog
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Post  sparkydog Sat Sep 12, 2015 8:21 pm

I have trimmed progressively more off of the Mustang frame section until now I am at the point where I'm ready to layout where to cut into the 944 arse.
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I designed and built an exoskeleton that bolts up into the 944 so as to help stabilize things once I cut into the rear frame horns.
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And the actual thing...
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And also a reference jig so I can know where the CL of the rear axle is relative to the Mustang frame section.
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So now I am finally ready to cut some big holes in my little friend the 944.
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Post  sparkydog Tue Oct 06, 2015 12:33 pm

Over the weekend I did enough trimming/shaving to the 944 that the section of Mustang rear subframe is now at the correct height and fore/aft location. The first picture shows that I have the Mustang frame clamped to the bottom of the 944's structural metal at the bulkhead area.
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I will now need to figure out how to tie these two worlds together so that the forward thrust from the rear wheels is transferred into the 944 unibody in this area.

The second major area where the Mustang and 944 metal must tie together strongly is where I c-notched the 944 frame horns to clearance for the Mustang's upper coil spring bracket.
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It was fun cutting through the upper shock mount bushing...
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sparkydog
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Post  sparkydog Sun Nov 29, 2015 7:22 pm

The Mustang triangulated 4-link and rear axle are now grafted into the 944 and the tangle of conduit, jigs and alignment doodads has been removed.
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And it's back on the ground after 4.5 months.
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Starting to fill in the numerous holes - beginning with the big ones.
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sparkydog
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Post  sparkydog Sat Feb 06, 2016 2:25 pm

It's just about 6 months to the day since I decided to graft the Mustang rear suspension attachment metal into the 944. It is officially grafted and in primer now.
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Post  sparkydog Mon Jul 25, 2016 11:44 am

I bought a donor Camaro and have harvested the motor/5spd, fuel system, fuel tank, pedal assembly, etc off of it. Photos of 1st stuff into the 944 below. I also bought a set of SVT wheels and tires and have them mounted.
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Post  sparkydog Thu Sep 22, 2016 10:15 am

I'm about to finalize the location of my motor and start fabricating motor mounts for it. One of the things I looked at for motor location was to provide as much room as possible for the brake booster/master. I now have the option of either fully manual, hydro-boost or conventional vacuum boost. (There is just barely enough room for the larger vacuum boost diaphragm housing.)

So if I have the room to do any of the three types of brake system - which one should I go with?
sparkydog
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Post  Hotrodz of Dallas Thu Sep 22, 2016 10:51 am

This is a pretty cool build. I don't know why I never saw it before now. I would definitely source the mustang independent rear diff setup. Unless of course you are mainly building the car for straight-line stuff. The independent rear diff will get you back close to the original 944 drivability in twisty roads.

As far as brakes go, if you have the room, I would use the vacuum booster. It is much simpler than hydroboost to hook up. Otherwise, use hydroboost. Manual brakes just lack in braking overall.

What engine and trans is that? I can't see it well enough in the pics to tell. You're doing what I am planning on my car by putting the trans on the back of the engine.
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Post  sparkydog Thu Sep 22, 2016 3:10 pm

I have both an L36 and an L67 that I've been stuffing into it. I'm going to get it running and street legal with the L36. I harvested the L36 with a T5 out of a 96 Camaro.
sparkydog
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Post  sparkydog Tue Oct 04, 2016 6:15 pm

Motor mounts are fabbed, primered and tacked in on the K member.
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On the other end of the car - I have sourced a gas tank that I like. It's square, wide, tall and short in the correct directions and fits into the cavity of the 944 like it was made for it. On the other hand - the filler neck will require mods and it is not (yet) compatible for a late model fuel injection pump and modern vent requirements.
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Post  sparkydog Sun Oct 09, 2016 9:33 am

Starting on the transmission cross member and mount.

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Post  sparkydog Tue Dec 06, 2016 9:58 am

Can somebody get me the approximate distance from the floor pan up to the center of the clutch pedal? Also state if you measured with or without carpet. I would prefer the distance without carpet but will take whatever you can give me! Thanks!
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Post  racertomtom Tue Dec 06, 2016 8:46 pm

Not exactly sure what your asking. This is straight up from a high ridge of the bare floor.

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Post  sparkydog Wed Dec 07, 2016 6:48 am

That's what I wanted! Thanks racertomtom!
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Post  sparkydog Mon Dec 26, 2016 7:17 pm

The transmission mount brackets are primed, seam sealed and painted.

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And the Camaro clutch/brake pedal assembly with corresponding mods to firewall are finished for mockup purposes.

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I will have the pedal assembly mounted in a week or so after I sandblast and paint it.
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Post  sparkydog Mon Jan 02, 2017 9:38 am

Pedal assembly painted and mounted up with the brake booster/MC.
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Next on the list are mods to the gas tank.
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Post  sparkydog Fri Jan 06, 2017 7:07 pm

Fuel pump module out of a '99 Astro.
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And some shots of my baffle that mimics the GM factory setup as best as I could interpret it inside my custom tank for the 944. I also modded the float arm so it would clear the baffle wall and reach all the way to the roof of the tank so as to indicate truly full.

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Post  sparkydog Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:30 am

My hydraulic clutch rig looks like the stuff in the upper picture. This is the GM hydraulic clutch system from the 96 Camaro (and many other models/years). My slave cylinder is the puck style with the short pipe and the female connector. The 944 trans tunnel hugs the transmission real tight and therefore the access to the coupling and the routing of the flex hose from the master cylinder is wrong. You can see in the lower pic where I have slit open my tunnel for a temp fix.

Does anyone know if I can replace the short little pipe (see my arrow) with a flex line between the puck and the female connector? This would move the whole thing down and away from the side of the transmission.
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Post  xschop Wed Jan 11, 2017 10:11 am

There is a -AN adapter that gets rid of the factory tube. Its posted on a pic here somewhere...

Nice to see a different build and some more American technology incorporated. Great job.
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Post  Hotrodz of Dallas Wed Jan 11, 2017 10:20 am

Check with Kent at TPC. He converts them to a braided steel line on all of his kits.
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Post  sharkey Wed Jan 11, 2017 1:28 pm

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knock the roll pin out, swap the quick connect to that and put the roll pin back in. those fittings will also fit the master cylinder, then you can just use a piece of teflon core braided bake hose.

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Post  sparkydog Wed Jan 11, 2017 3:07 pm

^^^ If I understand this correctly then I'd lose the quick connect ability. I'm trying to keep the quick connect fittings but just replace the pipe section with a longer braided hose. I'm familiar with the roll pin side of the connection and know about the adapters. But what I don't know is how the other end of the pipe connects to the back of the female quick coupler. (I haven't had my BH and clutch off yet. I'm sure it will be obvious once I tear into it.)
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Post  sharkey Wed Jan 11, 2017 3:42 pm

i dont know of anything that would allow you to keep that style quick connect. the ctsv slave cylinder has a steel line off the slave and it turns 90* outside the bellhouing and has a quick connect on the end, but its not the same as the quick connect you have. 05+ mustang (another good slave option) is the same sort of idea, but again, different connector. you could do a steel braided hose with a quick connect on it, maybe something from jiffy-tite would work.

myself id just use the fittings i posted above, and when you need to unhook it for service, just unhook it at the master. yes it means bleeding the clutch every time, but its not that big a deal.

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