944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Hot relays and high voltage.

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Post  jpkinerk Thu Oct 16, 2014 8:46 pm

Finally got the car up and running, dyno tuned, etc. and I noticed when checking my DME relay that several relays felt really warm. I'm guessing this isn't normal. Anyone else have this happen?

Also, I'm reading between 15 and 15.5 volts. I'm thinking voltage regulator on the alternator, but thought I'd consult the thinktank here before I start swappin' parts.

Thanks,

JP
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Post  money pit 951 Fri Oct 17, 2014 8:20 am

15-15.5V is high. What's the voltage at idle and then at higher RPM? Sounds like your alt is up to something
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Post  jpkinerk Fri Oct 17, 2014 10:21 am

It seems to start off closer to 14.5, and then after a drive sit around 15-15.2-ish. I'd day driving around under throttle 15.5 is the max.

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Post  racertomtom Fri Oct 17, 2014 10:10 pm

Try a different volt meter or try that volt meter on a different car and confirm it is accurate. Measure voltage at the battery with the engine off, then with the engine running to confirm it is charging and at how many volts. 15v is too high, it will boil the electrolyte out of it. A bad battery will sometimes overcharge, a parts store will probably load test it for free.

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Post  jpkinerk Sat Oct 18, 2014 11:47 am

Had the alternator and battery tested, both were fine. Still putting out 15.5-16 now. I'm thinking it's the voltage regulator in the alternator. Can an alternator still test OK with a bad voltage regulator? Planning on just replacing the whole alternator and going from there. I also checked all my grounds.
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Post  racertomtom Sat Oct 18, 2014 1:57 pm

jpkinerk wrote:I noticed when checking my DME relay that several relays felt really warm.

Sometimes continually energized relays get hot enough you can't leave your hand on them.

jpkinerk wrote:Can an alternator still test OK with a bad voltage regulator?

Assuming you’re running a GM alternator with internal regulator and they measured the output, No.
What are you using to measure the voltage in the car?

Edit: I’m changing my answer from no to I don’t think so. Cars are like women, when you think you understand them, they make you look like an idiot!

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Post  jpkinerk Sat Oct 18, 2014 8:05 pm

racertomtom wrote:
jpkinerk wrote:I noticed when checking my DME relay that several relays felt really warm.

Sometimes continually energized relays get hot enough you can't leave your hand on them.

jpkinerk wrote:Can an alternator still test OK with a bad voltage regulator?

Assuming you’re running a GM alternator with internal regulator and they measured the output, No.
What are you using to measure the voltage in the car?

Edit: I’m changing my answer from no to I don’t think so. Cars are like women, when you think you understand them, they make you look like an idiot!


So are you saying that continually charged relays is a mistake in my wiring or normal? Sorry, I'm not very knowledgable at wiring other than basic cut and splice stuff.

Update: The alternator was first tested by hooking up to the battery at the auto store. Later, I took just the alternator to the store and they put it on another machine to test. On that test, it failed. It's looking like a bad voltage regulator, so I just got a new alternator. Will put it on in the morning and see what happens.

Thanks for the replies. One of the best forums I've been on in terms of quality advice and dicussion and none of the other nonesense.
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Post  racertomtom Sat Oct 18, 2014 10:36 pm

jpkinerk wrote:So are you saying that continually charged relays is a mistake in my wiring or normal?  

If a given relay is in a circuit that is supposed to be powered all the time, it's normal for it to get warm.
Sounds like you found the problem!

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Post  jpkinerk Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:57 pm

Well one problem begets another. Went for a test drive with the voltage/alternator problem fixed, everything seemed hunky-dory. Went to start it the next day, and it kept bogging down and wanting to idle down to 400 rpm and then die. Turns out, since I had it tuned when the voltage was high, the sensors are all off now and the tune is junk. Back to the dyno I go...

Hoping it won't be as expensive since I already paid for the base tune upload and then the credits to do the actual dyno tune. That has me $700 all-in on tuning. Has anyone had experience with going back for another tune after your first? I'm hoping I'll only be charged for time on the dyno which is $80/hr.

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