HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.
Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin
For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.
When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).
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LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
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944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions :: 944 Conversions :: 5.3 and 4.8 LS based Conversions
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LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
Hello all, I'm not exactly new to the forums but i am new to posting. A little back story I have a 1988 944 N/A that had 165k miles before the little engine that could stopped. have tried a couple different carb small blocks and i didn't care for it. Decided to go fuel injection with a 2001 stock 5.3 LM7 and save my self in the long run. I have pieced my install kit together myself and have saved a ton i am 3k into my whole project with buying the car. I am down to buying the last few pieces to get the car running again. I know this is a very old topic and it has probably been beaten into the ground but.....has anyone tried using a stock 5.3 lm7 pan and dropping the cross member the prescribed 1/2inch and put spacers on the uprights??? Maybe 3/4inch to 1 full inch i don't have any hood clearance issues as i am going to cut a hole and put a cowl induction on. Is this a logical thought? i am doing a full budget build and i don't see spending 500 extra dollars to make this work by buying an oil pan, an extra pick up, and relocation kit.. If anyone has done this or seen this done please let me know.....otherwise ill be doing it and ill post pics
jrod63chevy- Posts : 18
Join date : 2012-07-19
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
I have not tried it, however I bought a Moroso Pan and cut it out myself. I think it was 250 bucks when I purchased it.
Works like a dream.
Works like a dream.
99sierra4x4- Posts : 121
Join date : 2012-02-01
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
Yeah 250$ plus 120$ for pickup, and between 90$-160$ for relocation kit comes out to about 500$ just want to not have to do that
jrod63chevy- Posts : 18
Join date : 2012-07-19
LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
Ok update. engine is in the car. Stock oil pan being used. Due to this and the intake from lm7 hood will have to be modified. I don't see any way around this. ( other than spending large amounts of money) headers from Eric are on the way. and uprights will begin this week. I need the plates that mount to the engine. or at least drawings of them. I will call Eric in the morning and see if he can help with this. Frankenbits is still moving forward, albeit slow, still moving. 27 days and counting till race day.
jrod63chevy- Posts : 18
Join date : 2012-07-19
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
This is one of those times it's better to bite the bullet and do it right the first time. Doing it a second time just makes anything you already spent just a waste of money. Not putting you down, just offering you advice from years of learning the hard way.
wingdog- Posts : 15
Join date : 2013-07-21
Location : Henderson, Nv.
RE: Lm7 conversion oil pan problems
I understand and I thank you for your input. It's also looking between 300 and 400$ to redo my wiring harness and pcm I spoke with tpc today and was told I can get the plates for 150$ still have to build my uprights. If I purchase the other parts I will be another 500 into the pan and components for such. 500$ pan and parts, 250$ uprights, 425$ exhaust manifolds. Still need to redo my fuel lines and figure out if the stock pump will be able to power the engine. How much did everyone spend on their pan and componenets am I in the same ball park? Still on a strict budget but if I do it my way I will need to modify the hood such I'm fine with. But what else will be effected in result there of?
jrod63chevy- Posts : 18
Join date : 2012-07-19
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
I can appreciate trying to build a car like this on a budget. Sometimes, though, it comes down to spending a bit more money up front to really improve the finished build. Building a project like this always requires a whole bunch of "hidden" details that will really drive up the cost of getting to a properly running car. But doing all those details right (or right enough) usually means the difference between putting something on the road that is frustrating to own and drive (if you skimp on important things) and being able to really enjoy a quality finished car that mostly just works, and you can be proud of.
Many times it is ultimately less expensive to follow one of the lower cost, successful swap recipes that others have worked out. Buy the same parts, take the same steps, and be able to learn from the time and money others have already spend making all of this work. While some of the parts may seem expensive, if almost every successful budget build uses those parts, there is usually a reason. These successful recipes (standard builds, with standard parts) are the shortcut to low budget success.
The other path is to strike out on your own and spend time and money on parts and materials to try out each new idea. Most of these experiments will need two or three revisions before you hit on just the right solution. But each try will be more time and money. And after working through all the different areas of the swap, trying new ideas and revising them, you might still end up with a finished product that you're not completely satisfied with. Even after all of the time and money spent on custom solutions, the finished car may still not be as good as a classic, by the book, build. And if you start to run into long-term problems, instead of being able to use a well documented fix, you may again be back to trial and error.
Unless you have quite a bit of experience with projects like this, doing it by the book should get you the car you expect, with a reasonable level of quality, with what is most likely the least amount of investment in both time and money.
Also since you're starting with the LM7, the front accessories, intake and coil packs will all be mounted differently and sit higher than a traditional F-body LS set-up. I'm sure you already know that. But I'd recommend finding a spare hood to modify while storing your original. That way if you decide to change over to the the low profile F-body parts later, you will still have your original hood for the car. Just a thought.
Many times it is ultimately less expensive to follow one of the lower cost, successful swap recipes that others have worked out. Buy the same parts, take the same steps, and be able to learn from the time and money others have already spend making all of this work. While some of the parts may seem expensive, if almost every successful budget build uses those parts, there is usually a reason. These successful recipes (standard builds, with standard parts) are the shortcut to low budget success.
The other path is to strike out on your own and spend time and money on parts and materials to try out each new idea. Most of these experiments will need two or three revisions before you hit on just the right solution. But each try will be more time and money. And after working through all the different areas of the swap, trying new ideas and revising them, you might still end up with a finished product that you're not completely satisfied with. Even after all of the time and money spent on custom solutions, the finished car may still not be as good as a classic, by the book, build. And if you start to run into long-term problems, instead of being able to use a well documented fix, you may again be back to trial and error.
Unless you have quite a bit of experience with projects like this, doing it by the book should get you the car you expect, with a reasonable level of quality, with what is most likely the least amount of investment in both time and money.
Also since you're starting with the LM7, the front accessories, intake and coil packs will all be mounted differently and sit higher than a traditional F-body LS set-up. I'm sure you already know that. But I'd recommend finding a spare hood to modify while storing your original. That way if you decide to change over to the the low profile F-body parts later, you will still have your original hood for the car. Just a thought.
erioshi- Posts : 227
Join date : 2014-06-16
Location : A land of ice and snow .. mostly
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
I can agree with that. And I appreciate you taking the time to explain that. It is all stuff I have thought about. But after thinking about it last night I am in agreement with everyone. Although I do not wish to I will be Looking into a new oil pan. I am disappointed that this is the case but you guys are right I don't want issues down the road. Literally lol. So I shall start looking for a new oil pan. And accessories for it. Question is there a way to modify our pick up tube to work or is it actually worth spending the extra 110$? I only ask because I am a welder fabricator. And maybe that is why I am so stubborn. Hopefully I can still come in under budget. Fingers crossed. Thanks again for all the input this far.
jrod63chevy- Posts : 18
Join date : 2012-07-19
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
I hope this doesn't discourage you too much, but there are always the little things just keep adding up on these kinds of projects. Here are a couple of examples.
I'm helping a friend with an LT1 from a Corvette + ZF 6 speed swap into an '86 RX-7 right now, and we are probably about $7500 into the project so far. That has covered all of the big ticket items along with a nice RX-7 (a bit under $3k), but there will still probably be another $1,000 to $2,000 to go before the car is up and properly running with all the significant bugs worked out.
I'm planning on dropping an L33 into my 928 as a swap. While the OE 928 engine is probably just fine, adding power becomes cost prohibitive very quickly. So for a basket case 928 (about $1,700 after trailering it home), an L33 (roughly $1,000), F-body accessories change-over (est. another $1,000 .. to be safe), swap kit (est. $600), bell housing (est. $300), ECU & harness work (est. another 1,000 .. includes tuning & dyno time), exhaust (est. $500), fuel system changes (est. $200 - finished, but already over budget. Spent about $350 including new tools), clutch parts (est $500), oil pan swap (est $500), etc. I expect the major components run about $5,500. On top of that I usually plan on another 25% to 50% in hidden and miscellaneous costs to show up along the way. With the initial budget being only $5,500, I'm thinking 50% is a more realistic bet than 25%.
So I'll probably be $7,500 into a beat 928 with poor paint, a shot interior, and a budget LS based swap. But from there, I'll only be paint, an interior and a bit more power away from a really nice car. Oh, except for the wiring harnesses and connectors which are the real weak spot of the 928. All of those will need to be fully replaced with new wire and modern weather pack (and possibly some metri-pack) connectors.
Unfortunately finding a nice, non-running 928 wasn't a realistic expectation in my part of the country. Either they are well cared for and garage kept, or they end up being left outside in all the snow and salt winter after winter. So generally either very nice cars or really, really bad ones.
For me, all of this is about enjoying the build. Obviously the economics don't make any sense.
I'm helping a friend with an LT1 from a Corvette + ZF 6 speed swap into an '86 RX-7 right now, and we are probably about $7500 into the project so far. That has covered all of the big ticket items along with a nice RX-7 (a bit under $3k), but there will still probably be another $1,000 to $2,000 to go before the car is up and properly running with all the significant bugs worked out.
I'm planning on dropping an L33 into my 928 as a swap. While the OE 928 engine is probably just fine, adding power becomes cost prohibitive very quickly. So for a basket case 928 (about $1,700 after trailering it home), an L33 (roughly $1,000), F-body accessories change-over (est. another $1,000 .. to be safe), swap kit (est. $600), bell housing (est. $300), ECU & harness work (est. another 1,000 .. includes tuning & dyno time), exhaust (est. $500), fuel system changes (est. $200 - finished, but already over budget. Spent about $350 including new tools), clutch parts (est $500), oil pan swap (est $500), etc. I expect the major components run about $5,500. On top of that I usually plan on another 25% to 50% in hidden and miscellaneous costs to show up along the way. With the initial budget being only $5,500, I'm thinking 50% is a more realistic bet than 25%.
So I'll probably be $7,500 into a beat 928 with poor paint, a shot interior, and a budget LS based swap. But from there, I'll only be paint, an interior and a bit more power away from a really nice car. Oh, except for the wiring harnesses and connectors which are the real weak spot of the 928. All of those will need to be fully replaced with new wire and modern weather pack (and possibly some metri-pack) connectors.
Unfortunately finding a nice, non-running 928 wasn't a realistic expectation in my part of the country. Either they are well cared for and garage kept, or they end up being left outside in all the snow and salt winter after winter. So generally either very nice cars or really, really bad ones.
For me, all of this is about enjoying the build. Obviously the economics don't make any sense.
erioshi- Posts : 227
Join date : 2014-06-16
Location : A land of ice and snow .. mostly
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
Being a welder/ fabricator should help you tremendously with your oil pan and engine uprights. I fabricated all of my own and it fits very nicely. the moroso oil pan cutting and welding instructions are all here , just search them and you'll see everything you need. The only thing I had to purchase was the bellhousing to torque tube adapter. I just don't have the correct machinery for that. It was money well spent from TPC. Beautiful billet piece! I tried adapting an f-body oil pump pickup for the pan and it just doesnt work so spend the money and save the grief.
wingdog- Posts : 15
Join date : 2013-07-21
Location : Henderson, Nv.
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
I just don't have the diagram or anything to make the uprights. I can make the uprights themselves but I don't know how the plates are to be made. If anyone has dimensions on those I'll pay to get them lol and I have the pics about cutting the oil pan just need to fork over the cash
jrod63chevy- Posts : 18
Join date : 2012-07-19
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
jrod63chevy wrote: So I shall start looking for a new oil pan. And accessories for it. Question is there a way to modify our pick up tube to work or is it actually worth spending the extra 110$? I only ask because I am a welder fabricator. And maybe that is why I am so stubborn.
That’s backwards. I always bought the pickup for the capacity/style pan I had my eye on and built the pan around it. Modify the stock pan however you need to so it clears the chassis and fits the pickup, just keep it bolted to a block so you don’t warp the flanges.
racertomtom- Posts : 144
Join date : 2014-07-04
Age : 64
Location : Southern Illinois
RE: oil pan modd
I don't have an AC tig welder and can't weld aluminum. Otherwise I would
jrod63chevy- Posts : 18
Join date : 2012-07-19
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
Ok quick update. ERIC thank you so much manifolds came in. Ordered oil pan, pick up tube, relocation kit from moroso, intake, and found some different alternator bracket designs to relocate. Talked to a guy on My-efi.com
Who is going to remap the ecu for $100. It's starting to come together I guess we shall see. Still need the plates for the engine mounts. Unless I can install everything else and then just make some 1/4" plates and then make the uprights from schematics off the internet???
Who is going to remap the ecu for $100. It's starting to come together I guess we shall see. Still need the plates for the engine mounts. Unless I can install everything else and then just make some 1/4" plates and then make the uprights from schematics off the internet???
jrod63chevy- Posts : 18
Join date : 2012-07-19
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
The Moroso oil pan is steel not aluminum. Clamped mine to a table and it didnt warp at all.
wingdog- Posts : 15
Join date : 2013-07-21
Location : Henderson, Nv.
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
Ahh yes I thought you were talking about the stock pan.
jrod63chevy- Posts : 18
Join date : 2012-07-19
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
Ok another quick update oil pan, intake, pickup tube, seat belts, and Obd2 connector will all be here between tomorrow and Monday. Will post pics and update once all of this has come in and start installing it
jrod63chevy- Posts : 18
Join date : 2012-07-19
Re: LM7 conversion (Oil pan problems)
Any updates?
erioshi- Posts : 227
Join date : 2014-06-16
Location : A land of ice and snow .. mostly
updates
Yes lots to update on. I'm at work right now but have all major components looking for fuel lines and still need to rewire harness. Engine is in but found broken header bolts so removing the engine to extract broken header bolts unless someone here knows an easier way lol will post pics when I get home. Thanks
jrod63chevy- Posts : 18
Join date : 2012-07-19
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944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions :: 944 Conversions :: 5.3 and 4.8 LS based Conversions
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