HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.
Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin
For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.
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Engine Install Question
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Gutterboy
simon123
majormojo
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jpkinerk
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944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions :: Technical Stuff (other than motors) :: General Mechanical
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Engine Install Question
So everyting has been stripped down and put back together, and I'm ready to install the LS. My qeustions is, what is the preffered method of installation? Dropping it in through the top, or up from the bottom. I'm leaning towards dropping it in, but I thought I'd consult the experts.
Also, I have the headers already on the engine. Is that good/bad?
Recap of my build to come once I get the engine in and everyhting plumbed. This forum has been an amazing resource and it's been an equally challenging/fun project thus far. I think my favorite part has been peicing together the LS430 brake system, what a hoot! Can't wait to try them out.
Thanks,
JP
Also, I have the headers already on the engine. Is that good/bad?
Recap of my build to come once I get the engine in and everyhting plumbed. This forum has been an amazing resource and it's been an equally challenging/fun project thus far. I think my favorite part has been peicing together the LS430 brake system, what a hoot! Can't wait to try them out.
Thanks,
JP
jpkinerk- Posts : 174
Join date : 2013-02-13
Re: Engine Install Question
JP, take the headers off and install the motor fully dressed (minus the headers) from the bottom. Put everything on the motor while it is out, it will save time and your back......
Install the complete clutch and bell housing assembly as well. Do a test fit of the adapter plate to the torque tub, there is sometimes stud interference that makes it hard to side together. Just clean up the holes a little so everything slides together smoothly . Then put everything on the motor and install. Make sure you leave out your radiator and anything else on the front of the car, you will need all the room you can get. Also when you install the motor onto the torque tube tighten the TT bolts before you lift it to the final resting spot (cross member touching the frame) This will give you more working room to get at the bolts. Then lift everything up into place and tighten the cross member bolt up. ( Leave the motor mount upright bolts loose till you have the cross member bolts in place, this makes for easier alignment. the headers should side in from the top without much problem. The motor will fit in from the bottom with the headers in place but you will probably scratch them up getting everything in. A piece of card board between the header and frame will help a little, Don't put tape on the headers, Once the motor is in place it's really hard to get the tape off (almost impossible).
Install the complete clutch and bell housing assembly as well. Do a test fit of the adapter plate to the torque tub, there is sometimes stud interference that makes it hard to side together. Just clean up the holes a little so everything slides together smoothly . Then put everything on the motor and install. Make sure you leave out your radiator and anything else on the front of the car, you will need all the room you can get. Also when you install the motor onto the torque tube tighten the TT bolts before you lift it to the final resting spot (cross member touching the frame) This will give you more working room to get at the bolts. Then lift everything up into place and tighten the cross member bolt up. ( Leave the motor mount upright bolts loose till you have the cross member bolts in place, this makes for easier alignment. the headers should side in from the top without much problem. The motor will fit in from the bottom with the headers in place but you will probably scratch them up getting everything in. A piece of card board between the header and frame will help a little, Don't put tape on the headers, Once the motor is in place it's really hard to get the tape off (almost impossible).
Re: Engine Install Question
Hi,
I'm wondering why you recommend installing from the bottom? Why does it work better that way? Offhand, I can't think how I can get the car up that high safely in my garage. The car is up on jackstands now, but there's no way the engine will clear underneath. Anyone have any pics of how they did this without a lift?
I'm wondering why you recommend installing from the bottom? Why does it work better that way? Offhand, I can't think how I can get the car up that high safely in my garage. The car is up on jackstands now, but there's no way the engine will clear underneath. Anyone have any pics of how they did this without a lift?
majormojo- Posts : 82
Join date : 2012-04-19
Re: Engine Install Question
Ahh, bottom is obviously the way to go then. Thanks for the install instructions. A few additional questions. Currently I have just the front end of the car on jack stands. If I use these on the tallest setting, will the engine be able to be rolled underneath the car? Also, will the angle of the torque tube be too extreme to connect everything? Will I have to jack up the rear of the car to an equal height as the front?
Sorry for the barage of questions, first timer here.
Sorry for the barage of questions, first timer here.
jpkinerk- Posts : 174
Join date : 2013-02-13
How to
Use engine crane to raise front of car high enough to slide engine under car. Use a piece of carpet or even a creeper to move engine. Lower car back to jack stands then use crane to lift engine into place. Rent a crane if you don't have one, well worth buying a crane from Harbor Freight or Northern. Worth its weight in gold.
Personally I put my engine in from the top while the body was raised on jack stands.
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Personally I put my engine in from the top while the body was raised on jack stands.
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simon123- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-07-26
Re: Engine Install Question
For both of you, (I don't have any pictures, so you'll have to use your imagination) If you place a floor jack under the little cross support just behind the TT's front plate, ( the black support bolted to the body, your torque tube is probably laying on it right now) you can jack the car up high enough to get the motor under the front of the car. Just slide it on a piece of card board, it will move fairly easy, then let the car back down to the lowest settings of your jack stands. Take the engine hoist and lift the motor into place.
If you insist on putting it in from the top make sure you leave off nearly everything on the front of the motor, you will need the room. I personally have done it that way one time and will never do it that way again.
If you insist on putting it in from the top make sure you leave off nearly everything on the front of the motor, you will need the room. I personally have done it that way one time and will never do it that way again.
I must add
Sorry, I must add that i had cut away the latch panel which allows more room to work with.
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simon123- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-07-26
great info
these are all great things to know when i finally get to that stage of the swap. i myself will be taking eric's advice on trying to save as much headache/time possible with dropping the old block out the bottom and bring the ls1 from underneath as well.
Thinking of grabbing some 6 ton jackstands since that's the smallest i can find that go to a height of 23 ?/16" height (i heard lots of trouble with only raising the car to 20" for dropping the old block)
does it really take more than having the entire car raised two feet in the air to get the ls1 under?
also where's the proper points front and back to put the car up that high on jackstands? forgive me for asking but i want to be dead sure i got it lifted right for having it to the full extent of the height on these jackstands before i start climbing underneath.
can't wait till the conversion kit comes. running out of excuses to start turning wrenches once that comes.
Thinking of grabbing some 6 ton jackstands since that's the smallest i can find that go to a height of 23 ?/16" height (i heard lots of trouble with only raising the car to 20" for dropping the old block)
does it really take more than having the entire car raised two feet in the air to get the ls1 under?
also where's the proper points front and back to put the car up that high on jackstands? forgive me for asking but i want to be dead sure i got it lifted right for having it to the full extent of the height on these jackstands before i start climbing underneath.
can't wait till the conversion kit comes. running out of excuses to start turning wrenches once that comes.
Gutterboy- Posts : 229
Join date : 2013-05-31
Age : 43
Location : calgary, AB
Re: Engine Install Question
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944convert- Posts : 253
Join date : 2009-10-25
Thanks!
now that picture was worth a thousand words!
Gutterboy- Posts : 229
Join date : 2013-05-31
Age : 43
Location : calgary, AB
Re: Engine Install Question
Yeah..Rich Sandor nailed it!
There are sheet metal 'donuts' under there that are tempting to use but as Rich says...don't.
They were used to push the 'white' tubs around the factory on dollies... not for lifting the fully assembled car.
There are sheet metal 'donuts' under there that are tempting to use but as Rich says...don't.
They were used to push the 'white' tubs around the factory on dollies... not for lifting the fully assembled car.
944convert- Posts : 253
Join date : 2009-10-25
Re: Engine Install Question
Done with SUV jack and jackstands. Once the engine is under the car and in position, drop the front and level it, then lift it into position.majormojo wrote:Hi,
I'm wondering why you recommend installing from the bottom? Why does it work better that way? Offhand, I can't think how I can get the car up that high safely in my garage. The car is up on jackstands now, but there's no way the engine will clear underneath. Anyone have any pics of how they did this without a lift?
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skywalker01- Posts : 477
Join date : 2009-07-22
Age : 60
In from the bottom
In addition to the points mentioned above....
IIRC ~24" are needed to slide the engine under. I slid mine in through the wheel well as the frame rail is at its highest.
I had the rear wheels/tires of the car on the ground and SUV jack stands in the front jack points.
To slide the engine in and out I placed it on a 2'x2' piece of plywood and used a dozen or-so 1/4" round dowels as bearings.
IIRC ~24" are needed to slide the engine under. I slid mine in through the wheel well as the frame rail is at its highest.
I had the rear wheels/tires of the car on the ground and SUV jack stands in the front jack points.
To slide the engine in and out I placed it on a 2'x2' piece of plywood and used a dozen or-so 1/4" round dowels as bearings.
948- Moderator
- Posts : 573
Join date : 2009-06-09
Age : 108
Location : East PA
Re: Engine Install Question
You should check this.. before
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After
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24" High use your creeper and you get it back when use your lift. I went through the wheel well.
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After
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24" High use your creeper and you get it back when use your lift. I went through the wheel well.
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gdopnt- Posts : 127
Join date : 2012-11-12
Location : Rockford, Illinois
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944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions :: Technical Stuff (other than motors) :: General Mechanical
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