83 944 LS heater valve

Hi all! I've looked all through the forum and can't find anything for using the 4 port vacuum controlled heater valve on an early 944 that uses a cable heater valve instead of vacuum. I can't thank all of you enough for the help I've gotten from this site. It's making my 5.3 transplant lots more manageable. Thanks for some input.

Bumping this up because I'm in need of some help on this, too. I've found a bunch of vacuum-operated valves, but very little for cable-operated valves that recirculate. I'm sure I could make something work, but I don't want to reinvent the wheel.

Pelican parts has them just google it. I just gave one away too. It was brand new because I ordered the wrong one.

They have recirculating valves? I still have the stock one in a box, but I want one that'll actually route the coolant back to the block instead of just closing one of the hoses.

No it's just a blocker. But there's no real point as if it blocks the flow, you just have a line full of water and the rest stays in the system.

zeusrotty wrote:No it's just a blocker. But there's no real point as if it blocks the flow, you just have a line full of water and the rest stays in the system.

Alright, I'll just figure something out.

I have not seen anyone using this, but it might be a good starting point?
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948 wrote:I have not seen anyone using this, but it might be a good starting point?
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Yeah, I saw that one. I was hoping to use one like the Fords and Chevys do since they're more compact. I can get the job done, I just wanted to see if anybody had gone before me.

On my 928 LS swap, the Chevy S10 valve requires vacuum to close the ports, so I just plumbed it directly to the white/blue 1-way check valve that comes off the brake booster vac line. When the winter comes, I'll just unplug it. This allowed me to dump the entire AC vac control crap.

xschop wrote:On my 928 LS swap, the Chevy S10 valve requires vacuum to close the ports, so I just plumbed it directly to the white/blue 1-way check valve that comes off the brake booster vac line. When the winter comes, I'll just unplug it. This allowed me to dump the entire AC vac control crap.

I'd like to make mine work with the control in the cabin (I'm not going to be driving in winter, but I sometimes want a little bit of heat on the defrost), but that's probably not a bad idea to get it going temporarily. I'm going to guess the cars these valves came in actually have a blend door in the heater box, so fine-grained control isn't an issue there.

I just never liked the cable controlled valves, They always seem to spring a leak at the butterfly shaft.
Then again, somethings gotta leak or its not a real 944.

xschop wrote:I just never liked the cable controlled valves, They always seem to spring a leak at the butterfly shaft.
Then again, somethings gotta leak or its not a real 944.

That's why I didn't want to just put the stocker back in there. I just didn't realize at the time it was the only way of controlling the heat. I already have a tiny pinhole leak in my radiator, so I'm covered on that front.

Sorry I never got back to this, but this is how I did mine. I bought a universal choke cable 6 ft long and used it in place of the stock cable from the control. I used a stock porsche valve so it hooked up fine. All you have to do to the new cable is put a couple of z bends on the ends. After I realized this would not give the constant water circulation I've read the ls engines need to avoid running hot I made a 4 way "h" manifold to put inline between the water pump and heater valve. When the valve is open water should go straight through to the heater core. When the valve is closed the water should make a u-turn and go back to the pump. It can't go through the core because with the valve closed at the other end its essentially blocked. I'll try to get a good pic when I get home from work if anyone needs it.