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LS1 Alternator Hookup
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944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions :: Technical Stuff (other than motors) :: Electrical Mods
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Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Jasonscottw wrote:Rich- on the Painless Adaptor, did you use the resistor noted in the instructions given by painless?
No. I hooked it to the blue wire of the original 944 wiring which goes into the dash and the battery warning bulb acts as a resistor. It's been working fine for a couple years now.
Rich
Rich L.- Posts : 928
Join date : 2011-05-30
Location : Seattle
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Rich- one more question
What gauge wire did you run from ALT/adapter
to the battery?
Thanks-
Jason
What gauge wire did you run from ALT/adapter
to the battery?
Thanks-
Jason
Jasonscottw- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-10-17
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Hey Jason. I actually re-used the stock 944 cable. I turned it around so the crimp where the two cables are joined is at the battery, instead of at the alternator. The shorter cable runs to the starter and the longer around the back of the engine and down to the alternator. It worked.
As for the gauge, I'm not sure what that cable is. 2ga? 1ga?
Good luck. Sounds like you're getting close.
Rich
As for the gauge, I'm not sure what that cable is. 2ga? 1ga?
Good luck. Sounds like you're getting close.
Rich
Rich L.- Posts : 928
Join date : 2011-05-30
Location : Seattle
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Thanks Rich- yeah, home stretch.
If only I could find the friggn blue alternator trip wire.
Can't find anywhere. I found the starter wire, and the motor turns over-
But guess I gutted the harness too much- no
Blue wire.
Any idea where that blue wire goes to before the 2 pin connector?
Been wading through wiring diagrams, but can't locate.
Could I tap in at fuse box? Somewhere?
The only blue wire I've located by the fire wall is in the 7 pin round connector, which
seems to go to the fog lamps. Medium/bright blue.
Any thoughts?
Anyone?
Super stumped-
- j a s o n
If only I could find the friggn blue alternator trip wire.
Can't find anywhere. I found the starter wire, and the motor turns over-
But guess I gutted the harness too much- no
Blue wire.
Any idea where that blue wire goes to before the 2 pin connector?
Been wading through wiring diagrams, but can't locate.
Could I tap in at fuse box? Somewhere?
The only blue wire I've located by the fire wall is in the 7 pin round connector, which
seems to go to the fog lamps. Medium/bright blue.
Any thoughts?
Anyone?
Super stumped-
- j a s o n
Jasonscottw- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-10-17
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Ok, still battling this. Quick question, I have the 4 wire Chevy alternator. Do I hook up the signal wire from the alternator to BOTH the ABS signal wire (red/black stripe) *and* the D+ Charge light wire (blue)? So splice the two Porsche body harness wires together and hook them up to the signal wire from the Chevy alternator?
That way I'd only be using two out of the 4 wires coming from the alternator, is that correct?
Or, do I hook the ABS signal wire up to the red/black stripe, then give either switched 12V or unswitched 12V to the D+ charge light?
That way I'd only be using two out of the 4 wires coming from the alternator, is that correct?
Or, do I hook the ABS signal wire up to the red/black stripe, then give either switched 12V or unswitched 12V to the D+ charge light?
docwyte- Posts : 1393
Join date : 2010-07-18
Simple solution
Take your alternator to the shop, have them fit a one wire self exciting module.
One heavy wire from battery to alternator, simple, easy and trouble free.
One heavy wire from battery to alternator, simple, easy and trouble free.
simon123- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-07-26
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Thanks for the reply, but it doesn't really answer the questions I have. I don't want a 1 wire hook up for several reasons, the main one being I need to send an alternator signal to the ABS.
What I need to know is do I splice both the D+ charge wire and the ABS signal wire together and then hook both up to the alternator signal wire off the alternator?
What I need to know is do I splice both the D+ charge wire and the ABS signal wire together and then hook both up to the alternator signal wire off the alternator?
docwyte- Posts : 1393
Join date : 2010-07-18
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Here's what I did... This is the instruction page that came with the pigtail from Painless.
It calls for 2 connections to the car. This in addition, of course, to the big cable that goes from the post on the alternator to the battery and starter motor.
"IGNITION SOURCE" - This I spliced to the blue wire from the 2-pin connector at the firewall. I believe this goes into the dash and hooks up to the battery warning light.
"BATTERY" - This I ran a new wire to the fuse box and spliced into switched power. So this gets 12 volts the same time as the PCM and everything else.
Now, as far as triggering the ABS computer, this gets a little murky. My '87 n/a didn't have ABS from the factory, but I found a 4-pin connector behind the glove box on the passenger side with all of the stuff the ABS needs. One of the wires in that connector gets power once the alternator starts generating volts, telling the ABS computer when the engine is actually running and triggering it's self-diag stuff. The other wires in that 4-pin connector are switched power, brake lights and the ANTI-LOCK light in the dash.
Josh, your car might be different as it's an '89 with factory ABS. But maybe this connection behind the glove box is all good. I'd focus on getting the charge light in the dash working. That should come on when you key over to ON along with the rest of the warning lights. And it should go out once the engine starts, meaning the alternator is generating volts. That very well could be enough for whatever circuitry exists in there to tell the ABS computer to go.
Rich
It calls for 2 connections to the car. This in addition, of course, to the big cable that goes from the post on the alternator to the battery and starter motor.
"IGNITION SOURCE" - This I spliced to the blue wire from the 2-pin connector at the firewall. I believe this goes into the dash and hooks up to the battery warning light.
"BATTERY" - This I ran a new wire to the fuse box and spliced into switched power. So this gets 12 volts the same time as the PCM and everything else.
Now, as far as triggering the ABS computer, this gets a little murky. My '87 n/a didn't have ABS from the factory, but I found a 4-pin connector behind the glove box on the passenger side with all of the stuff the ABS needs. One of the wires in that connector gets power once the alternator starts generating volts, telling the ABS computer when the engine is actually running and triggering it's self-diag stuff. The other wires in that 4-pin connector are switched power, brake lights and the ANTI-LOCK light in the dash.
Josh, your car might be different as it's an '89 with factory ABS. But maybe this connection behind the glove box is all good. I'd focus on getting the charge light in the dash working. That should come on when you key over to ON along with the rest of the warning lights. And it should go out once the engine starts, meaning the alternator is generating volts. That very well could be enough for whatever circuitry exists in there to tell the ABS computer to go.
Rich
Rich L.- Posts : 928
Join date : 2011-05-30
Location : Seattle
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
So I got the painless 30707, but then realized I have the CS130d alternator. So I got the 30705 pigtail from Painless.
The thing is, the wiring instructions are different from the 30707- there is an ignition input into terminals i AND L, with the designation that the line to L has the bulb-
Anyone done this?? Help?
The thing is, the wiring instructions are different from the 30707- there is an ignition input into terminals i AND L, with the designation that the line to L has the bulb-
Anyone done this?? Help?
Jasonscottw- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-10-17
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Sorry Jason, I should've said this. Yes, the diagram above is the 30707 "late" style plug. And this one is the 30705 "early" plug that is shaped differently.
I did the same thing: bought the 07, didn't fit, then bought the 05. But I wired the 05 just the same with the blue wire to the L pin and a new wire from switched power to the I pin.
Rich
I did the same thing: bought the 07, didn't fit, then bought the 05. But I wired the 05 just the same with the blue wire to the L pin and a new wire from switched power to the I pin.
Rich
Rich L.- Posts : 928
Join date : 2011-05-30
Location : Seattle
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
By the way, Jason, check docwyte's thread "It begins..." He's working on the same thing, wiring his alternator, and has some different ideas than mine. My setup is working in my car but others have done it very differently. Good luck.
Rich
Rich
Rich L.- Posts : 928
Join date : 2011-05-30
Location : Seattle
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Thanks Rich. Got it.
Yup, I've been following Docwyte's thread.
Last question:
Where did you get switched power from? Confused as to the best place to pull from-
Thanks again-
Yup, I've been following Docwyte's thread.
Last question:
Where did you get switched power from? Confused as to the best place to pull from-
Thanks again-
Jasonscottw- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-10-17
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Rich- I really appreciate the help!
Problem: I'm still not getting the alt warning light to glow. It never has, but I figured until now that this could be because the alt had zero wiring to it. Could the alt warning bulb be blown? Is there a way to test it without removing the instrument panel?
My current scenario:
Alt is wired up as per instructions, using the painless pigtail. Brown to the blue exciter wire by firewall, pink to switched power. I pulled switched power from the heated seat fuse, which showed +12 on my multi meter only when ignition on.
1 gauge wire goes from the post on the back of the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery.
Is there any way to test the bulb? Is it easy/hard to replace the bulb? Did the advanced search but only came up with methods of instrument removal.
****When I tested the blue wire with a multi meter it did not show any voltage when the ignition turned on. Is that confirmation that the bulb is bad? /I.e. Is it wired "in line" and so it wouldn't let voltage past if it it was blown?
What am I doing wrong?
At the moment I can only crank the engine over, - a buddy is fabricating the exhaust and programming the ECU for me. It's due @ his shop at the end of the week so trying to get everything resolved before then.
So close . . .
Any input greatly appreciated.
Problem: I'm still not getting the alt warning light to glow. It never has, but I figured until now that this could be because the alt had zero wiring to it. Could the alt warning bulb be blown? Is there a way to test it without removing the instrument panel?
My current scenario:
Alt is wired up as per instructions, using the painless pigtail. Brown to the blue exciter wire by firewall, pink to switched power. I pulled switched power from the heated seat fuse, which showed +12 on my multi meter only when ignition on.
1 gauge wire goes from the post on the back of the alternator to the positive terminal on the battery.
Is there any way to test the bulb? Is it easy/hard to replace the bulb? Did the advanced search but only came up with methods of instrument removal.
****When I tested the blue wire with a multi meter it did not show any voltage when the ignition turned on. Is that confirmation that the bulb is bad? /I.e. Is it wired "in line" and so it wouldn't let voltage past if it it was blown?
What am I doing wrong?
At the moment I can only crank the engine over, - a buddy is fabricating the exhaust and programming the ECU for me. It's due @ his shop at the end of the week so trying to get everything resolved before then.
So close . . .
Any input greatly appreciated.
Jasonscottw- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-10-17
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Really easy to pull the cluster and confirm that
A: The bulb is actually there
B: The bulb isn't blown
Laugh all you want at "A", but a douchebag previous owner of my car had removed ALL the warning light bulbs from the cluster...
A: The bulb is actually there
B: The bulb isn't blown
Laugh all you want at "A", but a douchebag previous owner of my car had removed ALL the warning light bulbs from the cluster...
docwyte- Posts : 1393
Join date : 2010-07-18
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Thanks docwyte- nothing would surprise me at this point
Do you think that no voltage @ the blue alt exciting wire upon ignition is indicative of a blown (or MISSING) bulb? Assuming I even have the correct blue wire . . .
the first "how to'" I found on an 87 cluster removal looked like a PIA, but maybe that's just because of my current frustration level-
Maybe I will sort out the TACH while I've got it apart, but that's seems to a whole other can of worms with 50 different "right ways" to do it . . .
Onwards . . .
Do you think that no voltage @ the blue alt exciting wire upon ignition is indicative of a blown (or MISSING) bulb? Assuming I even have the correct blue wire . . .
the first "how to'" I found on an 87 cluster removal looked like a PIA, but maybe that's just because of my current frustration level-
Maybe I will sort out the TACH while I've got it apart, but that's seems to a whole other can of worms with 50 different "right ways" to do it . . .
Onwards . . .
Jasonscottw- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-10-17
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Hmm, that's not sounding right. Doc's suggestions are good. I'm afraid I don't know what to expect for voltage on that blue wire with or without the engine running. And my car's across town these days, still parked at the old house.
As for cluster removal, it's a pain the first time but gets easier. The wiring connector deals are the worst part, they have levers that clamp down to the back of the cluster.
Rich
As for cluster removal, it's a pain the first time but gets easier. The wiring connector deals are the worst part, they have levers that clamp down to the back of the cluster.
Rich
Rich L.- Posts : 928
Join date : 2011-05-30
Location : Seattle
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Key on I'd expect the charge light to come on in the cluster.
Getting the cluster out is pretty simple, just a bunch of phillips head screws...
Getting the cluster out is pretty simple, just a bunch of phillips head screws...
docwyte- Posts : 1393
Join date : 2010-07-18
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Docwyte- you totally called it! No bulbs on the bottom half of the tach.
None- looks like the previous owner wanted to make the check engine light
disappear ;(
Ordered some bulbs and hopefully when I plug in the empties all will be good.
Fingers crossed-
Thanks again-
None- looks like the previous owner wanted to make the check engine light
disappear ;(
Ordered some bulbs and hopefully when I plug in the empties all will be good.
Fingers crossed-
Thanks again-
Jasonscottw- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-10-17
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Ugh- I replaced the bulbs on the back of the gauge, and still
No lights at all anywhere on the oil pressure/voltage gauge.
The volt gauge/needle is working though.
Any ideas? Issue with the circuit board on the back of the instruments?
Maybe I should give up and switch to a one wire set up.
Totally stumped . . .
No lights at all anywhere on the oil pressure/voltage gauge.
The volt gauge/needle is working though.
Any ideas? Issue with the circuit board on the back of the instruments?
Maybe I should give up and switch to a one wire set up.
Totally stumped . . .
Jasonscottw- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-10-17
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Do you still have the factory alarm? Is it hooked up right? Did you hook up the blue charge wire correctly?
docwyte- Posts : 1393
Join date : 2010-07-18
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
I tore out the alarm without much caution.
Could that have caused a problem with the power to the gauges
and to the blue wire? Now that I'm thinking about it, it would make sense that the
alarm would disable the ignition And associated switched circuits.
Already dealing with the fallout from cutting out alarm in terms of
releasing/opening the rear hatch . . .
I'm pretty sure the alternator is wired correctly to the blue wire.
However, when energizing the starter/ignition ON, the blue wire never showed
any voltage when tested-
Replacing the alarm and associated wiring seems like a huge PIA.
Wondering if it is as simple as splicing the blue wire back together if indeed I cut power to it when removing the alarm- or would I need to replace the alarm module? or just bypass? Ugh. Sounds like a nightmare. Wish i had better wiring schematics of that region.
Or maybe i just go for the one wire hook up and not care about warning lights.
But then i don't have the option of hooking up the ABS, and also there are convincing arguments about the inefficiency of a self exciting alternator.
Or, install the resistor that Painless spec's if not using a warning light? Or just install a 12v 2 watt bulb in line on the blue wire to replace the missing ALT warning light that excited the alternator?? Wouldn't that do the same thing as the alternator warning light that is in the gauge?
Hey Rich, did you remove the alarm or leave it? If you removed, did you do anything with the associated wiring?
Last thing I need to resolve before this baby is on the road-
Appreciate the advice-
J a s o n
Could that have caused a problem with the power to the gauges
and to the blue wire? Now that I'm thinking about it, it would make sense that the
alarm would disable the ignition And associated switched circuits.
Already dealing with the fallout from cutting out alarm in terms of
releasing/opening the rear hatch . . .
I'm pretty sure the alternator is wired correctly to the blue wire.
However, when energizing the starter/ignition ON, the blue wire never showed
any voltage when tested-
Replacing the alarm and associated wiring seems like a huge PIA.
Wondering if it is as simple as splicing the blue wire back together if indeed I cut power to it when removing the alarm- or would I need to replace the alarm module? or just bypass? Ugh. Sounds like a nightmare. Wish i had better wiring schematics of that region.
Or maybe i just go for the one wire hook up and not care about warning lights.
But then i don't have the option of hooking up the ABS, and also there are convincing arguments about the inefficiency of a self exciting alternator.
Or, install the resistor that Painless spec's if not using a warning light? Or just install a 12v 2 watt bulb in line on the blue wire to replace the missing ALT warning light that excited the alternator?? Wouldn't that do the same thing as the alternator warning light that is in the gauge?
Hey Rich, did you remove the alarm or leave it? If you removed, did you do anything with the associated wiring?
Last thing I need to resolve before this baby is on the road-
Appreciate the advice-
J a s o n
Jasonscottw- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-10-17
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
The alarm and electric boot release were removed by a shop years ago when my car was made into a spec racer. I don't know exactly what they did but there's a bundle of wiring and relays zip tied under the fuse box. My dash warning lights all function normally.
Bummer on your continued troubles.
Rich
Bummer on your continued troubles.
Rich
Rich L.- Posts : 928
Join date : 2011-05-30
Location : Seattle
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Ok, that's definitely your problem. That blue charge wire circuit goes through the alarm circuit. It also controls the rear hatch release on the late model cars and I suspect all sorts of other things.
I removed the alarm from my car and have the same issues as you. Luckily I didn't remove the wiring and harness plug, so I can just plug it back in.
On the late model cars the alarm bypass procedure on Clarks garage is wrong and you jump power to ground if you follow it. So on the 88+ cars you can't use it.
You can just loop the blue wire past the alarm circuit, but you still wouldn't have the rear hatch working...
I removed the alarm from my car and have the same issues as you. Luckily I didn't remove the wiring and harness plug, so I can just plug it back in.
On the late model cars the alarm bypass procedure on Clarks garage is wrong and you jump power to ground if you follow it. So on the 88+ cars you can't use it.
You can just loop the blue wire past the alarm circuit, but you still wouldn't have the rear hatch working...
docwyte- Posts : 1393
Join date : 2010-07-18
Re: LS1 Alternator Hookup
Thanks docwyte-
Luckily I didn't remove all the wiring so I soldered the connector back in and jumped the pins as per
Clark's (I have an 87 n/a), and now I've got the alternator warning light glowing!
Yippee!
Now on to the hatch-
Thanks again for steering me in the right direction-
J a s o n
Luckily I didn't remove all the wiring so I soldered the connector back in and jumped the pins as per
Clark's (I have an 87 n/a), and now I've got the alternator warning light glowing!
Yippee!
Now on to the hatch-
Thanks again for steering me in the right direction-
J a s o n
Jasonscottw- Posts : 125
Join date : 2013-10-17
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944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions :: Technical Stuff (other than motors) :: Electrical Mods
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