944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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bump steer, manual rack tie rod end adapter (come in xschop)

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bump steer, manual rack tie rod end adapter (come in xschop) Empty bump steer, manual rack tie rod end adapter (come in xschop)

Post  B.Rudy Fri Sep 14, 2012 9:55 pm

Ok so I am swapping in a manual steering rack into a 88 turbo chassis (so wide body) and need to address 2 issues.
1) bumpsteer
2)need a longer tie rod end due to narrow manual rack

SO...There are different options, Id like to use a sperical rod end(hiem Joint) and buy this:
[url=http://www.speedwaymotors.com/adjustable-tie-rod-adapter-stud-to-heim,3333.html]tie rod adapter[/url]
but I will need a hexagon threaded adpater stud to increase the length of the tie rod end because of the wider track the 88T has. However That tie rod adapter in the link is SAE and so the threaded adapter stud would need to be metric on one side and SAE on the other. Which is my question does anyone know where to find one of these?
Xschop could/would you make one for me?

Thanks for any input,
Bryan

B.Rudy

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Post  Rich L. Sat Sep 15, 2012 10:34 am

Doesn't correct bump steer, but there's a VW tie rods that converts an early rack for use with late tie rod ends on a late offset car. This is what I did for my manual rack.

https://944hybrids.forumotion.com/t55p60-xschop-s-53-lm7-build?highlight=nailed+it

Rich
Rich L.
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Post  xschop Sat Sep 15, 2012 5:07 pm

Those are the solution. If you want to do a bump steer stud inexpensively. Then drill and ream your knucles 5/8" and use a grade 12 5/8" dia. , long shank bolt and the 5/8-18 teflon heims.
xschop
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Post  B.Rudy Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:28 pm

right so, that is basically what im trying to accomplish, but a slightly different way. I may not be understanding something right but Rob (XSchop) you are using a female adapter with a male Hiem, and replacing the inner tie rod with a moog. What I am asking/proposing is why cant someone make a male thread adapter stud and us a female Hiem? This way I would not have to replace my factory inner tie rods...? You guys have obviously already finished your steering so please if I am missing something let me know!?!?
I do plan on using a 5/8 Hiem (like you guys did) but using that tie rod adpater that I linked in my 1st post from speedwaymotors for the knuckle/spindle instead of having to drill/ream my knuckle.

Sooo...XSchop, sitting here thinking, is there a reason you went the direction you did? ie.female tie rod adpater instead of male adpater?

Thanks for all your input!
Bryan

B.Rudy

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Post  xschop Sat Sep 15, 2012 7:34 pm

5/8" knuckle for STRENGTH as the paragon-elephant-LR stuff is crap. I know that the TPF (Taper per foot) of the 944 knuckle is 1" .....calculated from 12mm top hole 13.5mm bottom hole and 18mm thru the taper.....I don't think the pinto is the correct TPF for the 944 knuckle.

That said, see if you can find a 14mm x 1.5 female heim and go from there.
xschop
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Post  B.Rudy Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:23 am

Agreed I dont think the elaphant 12mm through bolt is strong enough. And No I dont think the Pinto adapter from speedway will work but I do think (but not sure) that the GM one will work. There are two different types to choose from. With my micrometer I measured (basically the same as you Rob) the top of the factory ball joint taper to be 12.70mm(.500") and the bottom of the taper to be basically 14mm(.555"). Speedway advertizes there adapter to be: .460" at the top and .615" at the bottom. Which is pretty close, no? would that work?

Now aside from that,
I am still wondering about the male to male double adjusting stud to connect the female factory inner tie rod to a female Hiem using something like this:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/stainless-steel-double-adjuster-5-8-18-threads-4-1-4-inch-length,6844.html
Only I would obviously need metric 14mm x 1.5 thread on one side and 5/8 18 thread on the other.

So Rob could you/would you machine something like I am explaining? would need to be a high tensile strength type steel obviously, for strength.

Thanks,
Bryan

B.Rudy

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Post  xschop Sun Sep 16, 2012 10:00 am

The taper degree does NOT match the 944. The Pinto 7* is the closest. I calculated the 944 knuckle at at a smaller taper degree. A few thousandths of play at the knuckle from a wrong stud/pin translates to many thousandths of play a few inches below and the pin will fail. NO ONE makes a true 1" TPF bump steer stud (that I've found) and the better bet is to drill and REAM your knuckle for a 5/8" stud....

https://944hybrids.forumotion.com/t20p15-x-member-drop-down-bolt-on-bump-steer-kit?highlight=bump
xschop
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Post  B.Rudy Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:31 pm

Ok Rob (XSchop) you win Smile after all you are the man when it comes to the machineing of stuff around here. I will take to a local machine shop and have them drill an ream my knuckles to 5/8.

So im still curious is there a reason you went with a female rod to lengthen the total tie rod length, instead of a male threaded piece? -again im talking about the horizontal rod end
Could I buy a piece of hexagon rod and cut the threads myself with a typical die set?

Thanks I apprecaite all your help on this!
Bryan

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Post  xschop Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:43 pm

On the manual rack the threads to the inner tie-rod are m22 x 1.5 FEMALE. The Power rack to inner tie-rod is m14 x 1.5 MALE..

The Moog EV-154 is m22 x 1.5 at the rack and m14x 1.5 at the end. Therefore the 4" long adapter to the 5/8" MALE heim. Yes, you can make your own adapter with hex


Make sure they (shop) sets up the spindle at the correct degreeing. I posted the 2 different degrees needed on each spindle before drilling/reaming or your stud/bolt will come out crooked.

Just checked, the Late spindle caster angle is 3 degrees and the camber angle is 15 degrees.
xschop
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Post  B.Rudy Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:08 pm

xschop wrote:Make sure they (shop) sets up the spindle at the correct degreeing. I posted the 2 different degrees needed on each spindle before drilling/reaming or your stud/bolt will come out crooked.

Just checked, the Late spindle caster angle is 3 degrees and the camber angle is 15 degrees.

regarding what you said here. So I just need to tell the machine shop those two degrees you posted above and I should be good? Sorry I dont want to assume anything because the Turbo S spindles I have are NOT cheap! Ill be pissed if they screw them up Wink

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Post  B.Rudy Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:41 pm

Oh also, I talked to UB Machine and they said they would be willing to make a few male to male threaded turnbuckles like this: http://www.poske.com/detail_it.htm?part=URB47-1006&action=single

Only they would have the proper Porsche 14 x 1.5mm RH thread on one side and 5/8" x 18 LH thread on the other so that a 5/8" bump steer bolt could be used for a more readily availible rod end (hiem Joint). This is especially useful for those (like me) who are doing a manual steering rack conversion on a late body 944
Contact them if your interested. They're going to start cutting these in a week or so.

-Bryan

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