944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Clutch heatsoak?

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Clutch heatsoak? Empty Clutch heatsoak?

Post  Porch Sun Mar 25, 2012 11:54 am

Has anyone else had any issues with heatsoak on the clutch system?

My clutch works awesome the first time out, but any time i park the car and come back to it, it feels a little less solid.

I think there are two possible reasons for this: either the clutch itself is getting heat soaked, or the braided stainless lines i'm using for the system are absorbing heat. Maybe both.

Just curious if anyone else has had this issue and/or done something about it. Was considering getting some wrap for the lines.
Porch
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Post  Rich L. Sun Mar 25, 2012 12:03 pm

If the latter, maybe a higher temp fluid would help. I use Motul RBF 600. But honestly it sounds more like air in the system. Are you pressure or buddy bleeding it? I've found pressure bleeding to not be enough with these Wilwood masters when you're started from new and they're empty.

Rich
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Post  Porch Sun Mar 25, 2012 1:35 pm

I'm using the ATE blue stuff, i think it's about 550* which is probably okay.

It might just be air, though! I replaced my clutch bleeder valve with a speed bleeder, but it probably needs some more time to get all the bubbles out. I'll give it a few more bleeds and see what happens.
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Post  Rich L. Sun Mar 25, 2012 2:03 pm

Yeah, the SuperBlue is good. Hope bleeding helps, best of luck.

Rich
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Post  87-944S Sun Mar 25, 2012 4:47 pm

I had to bleed the Wilwood M/C before the entire system. I connected the output of the M/C to a plastic hose, and put the hose back in the reservoir. Pump the clutch pedal several times, until no bubbles come out of the M/C then hook it up to to the rest of the system and bleed it. I had to do this with the brake M/Cs as well, no amount of bleeding (using a Motive unit) would give me a firm pedal, until I bled the M/C.
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Post  Porch Sun Mar 25, 2012 6:52 pm

Ah, good to know! That might explain my problem then. I guess it makes sense...the air probably gets trapped way up in the top of the master.
Thanks!
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Post  aixgelo78 Sun Mar 25, 2012 9:34 pm

Might be totally unrelated.... but this is my experience.

I have a Sloan reinforcement plate on mine, and it is making the clutch slave cylinder angle slightly off. By this, I mean the clutch rod is very slightly angled causing the rubber boot to bind and making my clutch pedal feel spongy and even get stuck down after it gets warmed up.

It get bad after about 15-20 minutes of driving where the clutch pedal stays down. I have to foot it back up to help it. I first thought it was something else until I started looking deep into the problem and found some rub marks on the clutch rod. I placed some axle grease inside the grommet and I am hoping that would help resolve the issue. I tested it today and found a smoother feel.

Chris

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Post  Porch Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:12 pm

Thanks aixgelo78. I checked on mine and i'm getting a good smooth push right down the middle.

I actually had the problem you're describing with the pedal sticking down before, you can help it out by loosening the nut on the assist spring (easiest to get to it by removing the fuse block and coming from the top).
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Post  gamman Tue Mar 27, 2012 10:48 pm

My z06 would have that. Race car engineered from the factory with? 30k miles. OK, lots of track miles, like a dog year but still, not the conversions fault is all I am trying to say. Clutch pedal to the floor after warm out and some spirited acceleration. $80 /litre/quart castrol srf cured all. It's beautiful stuff.

Mechanic did say that slaves were weak on the tranny.
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