944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Steering rack clearance

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xschop
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Steering rack clearance Empty Steering rack clearance

Post  948inVA Sun Apr 22, 2012 9:52 am

Trying to fit my power steering rack onto the car.. I bent the hard lines out of the way but the rack itself is now hitting the oil pan (round part of the aluminum housing is hitting, center of picture). Has anyone run into this before? I'm wondering if I should grind a bit off the rack or just make a dent in the pan?

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Post  944-LT1 Sun Apr 22, 2012 10:38 am

If you were to dent the pan or grind the steering rack, you would have to account for the mount isolators settling in and engine torque; so the dent or amount of grinding could be a bit more than it stands now static.

Can you insert a spacer (big washer/s) between the DS motor mount upright and crossmember so it clears without any hood clearance issues? You could probably just cut some square metal shims if you dont have access to the big washers.

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Post  948inVA Sun Apr 22, 2012 11:54 am

I would rather not move the mounts right now, as I have enough clearance to close the hood but it's close. I'm trying to avoid running the spacers if possible. Denting the pan and grinding the rack should give me enough clearance but I'm not sure if it would be safe to do so.
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Post  fliermike45 Sun Apr 22, 2012 12:51 pm

I had to put 1/4" spacers under my engine mount feet to keep enough clearance between oil pan and rack.
I have 3/4" drop on my crossmember which gives plenty of hood clearance.

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Post  948inVA Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:57 pm

Would a manual rack give me more clearance under the pan?
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Post  spence Tue Apr 24, 2012 5:47 am

Ya, a manual rack will give you a little more clearance. When I bought my oil pan (LT1), I had to use a manual rack. A manual rack is not as hard to steer with as everyone makes it out to be.
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Post  Rich L. Tue Apr 24, 2012 8:32 am

A manual rack is what I'm using on my track car. I wanted power steering but ran into clearance issues as well. While fine on the road, it's a bit of a struggle in slow speed manuvers. I would want power steering for a street car.

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Post  948inVA Tue Apr 24, 2012 8:57 am

I would prefer the power steering too, I'm just trying to find the easiest solution here. Does anyone have an exploded view of the power rack? I'm trying to see if grinding a flat onto the rack there would cause any structural issues.
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Post  xschop Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:59 am

I wouldn't grind on the power rack. There is an inner wiper that rides on the I.D. of the housing...
I'm rebuilding another PS rack using these instructions.....
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Post  zeusrotty Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:38 pm

It looks to me like you could probably grind that down by a quarter of an inch over. And maybe dent the oil pan for a little more clearance. I may have to do that to mine also, because mine is rubbing.

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Post  zeusrotty Tue Apr 24, 2012 4:11 pm

spence wrote:Ya, a manual rack will give you a little more clearance. When I bought my oil pan (LT1), I had to use a manual rack. A manual rack is not as hard to steer with as everyone makes it out to be.

I think the feel of the manual would be better also. I feel like I have to much power steering in fast corners.

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Post  948inVA Tue Apr 24, 2012 4:21 pm

xschop wrote:I wouldn't grind on the power rack. There is an inner wiper that rides on the I.D. of the housing...
I'm rebuilding another PS rack using these instructions.....
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From those pics it looks like the area I need to grind is just where the threads are for the lock ring.
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Post  zeusrotty Tue Apr 24, 2012 4:24 pm

Which probably isn't a stressed area on the rack.

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Post  Schuepbach Tue Apr 24, 2012 5:03 pm

I ground mine down a bit and didnt have any issues...that was until the motor mounts broke after 5 hrs of use.

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Post  948inVA Tue Apr 24, 2012 5:44 pm

I did some light grinding.. there's now about 1/8" clearance to the gear casing. Problem is I just noticed that it's almost hitting in another spot (red arrow), maybe 1/16" of space there.

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Post  zeusrotty Tue Apr 24, 2012 5:48 pm

Did you take it off to grind it?

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Post  Admin Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:43 pm

Which motor mounts are you using? My new or old style?

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Post  948inVA Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:28 pm

I wouldn't know the difference, but these have a hammered type dark grey finish on them.
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Post  948inVA Fri Apr 27, 2012 5:56 pm

To update this, I'll be making some 1/4" spacers to place under the feet of the uprights... which will probably make it necessary to drop the cross member after all.
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Post  944convert Fri Apr 27, 2012 6:45 pm

Have you tried to ‘clearance’ the hood’s reinforcement ribs that normally interfere with the intake?

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Post  948inVA Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:04 am

Yes, already did that and was able to close the hood without using the spacers. Problem is the clearance between pan and rack. Since I'm raising the uprights 1/4" I probably won't be able to close the hood without also dropping the cross member.
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Post  944convert Sat Apr 28, 2012 3:30 pm

I'm planning on dropping my cross member by 1/4"...should do the trick.

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