944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Rich's LS powered 944 track car

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Post  948 Fri Dec 02, 2011 7:19 pm

944-LT1 wrote:Congrats on those numbers! Should be a monster!
x2

This makes me want to sneak the LS1 out of my wife's 2002 Camaro SS....
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Post  Rich L. Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:23 am

Pedals are disconnected and the masters are removed. Firewall looks good, no cracks.

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Post  Lemming Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:41 am

Looking good. With respect to spacers, I'm going to install 1/8" spacers tonight, after running the car for a while I have notice that the oil pan is rubbing slightly on the cross member. I'm guessing the engine has "sagged" a bit with use.
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Post  Rich L. Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:58 pm

Lemming wrote:Looking good. With respect to spacers, I'm going to install 1/8" spacers tonight, after running the car for a while I have notice that the oil pan is rubbing slightly on the cross member. I'm guessing the engine has "sagged" a bit with use.

Oh bummer. You're running the RH engine mounts, right? The body to crossmember spacers aren't going to help you with oil pan to crossmember clearance. So are you talking about spacers between the engine mounts and crossmember or between the mounts and engine?

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Post  Lemming Wed Dec 07, 2011 3:39 pm

Rich L. wrote:
Lemming wrote:Looking good. With respect to spacers, I'm going to install 1/8" spacers tonight, after running the car for a while I have notice that the oil pan is rubbing slightly on the cross member. I'm guessing the engine has "sagged" a bit with use.

Oh bummer. You're running the RH engine mounts, right? The body to crossmember spacers aren't going to help you with oil pan to crossmember clearance. So are you talking about spacers between the engine mounts and crossmember or between the mounts and engine?

Rich

Doh! Guess I'll be trimming the crossmember instead!
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Post  Rich L. Mon Jan 09, 2012 2:06 pm

I've decided to go with a floor-mounted pedal box. This alleviates clearance issues at the driver’s side head by moving the master cylinders off the firewall. With a friend’s help, I’ve fabricated a mounting plate that bolts through the floor and laterally into the door frame. It’s nice and solid. The pedal assembly is a Tilton 73-603 with remote reservoir Wilwood masters, a remote balance bar knob and a rotating throttle linkage.

This has been a lot of effort and takes a ton of fiddly little parts to make it work. But it solves a whole bunch of problems I was having including my driving position being too close to the dash. I’m still working on plumbing the hydraulics with a pressure switch for the brake lights, setting up the linkage to pull the Lokar throttle cable and fabricating a dead pedal. Meanwhile, the engine is sitting on the stand fully dressed and patiently waiting for the clutch throw to be ready for measurement.

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Rich's LS powered 944 track car - Page 2 Empty pedals

Post  kevin924kevin Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:29 pm

Those pedals are really nice, i wonder if they have that without the gas pedal.
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Post  Rich L. Mon Jan 09, 2012 4:58 pm

Yes they do. Although it might be hard to get it far enough forward for effective heal-toe with the stock throttle pedal.

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Post  Lemming Tue Jan 10, 2012 7:17 am

Love the tilton setup, I've been looking for a used one to save some $$$$. I too have the problem of being too far forward (vertically challenged) and would really like to move my seating position back.
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Post  Rich L. Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:54 am

One thing I've found is foot interference with one of the flap motors mounted on the driver's side of the hvac unit. I have the big stock stock box in the dash still and the lowest mounted flap motor is right where my toes wanted to be when running the Tilton throttle pedal. That's the servo motor that controls the floor flap (the lower adjuster on the hvac control panel) so I just pulled that motor off and cut one of its mounting points off the box. I only have the blower motor in there for the defroster and panel air just kinda comes out under the dash anyway because my cage runs right through the outer vent openings. Other than that, there's lots of room under the knee panel for moving the pedals rearward. I do still have the lower dash panel on there but I may cut it back some so I can see my feet.

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Post  Rich L. Thu Jan 12, 2012 12:13 am

Got Lift?

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You can also see here the heat shielding I've done on the body for driver's side header. This is a product from DEI called Cryo2, adhesive backed and really easy to use. Hopefully it'll hold up.

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Post  Rich L. Sat Jan 14, 2012 7:16 pm

Today was 2 steps forward, 2 steps back.

I have the throttle cable stop and the dead pedal fabricated. You may recognize the cable stop from the stock 944 throttle body. Unfortunately, 36" was not a long enough throttle cable to reach down to the pedal box. Dur, should've thought of that.

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My other problem a tee fittings to join the stock brake lines and the AN-3 lines to my masters. I think I need a 1/8 NPT brass brake tee fitting but can't find one. I see tons of 1/8 NPT tees for oil lines but these won't bottom out the flare nuts so they don't tighten. And there are brass brake tees for inverted flare but not the right thread. Anyone have a source?

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Rich's LS powered 944 track car - Page 2 Empty T Fittings

Post  fliermike45 Sat Jan 14, 2012 7:31 pm

Try Appletree Automotive

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I got metric brake T's from them to T my stock lines and then used a ready made Napa line to convert from metric T to Willwood.

They may have pipe thread T's



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Post  Rich L. Sat Jan 14, 2012 7:36 pm

Oh, they're metric not pipe? What's the thread specification? Thanks.
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Post  Rich L. Sat Jan 14, 2012 7:47 pm

Good site for parts. Thanks Mike. Is this the tee you used?

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Post  fliermike45 Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:26 pm

Rich, that's the one.

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Post  skywalker01 Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:22 am

You may want to check these out - [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
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Post  Rich L. Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:12 am

Thanks. Yeah, now that I know they're 10mm bubble flare a host of new options exist. Smile-
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Post  Lemming Tue Jan 24, 2012 6:19 pm

Rich,

Have you put your seat in to measure for fit with the tilton pedals? I am thinking about doing the same install, but am worried that I will not be able to move the seat back far enough to fit comfortably?
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Post  Rich L. Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:35 am

Not yet. Excellent question and yes, I'm nervous about it. But a rough measurement shows I'll be set back 3-4 inches which ...should... be perfect. My brake fittings arrived today after a "train derailment" over the weekend, so I'm close to having the pedals in and ready for the driver seat to go back. I'll update soon with results. (fingers crossed...)
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Post  944-LT1 Wed Jan 25, 2012 7:33 am

Will you also have to space the steering wheel out 3-4 in? I wonder if you'll be able to comfortably shift or will you have to be "reaching" for the shifter.

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Post  Lemming Wed Jan 25, 2012 9:46 am

944-LT1 wrote:Will you also have to space the steering wheel out 3-4 in? I wonder if you'll be able to comfortably shift or will you have to be "reaching" for the shifter.

I've been looking at this and will plan to lower the steering column and use a deep-dish steering wheel to put it in the proper position. I don't think the shifter will be much of an issue, if it is, easy enough to put a small reward extender on it.
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Post  Rich L. Wed Feb 01, 2012 10:29 pm

Okay, the driver's seat is back in and I love it! Being further back I was able to lower it one position on the side mounts which is much more comfortable for my legs and I won't bang my helmet on the cage anymore. The pedals are dead nuts on. I have just enough room for my right foot from the hvac box with the lower servo motor removed and my dead pedal is perfect. The brake pedal is exactly centered under the steering column.

The steering wheel is much better than before, higher and further away from me. I'm catching it right on the heel of my palm, maybe 1" too far. The shifter is a bit of a reach into 5th but I think some tinkering with it could move all the gears toward me a half inch which will be fine. I have 3 more clicks rearward on the seat runners so a little space to move it back to get in/out. And even all the way back the seat is 2" clear of the cage's cross and diagonal bars.

I'm 5' 7" with a 30" inseam. My 5' 9" buddy could not drive the car before because his knees were pressed against the bottom of the steering wheel. It remains to be seen if he can now, will make him climb in next time he comes by. Hope that helps.

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Post  Rich L. Thu Feb 02, 2012 1:13 am

the office

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Post  Lemming Thu Feb 02, 2012 9:02 am

That's great news. Will you snap a pic of the rear of the seat in relation to the harness bar? Also can you measure from the very front bottom of the fire wall to the front of the tilton pedal set and post the measurement?

We appear be nearly similar in build, but I don't think I could reach the steering wheel with my seat pushed back any further that it already is. Of course, I'm not currently using the stock mounts and that may be the difference.
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