944Hybrids: 924/944/968 and 928 V8 Conversions
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HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Could someone check my plans for wiring the fuse block?

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Arthropraxis
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Could someone check my plans for wiring the fuse block? Empty Could someone check my plans for wiring the fuse block?

Post  Arthropraxis Thu May 12, 2011 4:17 pm

Could someone give me some feedback on this? The motor and computer are from a 2004 GTO that has the blue and green connectors. This is how I am going to wire the fuse block:

Switched Power
ignition 3 voltage C1 pin 19 Orange wire
Ignition 1 voltage Pink wire to heated O2 sensors
Fuel Injection and Ignition Control Module wire bank one Lt Green wire
Fuel Injection and Ignition Control Module wire bank two Red wire

Battery Power
Fuel pump relay
Orange battery positive voltage from C1 pins 20 and 57

I thought all orange wires went to battery positive.The schematics show the ignition 3 voltage going to a key source, that would make it switched right? That is where my confusion is.

Thanks, for any feedback.


Last edited by Arthropraxis on Fri May 13, 2011 8:21 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Admin Fri May 13, 2011 7:16 am

Fuel injection control wires are not the same as ignition wires. They should run directly to the injector from the computer. The second wire on the injectors should be a pink ignition wire.

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Post  Arthropraxis Fri May 13, 2011 8:31 am

The lt green and red wires go to the fuse block to power the ignition control module and fuel injectors. This is a 2004 GTO, in an F-body those would be Pink wires. What is confusing is the ignition 3 voltage wire being orange, I thought all the switched connections were Pink. The schematic shows it going to the ignition switch and being on in start, so it is obviously switched. Answered my own question.
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Post  Admin Fri May 13, 2011 8:27 pm

Post up the wiring diagram

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Post  Arthropraxis Fri May 13, 2011 11:45 pm

I got it sorted. The orange wire is switched voltage to the ECM and the injector voltage wires are green and red. On an F-body all of the mentioned wires would be pink. Going to wire it up tomorrow and install it in the car.
I am going to go with wiring the fans through the Porsche relay. From what I can tell the high/lo fan relay wires from the GM ECM should splice into the Porsche coolant temperature switch wires going to the Porsche fan relay. GM Hi speed to the RT/WS colored wire labeled TF on the fan relay. The low speed GM would splice to BR/GE wire going to TS on the Porsche fan relay. Is this correct?


Last edited by Arthropraxis on Sat May 14, 2011 9:15 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  Admin Sat May 14, 2011 8:04 am

I believe so

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Post  robstah Sun May 15, 2011 12:31 am

I am just copying what was done here:

http://www.lt1swap.com/fuseblock_obd2port.html

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Post  Arthropraxis Sun May 15, 2011 8:13 am

That is what I am doing, too. The confusion was with the different wire colors in the GTO harness. Between that writeup and Xschop's diagram it makes wiring the fuse block simple.

FYI, if anyone uses the relay holders he recommends on LT1swap.com the pigtails on them need larger gauge wires and regular connectors won't work. The connectors will have to be ordered from the link he provides to Mouser.com.
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Post  Arthropraxis Mon May 30, 2011 6:43 pm

Fuse block and Relays mostly wired. Now I need help getting the switched power and fuel pump from the Porsche fuse block. The fuse block is pulled up exposing the wires underneath.

Xchop's diagram shows switched power coming from a black/red wire. There are three black/red wires in that section of the fuse block. One is big 8ga or better, the other two are about 16ga. One of the 16ga wires is red with a black stripe the other is black with a red stripe. I know it is supposed to go to fuse 36 but I can't tell from underneath where the wires are going.

The fuel pump wire should be green with a black stripe. There are two. It looks like one is more toward the drivers side, hard to tell.

When the diagram says tie into those wires does that mean to expose some of the Porsche wire and connect to it or to cut the Porsche wire and tie in the new wire?
Thanks, for any help.
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Post  spence Mon May 30, 2011 7:00 pm

You can get to the fuel pump wire through the 14 pin connector that's in the engine bay; I cant remember the pin number. I tapped into the radio fuse with one of these.
Could someone check my plans for wiring the fuse block? Images10
Or you could test the voltage of those wires with and without the car in "run".
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Post  robstah Mon May 30, 2011 7:04 pm

Also check pin 7 on that 14 pin connector. Do it without the DME relay and see if you get switched power through it.

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Post  Arthropraxis Mon May 30, 2011 8:11 pm

Thanks, I have something like that fuse in my box now. I thought it was some sort of add on for a stereo or alarm system. I read that the pin in the 14 pin firewall connector that goes to the fuel pump does not get power with the DME relay removed. I don't have a battery in so I can't check switched power.
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Post  robstah Mon May 30, 2011 8:20 pm

Arthropraxis wrote:Thanks, I have something like that fuse in my box now. I thought it was some sort of add on for a stereo or alarm system. I read that the pin in the 14 pin firewall connector that goes to the fuel pump does not get power with the DME relay removed. I don't have a battery in so I can't check switched power.

The green and black wire goes to the fuel pump and does get energized by the DME relay. The thing is, if you are following the lt1swap relay bit, then you use this wire to go to the fuel pump. Here's the diagram (click image to see it all):

Could someone check my plans for wiring the fuse block? 8fuMh

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Post  Arthropraxis Mon May 30, 2011 8:42 pm

Yes, I copied the LT1swap.com fuse/relay block example. If that line does work for the fuel pump with the DME removed that will solve that issue, easily. Thanks.
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Post  xschop Mon May 30, 2011 8:53 pm

I used that same connector that Spence posted on Fuse #36 for the PCM relay.
Also Fuse #34 can also be bypassed and the fuel pump hot wire (green/blk)can be tapped into at the 14 pin connector directly at the firewall (Pin #4) as it is DEAD when there is NO FACTORY DME RELAY.
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Post  Arthropraxis Mon May 30, 2011 8:58 pm

This was posted by MichaelB on the old site

Switched 12VDC supply to turn on ECU can be pin #2 or #3 (on 14 pin).

Coolant temp "W" to pin 10 blu/small yel - "G" to pin 8 blu/ large yel (on 14 pin).

Oil pressure "WK" to pin 9 blu, "G" to 6 (on 14 pin).

Pin #4 on the 14 pin works for power to the fuel pump. You may remove fuse #34 to prevent feeding the power back to the DME relay.

The flat 7 or 8 pin connector under the dash pass side = #2 green/black tach signal.

The two pin under the hood large red/black is starter solinoid. The small blue is alt /light.

That reads as if you can get switched power from the 14 pin connector. That would just be too easy. So, probably won't work.
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Post  xschop Mon May 30, 2011 9:11 pm

Get rid of that POS factory DME, it'll leave you stranded.
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Post  robstah Mon May 30, 2011 9:25 pm

xschop wrote:Get rid of that POS factory DME, it'll leave you stranded.

I take it you mean the DME relay? Wink

Apparently Porsche changed the pin order on the 14 pin through out the 924/944/968 timeline. What I am reading though, is that pin 2 and pin 3 go to terminal 87 of the DME relay. Pin 7 goes to the "ignition lock terminal 50". If someone can verify that this pin is switched power, then we have our answer. All I know is that if I can make a harness without modifying whats already there, then I am a happy camper.

I will admit, I've seen threads about the 14 pin connector and how it went from providing everything to providing only wires for the oil pressure and temperature. The best thing you can do is actually test it. I think Porsche had the idea of "red and black stripe = accessory power". It seems like common sense to me.

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Post  Arthropraxis Mon May 30, 2011 9:28 pm

I already pulled the DME and have a relay for the fuel pump. The problem is telling which wires to splice into from under the fuse box. I don't want to butcher the wiring too much. If I can pull it out of the 14 pin harness it would be easier.

I need to hookup a battery and test the 14 pin harness.
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Post  xschop Mon May 30, 2011 9:37 pm

Yes, toss the DME relay. All you need is a jumper on fuze #36 for the new PCM relay and splice into the fuel pump wire at the 14 pin connector.
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Post  robstah Mon May 30, 2011 9:44 pm

Alright, after looking through the wiring diagrams again, pin 7 is during cranking only. As mentioned above, the best bet is grabbing off of fuse 36.

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Post  Arthropraxis Mon May 30, 2011 10:02 pm

Thanks. The people who did it off the 14 pin harness must have kept the DME.
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Post  xschop Mon May 30, 2011 10:09 pm

Also if you do keep the DME relay and have a factroy alarm, you could have problems down the road.
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Post  spence Tue May 31, 2011 4:52 am

Arthropraxis wrote:Thanks. The people who did it off the 14 pin harness must have kept the DME.

Nope... I pulled it. When you pull the DME it kills the power to the fuel pump (and what ever else it runs), so what you're basically doing is adding a relay to supply that wire with power once again.
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Post  Arthropraxis Tue May 31, 2011 6:59 am

Right, I can use my relay to power the fuel pump. I won't be able to use the 14pin firewall harness to get switched power to my main relay for the motor harness because I pulled the DME. I will have to piggy back it on the radio fuse.
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