HOW TO DO AN ADVANCED SEARCH.

Mon Jul 08, 2013 3:56 pm by Admin


For the benefit of 944Hybrids users there are two search functions available for you to use.
The purpose of this sticky is to explain the "Advanced Search" function because it is much more powerful and is the best choice when researching information.

When you log on to the site a list of options is shown in a line at the top of the page. One option is labelled "Search", use this option (NOT the search box lower down on the right).

After you click on the upper search option, a drop down box appears. At the bottom of this box is a radio button marked "Advanced …

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Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  944-LT1 on Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:44 pm

Happens to me all the time. Laughing

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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  Porch on Tue Mar 15, 2011 10:09 am

[sigh]

Back to the top. The clutch works pretty well when it's cold, but once it gets some heat into it, it just seems like it needs another mm or two to get a full release. I'm 99.9% certain that i've gotten all the air out of it (after driving it for a few weeks, i'd think the air bubbles would rise up the remote bleeder and be really easy to get out). I've bled it 4-5 times since adding the remote speed bleeder.

At this point i think i'm probably just hitting the stops on the slave, unless someone else has an idea to try. I'm going to get under there and measure everything, but not without a shim in hand.

Where do i get shims?
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  xschop on Tue Mar 15, 2011 10:24 am

What is the T.O. bearing part# ?
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  944-LT1 on Tue Mar 15, 2011 2:54 pm

Have you tried adjusting the pushrod above the clutch pedal?

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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  Porch on Tue Mar 15, 2011 3:24 pm

@xschop, D951004, i believe? I found an old picture of it before i installed it: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

@944-LT1: Are you talking about the assist spring, or the m/c pushrod itself? I have messed with the m/c pushrod a fair amount, and i made sure that the system was able to gravity bleed (the internal hole was uncovered). I've also had someone hold the pedal at the floor, then i adjusted the rod to make the piston travel all the way to the end of the m/c bore (thinking maybe there was an air bubble there). No luck.

This car has a plastic clutch pedal arm (!!) so i can't relocate the m/c pin to a lower spot and get more travel.

I just figure with a 7/8" m/c (not the stock 3/4") it shouldn't matter if i'm missing a mm of travel or have a small air bubble in there somewhere, right?!?

Sorry, this has been a frustrating problem for a while now. RH swears i just need to bleed it. I have their HD pressure plate and kevlar disc. I drove my dad's stock 944 n/a and realized how bad mine is.
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  944-LT1 on Tue Mar 15, 2011 3:36 pm

Hmm. Looks like youve covered all the bases. Gonna suck but looks like its time to measure for a shim. No

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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  xschop on Tue Mar 15, 2011 4:02 pm

How deep is the adapter plate machined below the BH mating plane?

Also that D951004 is a F-body TO bearing (T56 BH depth is different than C5 BH) and crosses with GM#15046288

GM# 12562767 is the C5 TO bearing. I always wondered if the catch arms and throw length on the bearings were different between the two. FWIW I would make sure a C5 TO bearing is used unless the two were dissected and compared. I read that the F-bodies had an updated TO due to orifice constriction causing clutch problems.......my $0.02
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  Porch on Tue Mar 15, 2011 5:58 pm

I'm not sure how much recess is built into the plate, it came assembled.

I saw something on the Tick site about the f-body slaves. That sucks that it's an F-body slave, i thought it was a C5.

If the slave was pushed all the way out to the stops, but the pedal still had travel, where would the extra fluid go?
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  acorad on Tue Mar 15, 2011 6:06 pm

Porch wrote:I think another part of it is that i just need to get used to the fact that these aren't quick-shifting transmissions, and that rev-matching may be necessary for down-shifting.
fwiw, I also was a less-than-satisfied with the shifting in my conversion.

I found myself having to blip the throttle on downshifts - but also every time I up-shifted, if you can believe that, just to make a smooth shift - which I attributed at first to my lightweight Fidanza fly wheel losing rpms between shifts.

Then I discovered a second, inner, rubber shifter boot under the outer leather boot, and my inner boot was all torn up and bunching up around the shift lever and causing really slow shifts.

Not really sure what the heck that that inner boot is supposed to do, but I removed it.

Anyway, I still have to blip the throttle occasionally on up shifts, which I attribute the Fidanza flywheel (anyone want to buy a LW Fidanza FW w/less than 10k miles on it?) but I don't have to blip nearly as much as before.
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Downshifting

Post  fliermike45 on Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:24 pm

Real drivers double de-clutch their down shifts and blip throttle to sync the gears!!!

Could be you have weak synchros.

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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  xschop on Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:33 pm

I can honestly say that this has been one of the quickest shifting 944's I've owned and I have the Fidanza Flywheel installed.

If RH is sending out that F-Body TO bearing with a C5 bellhousing and they didn't confirm the exact dimensions (seating and extension), fluid port design and Volumetric capacity between the two...then they didn't do their homework. There's $0.03
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Master

Post  kevin924kevin on Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:44 pm

So which master is the best for the clutch set up? thoughts?
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  xschop on Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:53 pm

13/16" Wilwood compact. 7/8" if you like a firmer pedal. Both will ensure disengagement even at high RPM.
Wrong depth of TO bearing interface on the C5 adapter plate, or wrong (short) throw of the TO and you'll have clutch problems.
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  laptop_geek on Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:30 pm

acorad wrote:

Then I discovered a second, inner, rubber shifter boot under the outer leather boot, and my inner boot was all torn up and bunching up around the shift lever and causing really slow shifts.

Not really sure what the heck that that inner boot is supposed to do, but I removed it.

Porsche put it on there to keep the water/elements/sound out from that area. There is also a sound deadening foam that was placed below that by Porsche that does the same thing. On my car both are gone and I can notice that the shifter boot will heat up (nothing serious) after I've been driving a little while.
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  acorad on Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:35 pm

fliermike45 wrote:Real drivers double de-clutch their down shifts and blip throttle to sync the gears!!!

Could be you have weak synchros.
Could be, I sure hope not. I've never had a car with weak synchros so I really don't know what the symptoms are.

All of what I've been describing and all of what I write below is during very sedate, lazy, low rpm driving, like when I drive my kids to school. When I'm driving "with purpose" everything is smooth as honey.

So, that said...

I blip on the downshift, for example, when going into slower bends so that the transition is smooth, ie., I blip and match the revs such that there's no herky-jerky to the passengers when the clutch engages.

There is no crunch if I don't blip, just herky-jerky as the engine gets spun up to a much higher rpm when I let out the clutch on the downshift and the engine starts braking at a much higher rate due to the lower gear.

I blip (only occasionally, now that I removed that inner boot) on upshifts because the rpm's have sometimes have dropped between gears too much for a smooth shift, ie., during the shift the revs have dropped far enough below what the revs will be in the next higher gear such that it makes for a herky-jerky shift.

There is no gear crunch on up-shifts, whether or not I blip the throttle.

I have been attributing all that above to the Fidanza LW FW losing revs too quickly, and the bunched-up inner shift boot interfering with the shift lever movement and making for too-slow shifts. I'd be very interested to know if these symptoms are due to weak synchros.

1st and reverse gears do crunch a little, occasionally. The others not at all.

Am describing bad synchros? Symptoms of a LW FW? Both? something else?
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  acorad on Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:43 pm

Thanks laptop.
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Shifting

Post  fliermike45 on Tue Mar 15, 2011 9:31 pm

Another thing that may help is a short shifter kit. It changes the geometry of the shifter back on the transmission. It cuts down the throw on the shifter up front.

I have installed one on my tranny but have yet to re-install it in the car.

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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  Porch on Wed Mar 16, 2011 10:02 am

Thanks for the responses guys. If i rev-match the problem lessens, but it's not a cure (nor should it be necessary, that's why i have syncros).

I have a short shifter installed and i have had two transaxles in the car (one 951, and now my AOR). Pretty certain it's not a transaxle problem. Both transaxles have had Swepco in them.

Where can i get shims?
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  xschop on Wed Mar 16, 2011 10:19 am

This place sells them in 0.125"....
0.125"..... $12
0.050"..... $7

Ask for Jason
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  Arthropraxis on Wed Mar 16, 2011 12:09 pm

A shim came with my Spec clutch so I am sure they sell them
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  laptop_geek on Wed Mar 16, 2011 1:41 pm

How can one tell what HTOB he is using?
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  Porch on Fri May 06, 2011 10:27 pm

FINALLY got this fixed!

So here's the deal. I talked to someone at Tick performance and they said that the F-body and the C5 slaves have the same travel distance. They then asked if i had an adjustable slave, and said that with an adjustable slave i should be able to release any clutch on the market.

And that's where i was screwing up....

On a brake master cylinder, you can't cover up the hole from the reservoir because the pads wear and it's necessary to draw more fluid in. This isn't the case on a clutch master cylinder. Once the system is fully bled, there is no wear on the system so you don't need the reservoir hole to be exposed. That means you can adjust the pushrod in or out of the system to adjust the pressure on the clutch, change the release point, etc.

All i needed to do was unscrew the adjustable rod from the pedal a little bit (pushing the plunger deeper into the master) and voila! I now get full release on the clutch.

After 3 years, that's all it really took! [sigh]
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  laptop_geek on Fri May 06, 2011 10:35 pm

Porch wrote:FINALLY got this fixed!

So here's the deal. I talked to someone at Tick performance and they said that the F-body and the C5 slaves have the same travel distance. They then asked if i had an adjustable slave, and said that with an adjustable slave i should be able to release any clutch on the market.

And that's where i was screwing up....

On a brake master cylinder, you can't cover up the hole from the reservoir because the pads wear and it's necessary to draw more fluid in. This isn't the case on a clutch master cylinder. Once the system is fully bled, there is no wear on the system so you don't need the reservoir hole to be exposed. That means you can adjust the pushrod in or out of the system to adjust the pressure on the clutch, change the release point, etc.

All i needed to do was unscrew the adjustable rod from the pedal a little bit (pushing the plunger deeper into the master) and voila! I now get full release on the clutch.

After 3 years, that's all it really took! [sigh]

Didn't think about that. Good info to know. Thanks for posting it!
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  acorad on Sat May 07, 2011 9:18 am

Porch wrote:
All i needed to do was unscrew the adjustable rod from the pedal a little bit (pushing the plunger deeper into the master) and voila! I now get full release on the clutch.

After 3 years, that's all it really took! [sigh]
Congrats! Better than 4 years! :-)
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Re: Clutch slave remote speed bleeder

Post  Porch on Sat May 07, 2011 12:14 pm

Could always be worse i guess Smile

I knew i was doing something stupid, it was just frustrating not knowing what it was. Oh well, just in time for summer!
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