Tilton Dual MC Setup

Rob, More good stuff. Let me know when you've got a deliverable piece.

I got the billet housing planed at just the right angle so the dual MC's mimic the stock MC....



I left the right angles on the ends in case I or some other nut wants to put biasing valves on each MC...LOL



The design pays off...almost 3" away from the coil bodies....



And I'm more happy that the Hooker 2312 modded header clears by almost 2.5" as well....
Looks like there is crazy room for a homemade heat shield....



I am going to design the adjustable pushrod tomorrow that goes directly from the Porsche Clevis to the Tilton Heim joint. The only thing I may wind up doing is trimming 3/4" from the individual MC pushrods if there is not enough room for adjustment between clevis and heim...Other than that, it's all she wrote.

Beautiful work. That is going to look great in my car.

The Wilwood compacts come with 2 sizes of reservoirs and a remote system....piece of cake there.

Any reinforcing of the firewall needed? It looks like the mounting plate would be enough. Not that I would have a clue.

Firewall cracking is a known 924-944-968 issue. You may want to think about this while you have the firewall stripped.

""""Yup had to weld 1/16" plate steel over my firewall where the clutch/master went in. I did my Hulk impression and tore the clutch master out of the firewall while driving it one day""""

Did you simply stick on the stock MC with a custom pushrod?
I would think going to dual MC's would alleviate the stress. I am using 1/4" thick wall plate with 1.5" washers on the back side.

I don't foresee any problem. The far driver's side bolt may take more pressure than the opposite side bolt by default, but the thickness of the plate distributes the forces to all 3 bolts almost equally.

Do you have pics of what you did?
Shortly, I will be making the custom plates and pushrods for the stock MC to bolt to the Cereal bowl also.

Very nice....

That's quite a setup, very nice!

6 hours dismantling, drilling the clevis relocation 1" higher and then doing some drawings for the best set-up on the push rod conversion piece needed.
I don't EVER want to tear out that brake pedal and try reinstalling that friggin' return spring again. What a PITA.
O.K., gripe dept. closed....
There are a few different ways of doing the pushrod, but whichever way you want to do it, I had mic'd out that the Tilton 72-650 heim center to 944 pedal pushrod clevis center should be exactly 125mm from each other for the Tilton assembly to be in relaxed position and clear the firewall. Also my Wilwood MC pushrods had to be trimmed down 1/2" to attach properly in their relaxed positions.
Heres what the pushrod should look like for the easiest swap. Keep in mind that for optimum adjustment the Tilton 3/8 x 24 Male Heim that comes with the Dual MC Housing assembly should have it's centerbore (+ or -) 1/8" from the firewall sheet metal......

This will put you right on the money with some forward and aft adjustment. Which got me thinking since these cars are all "hand made"...How far off if any, are the brake mounting bracket points from car to car....

dumb question.....3 lines from the stock MC....where they all go? looks like 2 cam off the fat side of the original mc housing and 1 from the skinnier mc bore....

2 for each front and 1 for both rears