brake pedal arm modification

Did anyone manage to save the instructions for this? In particular, I'm looking for instructions on how to remove the pedal arm. I can see a pivot rod under there, with one of those sheetmetal clips on one end. How much of the pedal cluster do I need to remove to just take out the brake pedal arm?

I've finished mounting a Wilwood MC on a custom plate, and am having my machine shop shorten the rod. I'd like to drill a new hole higher than the original, but I've searched through this site and the "old" one and can't seem to find the diagrams/discussions.

Thanks,
Ross.

Sawz-all with a 24T metal blade always makes things easier to remove

Here's an exploded view...

I didnt have the master cylinder installed so I just went ahead and removed that clip, the pin pushes back, via wiggling the pedal out, then just twisted the pedal off its spring, bam, brake pedal removed... one of the easiest things ive done on the car.
the pin goes all the way down to the other side of the clutch pedal, to get a center line of the brake pedal on the firewall I pushed the pin back and installed the pedal so it stuck through the firewall lol.

From the RH instructions:
Inside the car under the dash, you will have to locate on the brake pedal, the pin that retains the clevis pivot pin. Remove it and slide out the clevis pin, which will allow the booster push rod to be loose from the pedal.
3. Next, under the firewall insulation there is three (3) nuts that retain the booster to the firewall. These nuts need to be removed.
4. Remove over center spring from clutch pedal by removing clip and slipping clevis off pedal (caution: spring is under pressure!) Also remove throttle cable while under dash.
5. Now that the booster is loose, remove it. At the bench, carefully remove the clevis on the end of the push rod and the clevis jam nut. Retain these for future installation.

Next step, while you are under the dash bolting the mount in place find the pedal pivot and spring. The pedal has to beremoved, and the pivot hole where the clevis pin goes through is going to be re-drilled ¾ of an inch up (toward the pivot).
2. The pedal should be on the bench now. If the pedal is hollow, a sleeve will have to be welded into the pedal to accommodate this procedure. We have specific instructions for those of you that this pertains to. We will continue with the solid pedal instructions.
3. Measure from the center of the old clevis pivot hole (not the pedal pivot) up toward the pedal pivot ¾ inch. Mark that with a punch in the center of the pedal. Identify the old pivot hole size, and use that size, drill the pedal straight and true. Clean the newly drilled hole of any burrs and ensure that the clevis pin passes through freely.

Thanks everyone - this should get me where I want to go.

Perfect, I apparently have one of those awesome hollow pedals. How this thing stops the car I don't know, but I apparently need to follow those "other" procedures. Oh well, I guess I'll look for the right size sleeve and get my bro to bring his mig welder.

I found this part S99NH2MBN1312 on sdp-si.com for about $5. It's got the 10mm ID to match the stock clevis pin, and according to my measurements is *just* long enough to go all the way through the hollow brake pedal. It's hardened steel, but it might work. I wonder how far off this is from those "other" procedures to deal with hollow pedals.

Why not just buy an early pedal?

Last time I put the sleeve in the hollow peddle, I just made it a press fit and lightly brazed it in place. There is not enough room to weld it. You will end up grinding all of your weld off to get the clevis to fit again.
Just my 2 cent.

Couldn't find an early pedal easily online. Do you have a suggested source?

endrnet wrote:S99NH2MBN1312 on sdp-si.com .

That number is a needle bearing??? Don't use that...
If you are trying to keep the hollow pedal; you need a brass(464) bushing or a drill bushing like http://www.mcmaster.com/#8486a89/=3oad8a and don't put too much heat on that pedal when brazing or welding... I would suggest getting a solid pedal instead.

948 wrote:

endrnet wrote:S99NH2MBN1312 on sdp-si.com .

That number is a needle bearing??? Don't use that...
If you are trying to keep the hollow pedal; you need a brass(464) bushing or a drill bushing like http://www.mcmaster.com/#8486a89/=3oad8a and don't put too much heat on that pedal when brazing or welding... I would suggest getting a solid pedal instead.

Hmm, my cut/paste didn't work as expected, how about this direct link?

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail.asp?Opener=Group&PartID=49456&GroupID=56

Sintered Bronze 10mm ID, 20mm long, 16mm outside, $2.71 instead of the $20 drill sleeve from carr. I'd have to cut it, but it's bronze, and it's cheap.

As for the solid pedal, sounds like a great idea if I could find one. All my searches turn up rubber pedal pads, bushings, etc, no pedal arms, probably because they don't generally fail.

EDIT: I called a couple Porsche dealers. The early solid pedal comes from Germany, no US stock, and is about $100, plus several weeks. Salvage has them for about $110 shipped. Funny thing these porsches..

rookie move! search ebay theres a buy it now for like 25 bucks. geez.

endrnet wrote:[Sintered Bronze....and it's cheap.

The word "Cheap" should never be used when talking about braking components. Also, sintered bronze is quite weak, KSI of ~14. Steel or naval brass would be a better choice, KSI >60.

You've got 23 hours, buy it now.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-944-turbo-924S-Gas-Clutch-Brake-Pedal-Assembly_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4999Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem2302e3c238QQitemZ150372336184QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

948 wrote:

endrnet wrote:[Sintered Bronze....and it's cheap.

The word "Cheap" should never be used when talking about braking components. Also, sintered bronze is quite weak, KSI of ~14. Steel or naval brass would be a better choice, KSI >60.

You've got 23 hours, buy it now.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-944-turbo-924S-Gas-Clutch-Brake-Pedal-Assembly_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4999Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem2302e3c238QQitemZ150372336184QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I have a question to the seller about whether it's hollow. Hard to tell in pic, but on first glance it looked hollow to me.

KSI is 1000psi, right? So you're saying that I can make over 14000psi on the pedal bushing/clevis pin into the MC? With my foot?

948 wrote:You've got 23 hours, buy it now.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-944-turbo-924S-Gas-Clutch-Brake-Pedal-Assembly_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4999Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem2302e3c238QQitemZ150

Dude,
For $25 bucks I may buy & resell it...(I'll make you a schweet deal).

endrnet wrote:So you're saying that I can make over 14000psi....With my foot?

Yes.....it is quite easy.

Did you buy the solid pedal on Ebay?

Yes the peer pressure got the better of me, but just for grins I also bought a hardened steel inner race bearing to modify the hollow. My brother lent me his mig welder, and I am learning to weld with it, this seems like an interesting opportunity to learn how various metals can be welded before I go for the exhaust.

Check out German Auto Dismantlers, I think I paid 22 bucks or so for an early solid pedal. Quick shipment too, I love ebay, but would rather deal with a company first.

I generally would too, however if you don't show up in the first 5 pages of a google search, your company might not exist... welcome to the modern age!

I was able to get a good weld on my hollow pedal. Yes, you have to grind the weld down to make it fit back...but if you get proper penetration, that shouldn't matter!!

I got a solid early brake pedal and drilled it .75 in higher. I could not find a 10mm drill bit so I used a 7/16 which is 11.11mm, so there is some gap around the pin. Is it ok to have a little gap around the pin?
Another question. The brake pedal clevis for the power brake is wider than the manual brake arm, do I just fabricate some plastic spacers to make it a tighter fit? Or can I leave it as is?
Thanks for any help. Once I finish this the steering wheel and seat can go back in. The interior will then be done and I can start installing the motor. I finally feel like I am moving forward.

Arthropraxis: I could not find a 10mm drill bit so I used a 7/16 which is 11.11mm, so there is some gap around the pin. Is it ok to have a little gap around the pin?

You are looking at a .044" difference in diameter. This means there is .022" of play back and forth at the clevis pivot. This extra play will cause the pedal to feel sloppy and the pin to wear. How much and how fast this wear will happen, I don't know. But because I didn't know, it would bother my OCD mind to heck! You could get a piece of 10mm id steel tubeing to make a bushing and redrill the pedal so that bushing has a compliance fit. This may take some reaming and filling but no welding should be required

That is what I decided to do. Thanks, for your input.

Or you could drill out the clevis to 7/16 and find a 7/16 pin somewhere.